Are any of you planning on installing a Picatinny rail to the FX Wildcat's stock forend for mounting a bipod, sling mount, etc? If so, are you going to screw directly into the synthetic stock material or install metal threads? I ran across the following YouTube video where a guy installs Perma Coil metal threads into his FX Bobcat stock. The metal threads look like an interesting way to go. Bob
FX WC Forend Picatinny Rail Installation?
- Thread starter Bobmart
- Start date
I tap into the material itself - without the need to use metal inserts. BUT, I use swivel studs to mount the rail. Swivel studs have a very coarse thread; it is fat and bites into a lot of material. I also use white spacers with the 3/4" swivel studs to give the studs a sort of 'shock abosorber', giving further insurance from a potential strip. Small-threaded screws will almost certainly strip the stock material.
But, to answer your direct question - No, I will not be mounting a rail to my WildCat. I will be using a swivel stud + Harris bipod. The wildcat is tiny and light. I hope to keep it that way. A rail and an Atlas (or similar) bipod would create too much bulk for my liking.
Rail Installation with swivel studs
Single swivel stud + Harris bipod
But, to answer your direct question - No, I will not be mounting a rail to my WildCat. I will be using a swivel stud + Harris bipod. The wildcat is tiny and light. I hope to keep it that way. A rail and an Atlas (or similar) bipod would create too much bulk for my liking.
Rail Installation with swivel studs
Single swivel stud + Harris bipod
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I used the heli-coil method and the coils tore out of the stock after about 3 weeks. I used the t-nuts instead, (bend the flat face to match the airtube diameter and was able to draw them into the stock material enough to install/remove the tube) they have been rock solid ever since. I did not counter bore for the t-nuts and the install took roughly 10 minutes.
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Thank you Ted for your thoughts on the subject and the associated web links.
I asked FX on another thread whether the FX tube clamp will work on the .25 Wildcat, and I'm waiting for their response. In line with your thinking, the tube clamp would add more weight than simply installing a swivel stud, and would therefore be less desirable on the WC. Bob
I asked FX on another thread whether the FX tube clamp will work on the .25 Wildcat, and I'm waiting for their response. In line with your thinking, the tube clamp would add more weight than simply installing a swivel stud, and would therefore be less desirable on the WC. Bob
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How does the wildcat compare to the bobcat overall. I had my mind set on buying the bobcat but the new release of the wildcat has me second guessing which one to purchase? Any feed back would be greatly appreciated -JB
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Hi JB. Welcome to the AGN forum from a fellow airgun enthusiast. There have been many discussions on the forum about the Bobcat and the Wildcat. I think a good way to tap into the numerous posts would be to enter "wildcat" into the search field on the AGN home page. You can then scan thru the posts and read the ones of interest to you.
Here's one thread that has some comparisons about the BC and WC:
http://airgunnation.dev/topic/fx-wildcat/#post-1864
Bob
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You're welcome JB. I amended my post to include a link to one such discussion. Here it is:
Here’s one thread that has some comparisons about the BC and WC:
http://airgunnation.dev/topic/fx-wildcat/#post-1864
Bob
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http://www.brownells.no/epages/Norge.sf/sec6ba6bd1d03/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Norge/Products/06945416005001/SubProducts/416005101
Is this the same Ted?
Does it need 1 or 2 studs?
It's definitely got good reviews. Wondering a little about why you chose the BRM model? Doesn't the BR have notches?
Model BR: For benchrest use. BRM has equally spaced height adjusting notches.
Back to the main thread, yes. I want a sling/ strap mainly. But I want to be able to mount a bipod when I feel like it. Keeping the lightness is clue.
If you guys have any suggestions, please fire away.
Is this the same Ted?
Does it need 1 or 2 studs?
It's definitely got good reviews. Wondering a little about why you chose the BRM model? Doesn't the BR have notches?
Model BR: For benchrest use. BRM has equally spaced height adjusting notches.
Back to the main thread, yes. I want a sling/ strap mainly. But I want to be able to mount a bipod when I feel like it. Keeping the lightness is clue.
If you guys have any suggestions, please fire away.
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I tried the heli-coil method on my Bobcat and it didn't work very well for me. I then went to a brass threaded insert method and that worked out much better.
http://www.amazon.com/Platte-River-machine-threads-Threaded/dp/B0091MHLD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430876054&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+20+brass+threaded+insert - The ones I got were NOT this thread pitch. I do not recall what my thread pitch was (10-24 maybe?).
The heli-coil is a much cleaner look and I wish I had better results with it but, it stripped right out of the stock and that was the end of it for me.
