Anybody leave their Gamo mags loaded ?
And has anybody had any problems in doing so?
22 cal.

This is a question for you machinists and fabricators out there. Can this be re soldered or could I replace this copper line by soldering a new one into the existing fittings. The close up shows where I cracked the line taking the gun apart. It’s going to be a pain to try to get a new assembly from fx in Sweden and hope it survives shipping unscathed and fits a 10 year old gun properly. I was told by a dealer that it’s probably time for a new gun, because even if I get it all back together it won’t be the same as it was.

I'm looking into buying a moderator from Donny fl for my airicuda standard 25 Cal. I've melted off locktite from end cap and I'm ready to go.

I'm interested in the new yokozuna from Donny fl (sorry if I spelled that wrong) and I wanted to know if i should buy the 25 Cal version or a size up in the 30 cal version for my 25 Cal?

Also sould I buy the new adapter for airicuda from Donny fl with the whole baffle system? Or will I be ok just buying the regular adapter they make that just screws in?

Appreciate it anybody had an idea bout this.

Anyone know where I can find a re seal kit for a gladiator mk2 in the US. Plenty of options from the UK but I was hoping for something a little closer to home.

I have been looking for information on this 1938B Red Ryder w/Walnut Stock and Medalion. Can't seem to find any information.I purchased this in the late 80s. Any information as to the rarity or value would be very helpful.
Thank you for your assistance!

Does anyone have experience with Trimax Air Rifles?

Anyone ever convert one to a bottle?

Got the Huben GK1, .25, V3, Unregulated.

Had some air in it, and loaded in the pellets. Went to do a test shot, and it emptied out all of the air, and now I cannot shoot, pellet is jammed (I assume), and I can't rotate the magazine any more. (That is also jammed).

Why did it empty out the gas? How can I fix the jam? Any insight?

Pellets were seneca, .25 cal

Hey everyone new member here in Tasmania Australia im about to purchase a .25 cal fx dynamic express 700mm and just wondering what people are finding is the heaviest slug they can shoot with standard rifle , at roughly what reg pressure , velocity and shot count ?

Does anyone have a low power Advanced setting for the .25 caliber 25 grain pellets? The "factory settings" are way off, and so is the Advanced 2526 setting. Both start off shooting well over 1000 fps and telling me that I need 175b regulator to shoot the 25g pellets at 860 fps (which is absurd).

I am interested in getting the edgun peazy fill system and it mentions that it will fit any 8mm fill probe...but I can't find any info on what size fill probe the huben gk1 takes. I measured it with my calipers and it came in under 8mm. Are edgun leshi 2 probes and the gk1 compatible? It also said you can swap the prob out for a foster fitting...but the one I got to test doesn't fit the huben probe (luckily it was only a few dollars). Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks

I own an Alpha wolf almost a year.
I have an issue with velocity.

I choose for example 22CAL 18.13grain 23"Barrel and 900 fps and the rifle shoots 800fps.
I double checked the velocity with an external Crono.

I changed both external O rings at the transfer port and the one smaller in the barrel. still same results.

Any suggestions that would be useful? I run out of ideas and daystate sents me back at the seller.

Thank you in advance

Hello everyone!

I am new to this forum and new to creating airgun valves in general. My apologizes if this post is not in the right place.

After giving a few attempts at my own design I was hoping that someone with more experience would be able to help me out.

To give some background, I am trying to create what I believe is called a poppet valve that is used with standard 800 psi CO2 cartages. I have limited capabilities in my shop and I want the design to have some forgiveness to lose tolerances and to use as many of the shelf parts as possible. My current version of the valve (depicted below) has only lasted a few cartridges before it starts to leak. All the parts of the valve are not included, but it should get the point across. I believe that the material used for my piston seal (part 3) and/or the adhesive that I'm using to attach it to part 2 may be the problem.

I have been using 1/32" thick, shore A 60 hardness, EDPM rubber for part 3. I am adhering it to part 2 with permabond 105 which is great for "difficult" rubbers like EDPM. I originally chose EDPM because I thought was that it needed to withstand cold temps when rapid firing. But after some testing, I believe the the seal is becoming damaged after only a few uses. After some more research I have been seeing that shore A 80 polyurethane may be used here instead due to its ability to withstand many compression/decompression cycles? But this is my main question... what is typically used here? Also, is there a better design that would allow me to remove the adhesive all together? Or is using adhesive fine? I have seen designs where the piston (part 4) is made out of derlin and there is no seal or adhesive, but I am trying to use a common part there instead of something custom. It is currently is an off the shelf threaded standoff... McMaster-Carr part "91125A339".

