FWB Sport Cracked stock

I think someone already tried it....but just my opinion. You don't need a gunsmith, you need a very talented wood worker. Preferrably one with gun stock experience.

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Airgunstocks.com
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The USPS broke an Anshutz 380 in half during shipment back east. They refused to pay the insurance. The buyer is an amazing woodworker and fixed it. The picture was before mailing.

If someone has attempted to glue the stock and got glue in the crack the job became more difficult and maybe impossible to repair. The crack needs to be opened up even if it means splitting the wood in two. Building a good clamp system is the most difficult part. Then picking the best adhesive. Long term (drying time) epoxy is needed. I trust JB Weld (black/white) but the grey color is unavoidable. If glued properly the repair will be stronger than the wood. A failed attempt will ruin the stock.
It appears the stock maker installed a pin through the pistol grip. If so this will aid in the repair.(clamping)

The pin looks like an original to me. Not a repair. Remove the pin and the crack should open right up. Inspect the crack for evidence of glue. (If there is glue then the glue must be removed by carefully scraping it out. All of it. Care around the edges will ensure a good joint). Remove any fibers that hinder a tight clamp up. Make a clamping system to hold both pieces perfectly tight. (Without the pin) Then install the pin to see if it alters the joint. When this is accomplished it’s ready for the adhesive.

Pretty much like Bear says. Gunsmiths do these repairs, but someone with woodworking experience can do it as well. I have done a couple repairs of this type on gunstocks. You first need to take the screw out. Then find a way to clamp the stock with the crack opened up, and with the crack closed. The crack should want to close up with mild pressure in this case. With the crack opened up you inject glue as deeply into the crack as possible with a syringe. Remove the clamping pressure and glue will squirt out, clean that off and clamp the crack closed.

Now it gets tricky. If you were able to find a way to clamp the crack closed without covering the crack, you can clean off the excess glue again. If you had to use inner tube bands to close the crack, the excess glue will squeeze out under the bands making a mess. Try to avoid using the bands. For this repair I would use a water base glue like Titebond to make cleaning up easier. I would also use tape and/or a release agent like wax on the finished areas to protect the finish. Since this crack is not the result of a stress applied during normal use, a good furniture grade glue will be strong enough. The repair will still be stronger than the wood itself. Any excess glue that works out during drying will usuall pop off the finished areas with a little pressure.

After the glue has dried, you can run the screw back in for additional reenforcement. The screw will not draw the crack closed unless there is a clearance hole on the head side of the crack. Even then it may not draw it up evenly. That is why the screw has to be removed first.

Each leg on this antique table was in three pieces before it was repaired. Not really hard to do. The hardest part is coming up with a clamping method.

I love Titebond glue but not for this repair. The only chairs I ever sold (42 years in the furniture business) that eventually did not need to be re-glued were ones glued with a commercial slow drying epoxy. Michiganander is correct about keeping access to the joint so it can be cleaned before the glue dries. Also correct about a water based glue being easier to work with and thinner to get a tight joint but I would worry over time that it would fail. For the cleanest joint and less obvious use Titebond. For the strongest use epoxy.
All trade offs.

Also worth remembering. If there is no evidence of damage to the stock (as a dent) that would have caused the crack then the wood in the area of the crack may be punky and no glue will ever fix it.
Could also be a windage split. This occurs especially on hardwoods (Beech) when the tree is over stressed in a wind storm. The wood just splits vertically in the trunk. Very hard to detect in the board form. Good loggers look for this damage and stay away from it. Caused me a lot of problems in Oak furniture for decades.

Honestly, the choice of glue will depend on whether or not the joint will close up tight when clamped. If it does, you can get by with Titebond. If it doesn't you will need a gap filling adhesive like epoxy. On the table, the fractures in the legs were glued with Titebond thirty years ago, but the dowels that hold them to the pedestal were glued with epoxy. I have followed this thinking for both furniture and gunstocks for many years and never had a problem.

To clamp the legs I had to make a form. For this stock you might be able to get by with a form on the inside of the wrist and bands. If the form is wider than the stock, the bands won't contact the glued areas.

Shotgun stock repaired many years ago with Titebond.

Michigander said:

Honestly, the choice of glue will depend on whether or not the joint will close up tight when clamped. If it does, you can get by with Titebond. If it doesn't you will need a gap filling adhesive like epoxy. On the table, the fractures in the legs were glued with Titebond thirty years ago, but the dowels that hold them to the pedestal were glued with epoxy. I have followed this thinking for both furniture and gunstocks for many years and never had a problem.

To clamp the legs I had to make a form. For this stock you might be able to get by with a form on the inside of the wrist and bands. If the form is wider than the stock, the bands won't contact the glued areas.

Shotgun stock repaired many years ago with Titebond.

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Good advice.

I've had to fix two airgun stocks cracked or broken at the pistol grip. The first one was my HW80S cracked when shipped from Krale in Holland, the second was a broken BAM B-26 broken when my son released the trigger when the gun was cocked and open.

Both times used Titetbond II and a wooden dowel, however in both instances everything was clean. The crack was glued and closed in a wood vise using "cushions" to hold the stock so pressure could be applied to the crack - then pinned afterwards. The clean break was glued using the same vise (easier to apply glue) and pinned later.

Both stocks were beach, so the real trick is trying to mask any lines or blemish as staining is always tricky.

nice