The brass insert needs a HUGE hole! 3/8" in some cases. And, they're tall too. I think 3/8" as well. That's a lot of material to remove from a stock. However, once the insert is in place, the walls of that great big hole all that turn into surface area which helps with strength. They might be a good choice for some as a "plan B" or for some repair work. I installed mine by threading a LONG bolt into the insert and locking it in place with a nut. They also sell T-wreches for about $6. You want the length to assist you in keeping them perpendicular to the stock. You can also put them in using a flat blade screwdriver but, that's only if you can install them from the backside. I set mine ever so very slightly proud of the stock so that the insert takes the majority of the screw tension. I have not used these for a sling stud attachment point. Both of my installations were for a pair of them to work together to use an Atlas rail, and both were in FX synthetic stocks. If I had to do it again, I'd buy or make the t-wrench. Also, I didn't just drive them in. I ran them in like I was tapping a hole in metal - 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn back, 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn back.
Ted - Good thoughts on the WC set up! I'm second guessing my original plan a little.
http://www.amazon.com/Platte-River-machine-threads-Threaded/dp/B0091MHLD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430876054&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+20+brass+threaded+insert - The ones I got were NOT this thread pitch. I do not recall what my thread pitch was (10-24 maybe?).
The heli-coil is a much cleaner look and I wish I had better results with it but, it stripped right out of the stock and that was the end of it for me.
The brass insert needs a HUGE hole! 3/8" in some cases. And, they're tall too. I think 3/8" as well. That's a lot of material to remove from a stock. However, once the insert is in place, the walls of that great big hole all that turn into surface area which helps with strength. They might be a good choice for some as a "plan B" or for some repair work. I installed mine by threading a LONG bolt into the insert and locking it in place with a nut. They also sell T-wreches for about $6. You want the length to assist you in keeping them perpendicular to the stock. You can also put them in using a flat blade screwdriver but, that's only if you can install them from the backside. I set mine ever so very slightly proud of the stock so that the insert takes the majority of the screw tension. I have not used these for a sling stud attachment point. Both of my installations were for a pair of them to work together to use an Atlas rail, and both were in FX synthetic stocks. If I had to do it again, I'd buy or make the t-wrench. Also, I didn't just drive them in. I ran them in like I was tapping a hole in metal - 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn back, 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn back.
Ted - Good thoughts on the WC set up! I'm second guessing my original plan a little.
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1 stud required
From the Harris website:
"Features:
Harris bipods are quick detachable and clamp to the sling swivel stud already installed in most rifles, we offer adapters for those rifles that do not have a factory installed studs.
Styles:
Series "M": A new version of the original Bipod. The legs eject by spring action. Height settings are in 1" increments.
Series "S": Swivels to either side for instant leveling on uneven ground. Hinged base has tension adjustment and buffer springs to eliminate tremor or looseness. They are otherwise similar to non-swivel series.
Available for ALL models except the "H" model."
The BR has a thumb screw for fine tuning your height precisely. It also has a spring action retraction.
The BRM will give you 1 inch adjustments which might leave you tilting either one way or the other.
Keep in mind the "S" models. You may or may not want the ability to swivel. "Swivel" might not have been the best term for them to use since it's more of a tilt side to side action rather than a rotational left + right
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You might look into Keenserts. They are a bit larger than the helicoils but smaller than what I think you used Tom.
If you used the brass wood insert from Ace or True Value then an easer way to install them is to cut the head off a bolt of the same inner thread type as the insert, thread a jam nut on and then the insert, lock the jam nut to the insert and chuck this into the drill press and thread it into the hole in the stock while putting pressure on the insert. This will keep the insert from cocking while installing. You might need another set of hands to hold the stock while you do this, so start being nice the better half before hand.
If you used the brass wood insert from Ace or True Value then an easer way to install them is to cut the head off a bolt of the same inner thread type as the insert, thread a jam nut on and then the insert, lock the jam nut to the insert and chuck this into the drill press and thread it into the hole in the stock while putting pressure on the insert. This will keep the insert from cocking while installing. You might need another set of hands to hold the stock while you do this, so start being nice the better half before hand.
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Drill press! You're saying to unplug it and manually turn it, right? Otherwise, I think it would get driven in way too fast, no? I basically did what you described but, turned it in by hand instead of locking it in the drill press.
Good suggestion, though. It would work very nicely to keep everything in line.
I like those Keenserts! Thanks for that suggestion too! I'm going to have to get me some of those.
Can anyone tell me the exact thread pitch on a machined bipod stud? I can't find this information anywhere I've looked. Does it vary?
And, does anyomne know a decent place to get these at different lengths?
Good suggestion, though. It would work very nicely to keep everything in line.
I like those Keenserts! Thanks for that suggestion too! I'm going to have to get me some of those.
Can anyone tell me the exact thread pitch on a machined bipod stud? I can't find this information anywhere I've looked. Does it vary?
