HUMA regulator for Daystate Renegade .22

Yes, I do... Didn't realize anyone was interested. I actually have two HUMAs for my Renegade. When the gun was new, it got about 895 fps with JSB 18.1, and in the "sweet spot" (unregulated), with the DS Slingshot Valve system, got about an ES of 20 to 25 for 50 shots (215 to 135 bar). About 32 fpe. My initial report was with a small cheapo airsoft chrony, and it was WAY high with the pellet velocity (with first HUMA). I was not getting 890 as I thought, and when measured with my "real" Caldwell chrony I found it was about 870 with 145 bar...

The original one fits directly inside the pressure tube, and butts up against the valve housing. I set the regulator to 135bar, and my velocity was "only" 855 fps, but my ES over a 70 shot range was 6. The issue is the very small transfer port used by Daystate between the pressure tube and valve house into the slingshot valve and hammer system. Although there seems to be enough plenum space, the air doesn't move well from the regulator to the high pressure side of the valve. I bumped up the reg. to 140b, then 145b, but didn't get much of an increase, maybe 7 or 8 fps each time. Shot count went down a lot to 55 and then 50.

So then, talking to Huub at HUMA, he said I could try out the HUMA for the Wolverine, since DS uses the same diameter pressure tube for the Renegade and the Wolverine "C". This reg. comes with a plenum to go between the reg. and valve housing, and he sent me two sizes. One for the .22 Wolverine, the other for the .25. Obviously, the .25 is larger. Well, I tried the smaller plenum first, and it worked very well. With 135b, the velocity went up to approx. 877 fps, and shot count only went down to 65 to 68 with 31 fpe. Plus, I still had the ES of 6 or 7 fps. I tried the larger plenum, but it didn't help much, only about 5 fps increase, and shot count went down to 50 to 55. 

So I'd recommend the Wolverine "C" HUMA with .22 plenum if you were to regulate your Renegade. You can fill the gun to 250 bar, and shoot down to 135 bar, or whatever you have the reg. set to, about 70 shots. Plus, you still get about 10 to 15 shots without a POI drop at 40 yards after it falls of the reg. So you're talking approx. 80 accurate shots with a fill, JSB 18.1 grain Exact Heavy. The gun is super accurate, one hole at 28 yards, and 1/2" at 50 yards. Trigger is truly one of the best I've ever used. The only down side to this gun is that its kind of heavy. I have a Vortex Razor HD LH 3-15x42, and its pretty light, only 16 ounces, so that helps. I also have a DonnyFL Sumo, and its truly "mouse fart" quiet...

Mike

Thanks. AoA has the black Renegade on sale with free Aztec Emerald scope. Can choose .177 or .22. 

http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/precharged-pcp/daystate-renegade-black-synthetic-bullpup/

Ljutic, not sure about the warranty. I wouldn’t think so since it can be easily removed, and there were no permanent modifications made. However, I’d remove it if I ever needed to send it for warranty service. It takes 10 minutes to install or remove the reg., and most of that time is bleeding air off the pressure tube. One thing. When you install the reg you only read reg pressure on the gage, not tube pressure. 

Yeah, I agree, especially for the FAC (USA) market. I think its because for the low power market, its not really a necessity. If you have a good valve/hammer system, like the DS Slingshot, and shoot at the "sweet spot" curve of pressure, you'll probably have an ES of less than 20 fps for over 100 shots. Take my Brocock Bantam (20 fpe), for example. It has the DS Slingshot system, and a 480 cc bottle. Its in .177 caliber, and can be filled to 250 bar and shot down to 110 bar. Doing this gets well over 150 shots, but an ES of in excess of 50 fps, which is not acceptable for accuracy. However, if I fill to 225 bar, and shoot down to 140 bar, I get almost 100 shots with an ES of 20 or less fps. Would a regulator add to its accuracy? Probably not. DS needs to realize that for the larger calibers this isn't always the case, which is why I installed the regulator in my Renegade .22...
Mike

You’ll want the DS Wolverine regulator with .30 plenum. Get the high pressure one. Ask him to send both .25 and .30 plenum so you can try both, but if only one, I'd buy the .30 plenum first since you are probably putting out 60 fpe or greater with the Renegade HP. I’d start at 150 bar on the reg. The pressure tubes are same diameter. Plus you’ll get a set of oversized Orings just in case it doesn’t seal with the regular ones. 

Yes, it does vent, but no drilling required. First take off the stock.

To vent off the tube, you can unscrew the pressure gage a little till air comes out, or unscrew the male foster a little on the end of the pressure tube. Either way it will depressurize the tube. I usually do the pressure gage, I think it take a 7/8" socket over the gage. When you unscrew the pressure tube, make note of which way is "up". Mark the tube with something so you'll know.

Next unscrew the tube, it may take a little force, but if depressurized, it should start without too much trouble. One it comes off, remove it. The tube screws on to the valve house, so you'll remove the two O-rings on the valve house. Save in case you want to assemble without the regulator at some time in the future.

Now, look at the pressure tube, and insert the regulator/plenum assembly with the brass end with adjuster towards the end of the gun, and the flat end towards the valve house. The small hole in the regulator body should be "up" when you finish screwing pressure tube back on valve house. Push the regulator in enough so that it is far enough in that the valve house does not contact it when you screw it back together. The reason I say "up" is because you need to plan on screwing it all the way on, then backing off about 1/4 turn. So the hole should be "up" once you have backed off 1/4 turn. I use a small amount of silicon grease on the O-rings to make things easier to assemble, a very small amount.

The regulator vents through the small gap you created when you backed off the pressure tube 1/4 turn from the valve house. Don't worry, it will seal and hold pressure just fine, since the seal is the end of the regulator O-ring on flat part of regulator to the valve house. Oh yeah, tighten the gage, just firm, not too tight or you'll break the gage... Now pressurize your gun, check for leaks, and install the stock.

Once you do this once or twice it becomes very simple and quick. I've had mine in and out at least ten times adjusting the regulator setting and/or changing out plenum sizes. Easy...
Mike

Thanks Chuck, I appreciate the compliment. I’ve been an admirer of your posts for some time now. 
Ive been letting Huub know the status of my trials, I’m sure he appreciates my input. I agree, if Daystate would open up the air transfer path from the pressure tube though the valve house to the high pressure side of the valve the gun would have much more potential for power increases. It would be easy to get 35 fpe. As for now, I’m almost to the power it was without the regulator, 31 fpe. Not bad, and super accurate. I’m not sure the 18.1 are very stable over 900 anyway. I know the BC starts to lower markedly much over 920 fps
One thing about this gun is the excellent accuracy and match grade trigger. I actually use it for 25M benchrest and do quite well, cards over 240 are not unusual. And, it’s taken it’s fair share of ground squirrels out to 90 yards. Take care,
Mike

Thanks again. With the Renegade pretty much the way I want it, and the Tuxing Compressor with upgraded cooling and filter/dryer completed, I need another project. . One thing I’ll be doing is installing an Edgun EDMU electronic gage in place of the pressure tube gage on my .30 FX Bobcat, with Huma of course. Then it’s practice practice practice for EBR. I want to do lots of testing between 44.8 gr and 50.1 gr pellets to see which is best for the ST barrel. I’ve got the 44.8 flying at 890 fps and the 50.1 gr at 855 fps. I’ll put that info out once done. FYI, a really cool testing area at my Airgun shooting club. We have a 50 yards indoor range for testing. We call it the tunnel, since it’s basically an underground 30 inch diameter pipe open on each end. Very easy to shoot with no wind and get super accurate data.