OK...You've all seen the YouTube Videos and heard some forum facts and myths. There is a lot of good info to be had but some which is unfounded. I wanted to jump on my soap box here and layout my version, inclusive of some important facts that have been neglected. To start with, I have had my Auto Set 110v model for 3 months. I have about 5 hours run time on it and have used it to top off my Great White 98 CF tank from 2800-4500 psi 6 times. I believe a good method is to fill in (3) 15 minute intervals, with 10- 15 minute rests, in between. If I am close by, I will crack both the bleeders every 5 minutes, to expel the moisture that collects in the high and low pressure air plenums. This practice keeps a surprising amount of water/oil from saturating the filter. It takes, on average, 42 minutes of run time to accomplish this. The "auto off" is set @ 3500 then 4000 and finally 4500 (in case I get side tracked), which achieves the 15 min run intervals, mentioned. With the way I have set mine up, the head temp has never been over 42 C, yielding quite clean and dry air. Concern for excess heat is more applicable to the crank and oil, thus the rest periods. Here is a Pic of the system which I will which I will explain:
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Some key notes here are:
1) I use the bucket in the sink as a reservoir for the water pump and the discharge hose goes into the sink, so I can see flow, and create an open circuit, so I am not recirculating warmed water but pumping cooler water provided from the faucet. OK, for you conservationist, this water just goes out to water my garden, from the shop sink. Same thing could be accomplished with a garden hose on the patio.
2) There has been word of leaky fittings/hose. Typically, the buyer installed portions. Check all the fittings when you receive the unit...I don't believe they are tightened adequately, by the little Geisha hands, at the factory. Use the supplied bushing seals and synthetic washers...there is really no need for Teflon tape, pipe thread sealer or the like.
3) The user manual is a bit rough but read through it, thoroughly, as there is useful info.
4) I would recommend the 110v version, over the 220v, just for the utility alone...no complicated outlet wiring and 110v outlets everywhere.
5) Look for the compressor, sold through Ali Express from "Yong Heng Shop Store". My purchase was seamless and they seem to sell more than other distributors and have very good reviews. Note that inclusive of shipping, the total cost is about $100 less than Ebay or Amazon. Mine arrived in Utah within 13 days of ordering (this is supposedly guaranteed, though I didn't need to check this claim out).
6) Contrary to some claims out there, the auto set/shutoff version does come in 110v. Just select the appropriate plug end.
7) It arrived with all the described components, inclusive of piston rings/head seals for the eventual rebuild. The shipping box is quite substantial.
8) Most all rebuild/replacement/peripheral components are readily available through this website, given a little research. Pistons, complete head assemblies, crank, connecting rod, fittings, hoses, filters, etc.
9) Please use the recommended hydraulic oil. It's readily available, at Pep Boys, for about $16/gal. (Probably about a 5 year supply) I don't claim to be a lubricologist (I guess that's not a word) but there is a good reason it is recommended, based on viscosity, cleaning properties, heat dissipation, antifoam properties, etc. Most important, dump your "break in" oil after, say, a 20-40 minute run time. I'm making a practice of changing it every 5th tank top off.
10) Note that the water pump has a restrictor slide over the inlet port (probably for some aquarium application). I would set this wide open.
Key notes here:
1) Keep a use log...this applies to any equipment. Depending on memory, for filter/desiccant/oil changes won't work. That just ends up providing for more "forum fodder", weeping, wailing and gnashing of teeth.
2) I note that the hose end female foster fitting fits Brancato male fosters except for his offering, in the male foster to female BBSP. The shoulder on this is too close to allow for the retaining bearings to gain purchase in the male foster detent portion. I have to use this adapter for my Edgun filler probe.
3) You may note the filter setup is a little different than the OEM version. I have seen a lot of expensive ways of achieving filtration...this is my $26 version and I got some extra fittings and "tampon" filters out of the deal. The extra hose and filter assembly are readily available on the Ali Express website, as mentioned earlier. Here is a more detailed view of this assembly:
What you see here is the same hose/filter assembly, just reversed and attached to the provided filter housing. You will have to switch around some fittings but all you need, is provided for, with some extras. I basically use the included housing for the tampon and the second one for 13x 4x8 molecular sieve desiccant, on top of a 3/4" long piece of tampon filter. Desiccant was about 25 bucks + shipping, for a pound, which I change out every other tank top off, while changing the tampon every fill (nothing like good feminine hygiene). I calculated the filtration cost, with this methodology and it's somewhere around 15-18 cents a top off. My biggest challenge was finding this desiccant in a small quantity. I don't have that contact info with me but if anyone is interested, I will post it later. OK, what have I missed...
1) You will need to open an account to purchase through Ali Express, which is counter intuitive at best. I was able to muddle through it so all you Millennials should breeze right through it (I do expect you to help us older farts out, though.)
2) I like filling to my tank and then tank to gun, as this inherently facilitates dryer air ending up at the gun. I pulled my valve off my tank and swabbed the interior...dry as a bone so maybe overkill. (had to get my first hydro test)
3) I have calculated, with drive time/fuel, top offs to 3500 to 4000 psi (at best) and $10 a pop for fill fee, that this little jewel will pay for itself in around 10 fills. Of course, I may need to figure in the cost of shooting a poop load more, with compressed air being so close at hand.
