Too heavy or too light pellets ?

Your springer should have no problem with the 18gr pellets. Even the 21gr barracudas should be fine.

The 25.4gr Monster RDMs would probably shorten your spring and seal life.

Both pellets that are too light and too heavy will shorten spring/seal life but won't necessarily "damage" the rifle. Don't think too much about it. Most quality lead ammo will do just fine.
 
There are many threads talking about this over at the GTA website. "Charlie da' Tuna," one of the founders of GTA and the tuner that made a very popular drop in trigger upgrade, was the most outspoken on it there. I think he was a little extreme as he said it was a bad idea to shoot 10+ grain pellets out of a 12fpe springer. I don't think changing out a spring is that big of a deal, and I never saw someone that had a problem with it. Honestly my FWB124's like H&N FTT so I never shot enough 10+ grain pellets to find out but I know plenty of people that do. I don't remember what he considered heavy for .22 caliber but the point he was making was that he believed that quality springer airguns were optimized for a very limited weight range of pellet. I think that you need to shoot whatever you find to be the most accurate, period. If something wears or breaks, fix it, repeat.
 
I'm in agreement with Steve. Shoot your most accurate pellets and enjoy it. Sure, springs and piston seals will eventually wear out but usually after tens of thousands of pellets have gone downrange so no reason to let something so far away intrude on your enjoyment.

With that said, many times it works out that the magic pellet is one that produces something very close to max energy for a given spring or gas piston power plant. Logically it is an indication of where the power plant is working most efficiently, and less prone to piston bounce and vibration. More of the spring's stored energy is going into propelling the pellet. So if you want to get some sense of the optimum weight range for your particular rifle, simply chronograph a range of weights and look at the resulting energy for each. What you'll find is that very light and very heavy pellets produce less energy (FPE) than those in the middle.

If you are interested in the academic side of it, to my knowledge the most credible explanation for why too-light or too-heavy pellets are more stressful to a springer powerplant is made in Cardew's book "The Airgun: From Trigger to Target".

The progression is something like this:
1. A "too light" pellet starts moving too early which leaves an insufficient air cushion in front of the piston to help decelerate it, thus it slams into the end of the compression tube. This abrupt impact is stressful to both the seal and the spring.
2. A "just right" pellet allows the piston to come to a well-behaved stop at the end of the compression tube.
3. A "too heavy" pellet stays in place too long and the pressure builds much higher, causing the piston to bounce back off the cushion of air in front of it, forcing the front portion of the spring backward while the momentum of the back portion of the spring is still propelling it forward. That can cause coils somewhere in the middle to collide with each other. Meanwhile the elevated pressure simultaneously creates a greater temperature spike which promotes detonation of any trace hydrocarbons in the compression chamber, forcing an even more violent reversal of the spring and potentially cooking the seal.

In practice, there does appear to be a more violent recoil when using super light or super heavy pellets in most springers I've shot. And it stands to reason that given the relatively long dwell time a pellet spends in the barrel, these "extra vibrations" are not good for accuracy...even if we have no concern for the longevity of the spring and piston seal.
 
I was having a lot of issues with my first PCP. A very smart friend told me to purchase a chronograph. I have had this model for five years. I am pretty hard on stuff so it is tough. The kit is worth it and all of the items still function. Works well with smartphones via cord but not required. Always disconnect the battery when done!

 
Ditto what maxtrouble said. My Caldwell chrono works great with no problems after 3 years.

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When you shoot thought the chronograph can you be anywhere inside the rods or do you have to shoot at a certain height? I've heard numerous times you have to be at least 10' away but never how high or low within the rods.
The 10' rule is critical for firearms with the muzzle blast and all to consider. Also with firearms, Pretty much anywhere within the rods is OK. My experience with pellets is limited to sub-sonic 177 caliber. With that, if I have trouble with a read, I can get closer and lower. As close as 1 or 2 feet if I recall.
 
The 10' rule is critical for firearms with the muzzle blast and all to consider. Also with firearms, Pretty much anywhere within the rods is OK. My experience with pellets is limited to sub-sonic 177 caliber. With that, if I have trouble with a read, I can get closer and lower. As close as 1 or 2 feet if I recall.
So anywhere within the rods is acceptable ok thank you for the response.
 
By understanding the operating principle of a conventional chronograph, you can adapt as needed. Light from above casts a shadow from the pellet onto the sensors. Being too close can potentially cause the muzzle blast (water vapor from rapidly expanding and cooling air) to occlude the shadow. Shooting too high may potentially produce such a diffuse shadow that it will not be reliably picked up by the sensors.
 
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