Zero at different distances

No

My tablet (and radar) is always with me when I go to my shooting range. I am alternating two calibre guns (.22 and .25) between a fixed 50 or 100 meters, also a 22LR silouettes (multiple distances between 10 and 100).
StrelokPro is a very useful app for what you asking. It is a bit of a learning curve and need a play with it to learn what portion you need from a very robust capability. Initially I wrote down the numbers for clicks, but now I am just hold over/under and not toutching the turrets any longer.

Try Chairgun, free app.

Really depends on power settings, but easiest it to go shoot.

On a lower power my RedWolf is zeroed at 30 yards. Then my higher hunting power is zeroed at 50. Don't have to move dial at all.

Some of the charts or apps (Strelok, Chairgun, etc.) will give you a close approximation & put you in the neighborhood but unless you've set up your gun/scope/power settings for "clicking" there are too many variables involved. Every gun/ammo/power combo is different, even exact same combos will shoot differently. That's why there's no substitute for learning what your particular setup will do by shooting & familiarizing yourself with it. Take copious notes & keep shooting & sooner or later you will "meld" with that setup. Btw, I have one gun that was set up by Centercut for clicking & it's a laser (Bobcat .22) but I'm really a holdover/holdunder guy & love shooting that way.

Why do you need to figure that out beforehand? Seems like the tail wagging the dog?

You can get an approximation beforehand, but that will depend on how sophisticated your ballistics computation is. As mentioned, there are software packages that give you some approximation. But they may (or may not) know all the relevant details of your gun or the projectiles you are firing. And other than errors coming from the ballistics software, if your scope isn't level there's a good chance the ballistics software will be telling you data that isn't relevant to your gun, etc.

The pragmatic thing is to do all the zeroing yourself, manually. This is important since it's good practice. Invariably you will need to re-zero at some point, so might as well start practicing now.