I have used two materials for part (2). The first was steel. I later tried nylon which i found to have ample strength and better adhesion to the seal (part 3) when using the permabond 105. It is also much easier to drill.

My next material choice for part 3 would be shore A 80 polyurethane, 1/16" thick and I plan to use permabond 105 again. Any insight on these choices would be greatly appreciated. I am also open to design changes that remove the adhesive altogether, but I'd like to keep the same form factor and not make any more custom parts. Currently only parts 2 and 3 are custom and they are very easy to make.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Just found out my bobcat mk1 regulator is leaking an it seems to be the internal seals (o-rings) on the reg, does anyone know where I can buy these seals internationally or what the sizes are, I've included a picture of the regulator that is installed in this PCP

Repairing a Crosman M1, does anyone know the size difference in the Barrel Lock Spring? One fits the wood stock and the other fits the cross wood stock. I have a wood stock and have a spring from the croswood stock but it is to long for the barrel to be cocked.

How do you degas a FX T12 Whisper .22?

Why don't they make solid (non-HP) slugs in .25 and .30 calibers? I found a few but the calibers are just a hair larger (.257 & .308) than I can use.

Will the Fx impact regulator fit in the Panthera? I installed the extra high pressure Huma regulator and the recharge is very fast. The issue is the regulator drops in pressure over a period of time after shots and can’t hold the set pressure. For example I set the reg to 155bar and after a couple magazines it is at 152 bar with 170bar left on the fill. The stock regulator re charge was extremely slow but eventually got to set pressure. The stock regulator eventually creeped about eight bars higher then held that pressure. My idea was to get the impact high pressure regulator vs extra high so it had a bit softer springs to help the regulator recharge to my set pressure.

So I'm awaiting delivery of a fan-cooled and internal water tank-cooled air compressor and am wondering if I can leave the water tank (which I plan to fill with a 50:50 mix of distilled water & Water Wetter) filled between uses or if it is recommended to empty it. Thx!

So I'm awaiting delivery of a fan-cooled and internal water tank-cooled air compressor and am wondering if I can leave the water tank (which I plan to fill with a 50:50 mix of distilled water & Water Wetter) filled between uses or if it is recommended to empty it. Thx!

Does anyone have any experience with these regulators? I'm assuming it's top quality coming from Huben, but any knowledge of them being used on the notos? I'm contemplating getting one along with a .2l cf bottle.

Here's a pic of the notos currently.

I recently cleaned and greased my old Slavia 631 and after i reassambled it it would sometimes fire when i took it of the safety
Without pulling the trigger

Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and starting off with an odd question.

Can anyone tell me if the factory Impact M3 has any magnets in its build, especially the rear butt/block section?... Or the magazine?

I need to stay clear of magnets for medical reasons, hence the weird question.

Considering buying an M3.

I know some aftermarket bits do, but interested in the factory build.

Thanks!

Anyone know a good place to send a Benjamin 422 for repair. They are tricky to work on and wondering if there’s someone who specializes in rebuilding them

3 or 4 weeks ago, I bought a 700mm heavy .30 liner and have been working out various slugs (bought and cast) without much luck. I initially had decent grouping with 54gr Zan, but it faded away quickly. Since then, I have tried almost every manufactured variant I can find, ordered casting molds in different weights, tried different alloys, all sorts of tuning adjustments, and epoxied a carbon fiber sleeve on with no luck. I recall seeing some people talking about it taking a few hundred shots to smooth out the barrel and grooves, so figured i just needed to shoot it more.

Well, I've got through a ton of ammo and it seems more like the accuracy is dropping off as the shot count goes up, so I figured I would take a closer look at the liner bore to see if thats where the troubles were coming from. I'm seeing quite a few blemishes along the grooves, spots that look like little divets that go all the way around the ID of the lands, and what looks like a straight seam down the length of the ID. Ive gone through it a few times with JB paste, and even Flitz to see if i can get it to help clean it up with no real change.
Take a look (albeit the pictures I've taken aren't exactly the greatest, and definition of the spots isn't as apparent on them) and tell me what you think. I'm also pushing slugs out of the barrel at .2962-.2964", with slugs pushed halfway and backed out measuring a more standard .2989-2990". Most of the worst pitting is within the last 2" getting closer to the choke. I have been wondering how this liner gets dirty so quickly, but now it seems that these spots are scooping bits of lead from slugs and pellets. Is this just a bad barrel? It's been frustrating me since I can't use this rifle until I know I can make responsible and accurate shots. The original .30 liner that came with appears nearly perfect, so I'm guessing either the choke side of the jig or the liner blank itself had nasty bits stuck to it before it was formed.