And, does anyomne know a decent place to get these at different lengths?
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Following up on Teds tip about the BT1517 and having finally taken delivery of my FX Wildcat in .25, and having acquired the required courage (beer may have been involved). I finally bit the pellet and took drill to stock (or more accurately drill and drill-stand).
The stock of the FX Wildcat seems to be made of some kind of reconstituted plastic/rubber combination. This makes for a very tactile warm to the touch stock. Whilst the down side of this material is that it doesn't hold threads very well, the up side is that it does machine well.
Below is a picture of the bits I used to attach the rail:
~original
This next picture shows the inside of the stock with the rail fitted:
~original
These next two pictures just give an overall view of the finished stock:
~original
~original
Basically drilled two 6.5mm holes perpendicular to the underside of the forend at the required spacing, then using the 6.5mm holes as a guide, counter bored the holes from the inside of the forend with the 22mm flat drill (again perpendicular to the underside of the forend). Finally using some thread lock, assembled the bits. The trick is clamping everything together solidly to hold everything in place and level while drilling, but other than that the material the stock's made out of is easy to cut into.
One FX Wildcat good to go.
The stock of the FX Wildcat seems to be made of some kind of reconstituted plastic/rubber combination. This makes for a very tactile warm to the touch stock. Whilst the down side of this material is that it doesn't hold threads very well, the up side is that it does machine well.
Below is a picture of the bits I used to attach the rail:
~originalThis next picture shows the inside of the stock with the rail fitted:
~originalThese next two pictures just give an overall view of the finished stock:
~original~originalBasically drilled two 6.5mm holes perpendicular to the underside of the forend at the required spacing, then using the 6.5mm holes as a guide, counter bored the holes from the inside of the forend with the 22mm flat drill (again perpendicular to the underside of the forend). Finally using some thread lock, assembled the bits. The trick is clamping everything together solidly to hold everything in place and level while drilling, but other than that the material the stock's made out of is easy to cut into.
One FX Wildcat good to go.
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FX WILDCAT - CUSTOM INSTALL OF ATLAS RAIL BY KIP PEROW OF AIRGUNS OF ARIZONA
I recently bought a genuine ATLAS bipod to use with my new FX Wildcat and existing Daystate Air Wolf. I went with Atlas since they offer a model with a quick release lever to make switching between rifles a breeze. In addition to the Atlas bipod, I ordered the Atlas 3.35" Picatinny Rail and Atlas Individual Faster kit for both rifles. Since I have no faith in my ability to install the mounts without damaging the stocks of my rifles, I decided to leave it to the pros. In my case, I had Kip at Airguns of Arizona do the installation work for me. The installation took just 2 days and boy was it worth it. Kip did a top notch job as you can see from the pictures below:
Inside the Stock - BT517 Fastners
Atlas BT15 Picatinny Rail (mounted)
Bipod Attached - Note ADM 170S Quick Release Lever
Wildcat on Atlas Bipod
COST BREAK DOWN:
I recently bought a genuine ATLAS bipod to use with my new FX Wildcat and existing Daystate Air Wolf. I went with Atlas since they offer a model with a quick release lever to make switching between rifles a breeze. In addition to the Atlas bipod, I ordered the Atlas 3.35" Picatinny Rail and Atlas Individual Faster kit for both rifles. Since I have no faith in my ability to install the mounts without damaging the stocks of my rifles, I decided to leave it to the pros. In my case, I had Kip at Airguns of Arizona do the installation work for me. The installation took just 2 days and boy was it worth it. Kip did a top notch job as you can see from the pictures below:
Inside the Stock - BT517 Fastners
Atlas BT15 Picatinny Rail (mounted)
Bipod Attached - Note ADM 170S Quick Release Lever
Wildcat on Atlas Bipod
COST BREAK DOWN:
- $269 - Atlas BT10-LW17 V8 Bipod
- $20 - Atlas BT15 3.35" Picatinny Rail
- $5 - Atlas BT517 Fastener Set
- $65 - Rail Installation at AOA
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That turned out very well! Will be doing that in the near future. Have to get a gizmo for the Harris bipod so that it will fit picatinny rail though.
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Been looking at my alternatives here in Norway, but it's a bit steeper in price... about 28$ for the rail, can't find the fastener set, about 25$ for a picatinny to stud adapter. 16$ for shipping.
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Bitfrost, You might consider this as an alternative... http://airgunnation.dev/topic/fx-impact-and-wildcat-bipod-mounting-photos/page/2/?view=all#post-15028
It's still working well for me!
It's still working well for me!
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Thanks for the suggestion, however I will go with the rail as it will cover up my previous mistakes trying to install a swivel stud(however simple it may sound).
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