Hi is there anybody out there that could possibly help me out with understanding why when I start filling my gun air leaks out the barrel? And Ive done it while I have it cocked as well.

when I have the lever back air shoots out the mag well side as well as the front of barrel.

O rings seem to be all in I did have a problem with my valve pin but I epoxyd and taped my valve pin back together and it seems to be working as it sould I just can't get a fill.

When I turn my power adjuster down (jts airicuda standard) the air seems to move slower thru the barrel. It's almost like the air is just passing right thru the gun how can that be? Anyone?

Is it allowed to post in rifles for sale. I am not a salesman. Just may sell one or two of my PCP rifles

In Knoxville Tennessee for a couple days anyone know of a good air gun dealer?

Hello guys,
I just bought a new revere .177 from aoa,
And after first tank I realized the sound of the rifle changed,
Upon inspection a portion of o-ring that holds the transfer port in place was sticking out just under the barrel breach port!!!
Called Aoa and they said it happens after every 600 or shots!!!
They are sending me some spare o-rings and if that won’t work,
I can send the rifle back to Aoa,
Now my question to all u guys who use these pcp’s
Since this is my first ever pcp,
Why manufacturer has this portion shaved off at the entrance bottom part of the barrel port which is letting the o-ring slip out under pressure???

I own a sidewinder compact in .25 cal got it new about 3 months ago and the magazine locking pin is really stiff even with the magazine removed and no tension on it its still stiff when you lock it to the rear. Is there a fix to make it a bit easier and smoother to manipulate?

I am just wondering what everyone is having success shooting through the Gauntlet 2. So far mine like the JSB jumbo monster redesigned in 25.39. I am wanting some slugs to shoot and look for feedback on what success y'all having!!

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to purchase an Acecare 9L tank from Alibaba and equip it with the HP3 Omega valve. I also want to add a 2-meter swiveling kit connection hose from Best Fittings. I'll include pictures at the end for reference.

Main Concern​

The HP3 valve comes with a male nipple for filling the tank and connecting the hose. However, the Best Fittings swiveling kit features a "BEST Fittings 1/8″ BSP Snap Connector" designed to fit an existing 1/8″ BSP DIN cylinder outlet.

Question​

If I remove the male nipple from the HP3 valve, will the outlet fit the snap connector from Best Fittings?

Additionally, my local air filling shop uses either a female or male DIN 300 outlet. Best Fittings offers a 300 BAR DIN Female to BEST Fittings Quick Coupler Socket, which I plan to connect to the end of the hose if I can install the kit.

Also, what is the purpose and size thread of the 7.5k screw in the valve? can this also be used with a hose/kit?

Any advice or insights would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
@Billions


link to product list:
https://www.bestfittings.co.uk/shop/fill-lines-fittings/fittings/swivelling-quick-detach-hose-kit/

Has anyone swapped out their OEM bottle on their AEA SF version for carbon fiber bottle? If so, pics and where can I get the adapter please?

Hello everyone!
i would like to know about type of glass and prisam used in side shoot scop mount?

Does it matter what pressure I set the tethered pressure at on my RAW HM1000x? I am guessing the bottle reg is set to 140-150 bar on my .25 cal so can I set any pressure above that or will there be a tuning difference with different pressures? The way I am looking at it is the tethered tank is basically just extending the tank on the rifle so as long as the pressure is above the reg pressure on the rifle there should be no difference.

I just purchased a Hatsan Mod 130s vortex .30 cal
Can anyone recommend a lower profile cheek riser?

Today I was shooting my new Wildcat MkIII bt vp and had what seems to be some sort of major malfunction. I was casually shooting some different types of ammo to see which one my gun likes the best. I have maybe 300 rounds through it total since I got it last week. Today I got about 100 rounds through it, then refilled to try out the FX 50 gr diabolo pellets. I shot about 9 through it. They were grouping very nicely at 50 yards. Then I chambered a new pellet, aimed at my target, and fired. The round flew high and right about 5 inches from the previous group and the shot made a slightly different sound than usual. I also felt a small puff of air on my cheek. When I went to cock the gun again, the charging lever will neither come back fully, nor go forward fully, and the mag seems to be jammed in the gun. I have not touched it since, as I don't want to do anything that would void the warranty. I will also note that I have never fooled with either of the regulators, as I just got it and was trying to find the best ammo for it before I toyed with any tuning. Does anyone have any idea what may be going on here???

Anybody leave their Gamo mags loaded ?
And has anybody had any problems in doing so?
22 cal.

This is a question for you machinists and fabricators out there. Can this be re soldered or could I replace this copper line by soldering a new one into the existing fittings. The close up shows where I cracked the line taking the gun apart. It’s going to be a pain to try to get a new assembly from fx in Sweden and hope it survives shipping unscathed and fits a 10 year old gun properly. I was told by a dealer that it’s probably time for a new gun, because even if I get it all back together it won’t be the same as it was.