4) This may stir in the poop pile a little bit but I highly advise opening both bleeders before switching the compressor on. Eventually, someone's going to start it under load and that can't be good...a little like starting your old Dodge Dart in gear. I close them after start and then when the tank or compressor gauge approaches your current tank pressure, open the tank valve to equalize. Just a precaution in avoidance of the fore mentioned WWAGOT. (Don't you love acronyms? You'll figure it out.)
4) Please, still have your tank routinely hydro-tested even though you can dodge the certification...no substitute for safety unless you're really looking forward to shaking God's hand, or in my case, the other guy's. Hope you fellers find this somewhat informative, in reciprocation of all the good input I've been privy to, via Airgun Nation.
Best holiday wishes to all, Steve
http://
Some key notes here are:
1) I use the bucket in the sink as a reservoir for the water pump and the discharge hose goes into the sink, so I can see flow, and create an open circuit, so I am not recirculating warmed water but pumping cooler water provided from the faucet. OK, for you conservationist, this water just goes out to water my garden, from the shop sink. Same thing could be accomplished with a garden hose on the patio.
2) There has been word of leaky fittings/hose. Typically, the buyer installed portions. Check all the fittings when you receive the unit...I don't believe they are tightened adequately, by the little Geisha hands, at the factory. Use the supplied bushing seals and synthetic washers...there is really no need for Teflon tape, pipe thread sealer or the like.
3) The user manual is a bit rough but read through it, thoroughly, as there is useful info.
4) I would recommend the 110v version, over the 220v, just for the utility alone...no complicated outlet wiring and 110v outlets everywhere.
5) Look for the compressor, sold through Ali Express from "Yong Heng Shop Store". My purchase was seamless and they seem to sell more than other distributors and have very good reviews. Note that inclusive of shipping, the total cost is about $100 less than Ebay or Amazon. Mine arrived in Utah within 13 days of ordering (this is supposedly guaranteed, though I didn't need to check this claim out).
6) Contrary to some claims out there, the auto set/shutoff version does come in 110v. Just select the appropriate plug end.
7) It arrived with all the described components, inclusive of piston rings/head seals for the eventual rebuild. The shipping box is quite substantial.
8) Most all rebuild/replacement/peripheral components are readily available through this website, given a little research. Pistons, complete head assemblies, crank, connecting rod, fittings, hoses, filters, etc.
9) Please use the recommended hydraulic oil. It's readily available, at Pep Boys, for about $16/gal. (Probably about a 5 year supply) I don't claim to be a lubricologist (I guess that's not a word) but there is a good reason it is recommended, based on viscosity, cleaning properties, heat dissipation, antifoam properties, etc. Most important, dump your "break in" oil after, say, a 20-40 minute run time. I'm making a practice of changing it every 5th tank top off.
10) Note that the water pump has a restrictor slide over the inlet port (probably for some aquarium application). I would set this wide open.
Key notes here:
1) Keep a use log...this applies to any equipment. Depending on memory, for filter/desiccant/oil changes won't work. That just ends up providing for more "forum fodder", weeping, wailing and gnashing of teeth.
2) I note that the hose end female foster fitting fits Brancato male fosters except for his offering, in the male foster to female BBSP. The shoulder on this is too close to allow for the retaining bearings to gain purchase in the male foster detent portion. I have to use this adapter for my Edgun filler probe.
3) You may note the filter setup is a little different than the OEM version. I have seen a lot of expensive ways of achieving filtration...this is my $26 version and I got some extra fittings and "tampon" filters out of the deal. The extra hose and filter assembly are readily available on the Ali Express website, as mentioned earlier. Here is a more detailed view of this assembly:
What you see here is the same hose/filter assembly, just reversed and attached to the provided filter housing. You will have to switch around some fittings but all you need, is provided for, with some extras. I basically use the included housing for the tampon and the second one for 13x 4x8 molecular sieve desiccant, on top of a 3/4" long piece of tampon filter. Desiccant was about 25 bucks + shipping, for a pound, which I change out every other tank top off, while changing the tampon every fill (nothing like good feminine hygiene). I calculated the filtration cost, with this methodology and it's somewhere around 15-18 cents a top off. My biggest challenge was finding this desiccant in a small quantity. I don't have that contact info with me but if anyone is interested, I will post it later. OK, what have I missed...
1) You will need to open an account to purchase through Ali Express, which is counter intuitive at best. I was able to muddle through it so all you Millennials should breeze right through it (I do expect you to help us older farts out, though.)
2) I like filling to my tank and then tank to gun, as this inherently facilitates dryer air ending up at the gun. I pulled my valve off my tank and swabbed the interior...dry as a bone so maybe overkill. (had to get my first hydro test)
3) I have calculated, with drive time/fuel, top offs to 3500 to 4000 psi (at best) and $10 a pop for fill fee, that this little jewel will pay for itself in around 10 fills. Of course, I may need to figure in the cost of shooting a poop load more, with compressed air being so close at hand.
4) This may stir in the poop pile a little bit but I highly advise opening both bleeders before switching the compressor on. Eventually, someone's going to start it under load and that can't be good...a little like starting your old Dodge Dart in gear. I close them after start and then when the tank or compressor gauge approaches your current tank pressure, open the tank valve to equalize. Just a precaution in avoidance of the fore mentioned WWAGOT. (Don't you love acronyms? You'll figure it out.)
4) Please, still have your tank routinely hydro-tested even though you can dodge the certification...no substitute for safety unless you're really looking forward to shaking God's hand, or in my case, the other guy's. Hope you fellers find this somewhat informative, in reciprocation of all the good input I've been privy to, via Airgun Nation.
Best holiday wishes to all, Steve
