Sight-in choices?

I like MPBR.

I sight in for most common distance then use Strelok Pro to see clicks up or down for other distances.

When I moved to my new house I realized almost all of my pest shots were going to be well within the 1/4" low distance of my MPBR.

I swapped the barrel to 25 cal in my Leshiy Classic & set it up to shoot Polymags slow. Kept some power & my new MPBR now covered all of the practical distances in my backyard. While I do get occasional close shots that require some holdover, none of them are as close as five yards.

If I did I'd use a gooseneck picatinny rail & mount a laser tight up under the shroud like I've seen others do. Heck, I might do that anyways.

I don't hunt........I shoot rings only.
For 100 meters I sight in my .25 Impact for 100 meters and use Strelok.
For 50 meters I sight in my .22 Leshiy2 for 50 meters and use Strelok.
but for short distances / pesting?
Green laser... I sighted in to a bore laser just anywhere between 5 to 10 meters, the difference is less then 10mm=1/2" and I don't even look through a scope but handheld pointing the green laser...clearly visible at short distances even at noon or bright sunlight, and I tried in half shade visible at 50 meters as well.

I am very fortunate to have an indoor range that allows me to work on rifles and verify zero at any point in time and any weather. So I zero on the 18 yard indoor range, then make all of my long distance calls from there. Allows for a stable platform to always be able to confirm zero.

Even though StrelokPro works great, nothing beats shooting and plotting various impact points at five yard intervals

Most of my pesting is inside 35 yards, so it really doesn't make much difference. But, if I'm shooting at varying distances, I like to zero the rifle to be dead on at it's maximum trajectory, so every hold for a shorter or longer than the zero range, is a hold over, never hold under, which I find counterintuitive. Since longer distances may require considerable hold over, a scope with suitable hash marks helps a lot.

bdzjlz said:

Even though StrelokPro works great, nothing beats shooting and plotting various impact points at five yard intervals

Click to expand...

BINGO !!!!

I like to zero at 20 yards, most of my rifles will be back on POI again at 50 so this gives me a nice range to play with with minimal compensation from 10 to 60 yards and for hunting minimal compensation is key since in the heat of the moment the brain isn't always thinking clearly

I do maximum point blank but close up shots run into the problem of the old scope over bore issue. I either hold under or in the case of my condor I put a cheap Lazer on it. Occasionally I get a raccoon at 4 yards that I just point out the sliding glass door and pop it when it's eating my cats food. It's not intuitive at all to hold under so the Lazer does help.

Method A:
A gun for target shooting I zero at the range of my most common targets.


Method B:
If I have a gun I shoot in a variety of hunting shooting scenarios I try to get the longest point blank range (PBR) — for a given kill zone (KZ).
The kill zone is of course different for pigeon headshots, or for bodyshots on larger critters. I might assume the smallest common KZ.
Tools: ChairGun for Windows, or the "PBR Calc" app of the GPC Ballistics Applications suite.


Method C:
If I have a gun I shoot in a certain hunting scenario that has most targets in a fairly limited sector of ranges I try to zero the gun within about the last third of that sector of ranges — and figure out what PBR my typical KZ size will give me — and tweak it from there a bit.

Matthias

I've switched to ffp scopes and use a mtc range finder which will give you correct hold over or clicks once I range it for that gun I write it down in a small note book for that gun I normally sight in for 30 yards

Triggernosis,
I agree with Matthias' methods listed above, but I mostly set up my gun/scope combos to shoot at different distances(10 to 200 yards) and I don't like to hold under, so I zero at the projectile's trajectory apex, usually between 18yards(12 ft/lb guns) to 35yards(screaming fast "lighter" slugs), depending on speed and weight of slug/pellet. I use scopes which have enough vertical travel to accomplish the required vertical click range and use adjustable mounts to keep this range as close to optical center as possible. I check that the vertical crosshair is centered to the bore(mirror method) then install a bubble level on the scope(plumb bob method).
After zeroing, I verify that scope isn't canted by shooting at distances closer(10 yards) and farther(50 to 100yards) than zero, aiming at dot on top of a vertical line on a target. Both close AND far distance should be pretty much straight below my holdpoint(if one, or both, are off to the right or left, then I repeat scope leveling procedure). I also verify Strelock Pro infomation at those distances.
If you don't have access to chronograph(I highly recommend you invest in one), then set out targets at distances between 15, 20, 25, and 35 yards, then shoot 3 shot groups at each target. It should become evident where your trajectory apex is. Zero at that distance, then everything closer or farther will be a holdOVER shot. Shoot targets at different distances to figure out your holdover points for different distances.
Good luck,
Ghostranger169

I use my cheap chinese chronograph to give me a good idea how fast I am pushing an accurate pellet in that rifle and then look at chairgun to see how much the rise will be with different zeros. I don't want more than 1/4 inch so that determines my zero point. For my bullpups it is about 40 yards. Their issue is the first ~20 yards where they shoot low due to the really high scope. I cannot shoot at 40 yards in my backyard so I sight in at 25 or 33 and use the chairgun trajectory to tell me where I want to impact. I accept that this isn't going to be perfect. I also like to check POI at 5 yard intervals to back up chairgun.

I don't dial for greater distance unless I have a bunch of time and am target shooting. My $100-300 scopes just are not super at moving exactly the amount I click them. For hunting or plinking I just hold over.