I'm looking into buying a moderator from Donny fl for my airicuda standard 25 Cal. I've melted off locktite from end cap and I'm ready to go.

I'm interested in the new yokozuna from Donny fl (sorry if I spelled that wrong) and I wanted to know if i should buy the 25 Cal version or a size up in the 30 cal version for my 25 Cal?

Also sould I buy the new adapter for airicuda from Donny fl with the whole baffle system? Or will I be ok just buying the regular adapter they make that just screws in?

Appreciate it anybody had an idea bout this.

Anyone know where I can find a re seal kit for a gladiator mk2 in the US. Plenty of options from the UK but I was hoping for something a little closer to home.

I have been looking for information on this 1938B Red Ryder w/Walnut Stock and Medalion. Can't seem to find any information.I purchased this in the late 80s. Any information as to the rarity or value would be very helpful.
Thank you for your assistance!

Does anyone have experience with Trimax Air Rifles?

Anyone ever convert one to a bottle?

Got the Huben GK1, .25, V3, Unregulated.

Had some air in it, and loaded in the pellets. Went to do a test shot, and it emptied out all of the air, and now I cannot shoot, pellet is jammed (I assume), and I can't rotate the magazine any more. (That is also jammed).

Why did it empty out the gas? How can I fix the jam? Any insight?

Pellets were seneca, .25 cal

Hey everyone new member here in Tasmania Australia im about to purchase a .25 cal fx dynamic express 700mm and just wondering what people are finding is the heaviest slug they can shoot with standard rifle , at roughly what reg pressure , velocity and shot count ?

Does anyone have a low power Advanced setting for the .25 caliber 25 grain pellets? The "factory settings" are way off, and so is the Advanced 2526 setting. Both start off shooting well over 1000 fps and telling me that I need 175b regulator to shoot the 25g pellets at 860 fps (which is absurd).

I am interested in getting the edgun peazy fill system and it mentions that it will fit any 8mm fill probe...but I can't find any info on what size fill probe the huben gk1 takes. I measured it with my calipers and it came in under 8mm. Are edgun leshi 2 probes and the gk1 compatible? It also said you can swap the prob out for a foster fitting...but the one I got to test doesn't fit the huben probe (luckily it was only a few dollars). Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks

I own an Alpha wolf almost a year.
I have an issue with velocity.

I choose for example 22CAL 18.13grain 23"Barrel and 900 fps and the rifle shoots 800fps.
I double checked the velocity with an external Crono.

I changed both external O rings at the transfer port and the one smaller in the barrel. still same results.

Any suggestions that would be useful? I run out of ideas and daystate sents me back at the seller.

Thank you in advance

Hello everyone!

I am new to this forum and new to creating airgun valves in general. My apologizes if this post is not in the right place.

After giving a few attempts at my own design I was hoping that someone with more experience would be able to help me out.

To give some background, I am trying to create what I believe is called a poppet valve that is used with standard 800 psi CO2 cartages. I have limited capabilities in my shop and I want the design to have some forgiveness to lose tolerances and to use as many of the shelf parts as possible. My current version of the valve (depicted below) has only lasted a few cartridges before it starts to leak. All the parts of the valve are not included, but it should get the point across. I believe that the material used for my piston seal (part 3) and/or the adhesive that I'm using to attach it to part 2 may be the problem.

I have been using 1/32" thick, shore A 60 hardness, EDPM rubber for part 3. I am adhering it to part 2 with permabond 105 which is great for "difficult" rubbers like EDPM. I originally chose EDPM because I thought was that it needed to withstand cold temps when rapid firing. But after some testing, I believe the the seal is becoming damaged after only a few uses. After some more research I have been seeing that shore A 80 polyurethane may be used here instead due to its ability to withstand many compression/decompression cycles? But this is my main question... what is typically used here? Also, is there a better design that would allow me to remove the adhesive all together? Or is using adhesive fine? I have seen designs where the piston (part 4) is made out of derlin and there is no seal or adhesive, but I am trying to use a common part there instead of something custom. It is currently is an off the shelf threaded standoff... McMaster-Carr part "91125A339".

I have used two materials for part (2). The first was steel. I later tried nylon which i found to have ample strength and better adhesion to the seal (part 3) when using the permabond 105. It is also much easier to drill.

My next material choice for part 3 would be shore A 80 polyurethane, 1/16" thick and I plan to use permabond 105 again. Any insight on these choices would be greatly appreciated. I am also open to design changes that remove the adhesive altogether, but I'd like to keep the same form factor and not make any more custom parts. Currently only parts 2 and 3 are custom and they are very easy to make.

Thanks in advance for any help!