Gwen's hot Hw30

Mycapt65 said:

This morning I put a replacement PG4 kit in my wife Gwen's Hw30. It was shooting fine but the cocking foot was carving into steel outer guide. I had Tom replace the kit. Trying to do me a favor he sent it to me lubed with Krytox. I've ordered my kits dry in the past because I use Krytox on some guns. Somehow he thinks I use Krytox all the time.

I typically don't use Krytox on Hw30s because you give up about ten fps over a clean running petroleum based gun. Gwen doesn't care about power so I leaned into it and converted the gun to Krytox.

When I first shot it. The shot cycle was as subdued as a mouse fart. I thought "ohhh great, what did I do? ". Scared the gun went backwards too far I broke out the chronograph. Pictured are the results
All groups are 5 shots except #25 which is 10 shots.
Top number = Avg fps
Middle number = Extreme Spread
Next number = Standard Deviation
Decimaled number is energy.

Overall the extreme spread is all over the place. This would might improve over time or with a new piston seal. The accuracy is ok at this short range so I'll wait and see what happens outside.

These numbers are abnormal. Her gun was running hot with the other kit in it. JSB 7.33 were running in the 720s when I broke it down. It probably had 1500 shots on it. I guess I'm posting this because I'm pleasantly surprised almost shocked how good it shoots at these power levels.

Be well
Ron

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Mycapt65 said:

This morning I put a replacement PG4 kit in my wife Gwen's Hw30. It was shooting fine but the cocking foot was carving into steel outer guide. I had Tom replace the kit. Trying to do me a favor he sent it to me lubed with Krytox. I've ordered my kits dry in the past because I use Krytox on some guns. Somehow he thinks I use Krytox all the time.

I typically don't use Krytox on Hw30s because you give up about ten fps over a clean running petroleum based gun. Gwen doesn't care about power so I leaned into it and converted the gun to Krytox.

When I first shot it. The shot cycle was as subdued as a mouse fart. I thought "ohhh great, what did I do? ". Scared the gun went backwards too far I broke out the chronograph. Pictured are the results
All groups are 5 shots except #25 which is 10 shots.
Top number = Avg fps
Middle number = Extreme Spread
Next number = Standard Deviation
Decimaled number is energy.

Overall the extreme spread is all over the place. This might improve over time or with a new piston seal. The accuracy is ok at this short range so I'll wait and see what happens outside.

These numbers are abnormal. Her gun was running hot with the other kit in it. JSB 7.33 were running in the 720s when I broke it down. It probably had 1500 shots on it. I guess I'm posting this because I'm pleasantly surprised almost shocked how good it shoots at these power levels.

Be well
Ron

View attachment 289584

Click to expand...

Mycapt65 said:

The it wasn't the edge it was further down the side of the steel guide. I've encountered this on a lot of the steel guide kits.. I've had it the most with the 30s and 50s and on some 95s and 80s. Bottom line is there isn't enough clearance and steel is the wrong material. I've installed lots of these kits and have been pushing Tom to go back to the PG2 style kits with closed ends and delrin outer guides.

On the 30s and 50s it's hit or miss on the interference. The cocking arm is stamped and folded with crude tolerances and finish at the foot. After bumping into this too many times I now grind down, contour and polish the cocking foot on every one of these rifles. You have to completely strip the gun to do it later.

On the Hw95s and 80s the older ones have a stamped single level steel shoe. These work just fine on the PG4 steel kits if you just lightly radius the edges and polish the underside of the shoe. When you install the kit you'll need to hold the shoe up against compression tube. Otherwise you'll bend the lip on the edge of the steel guide. I suggest sticking a tapered tip of a electrical tie wrap between the cocking arm and compression tube. This will hold the shoe out of the way.

The newer Hw95s and 80s have similar but different cast cocking shoes that are supported by the compression tube. Its important to use the right one. The one from the 80 fits nicely to the 95 but is thicker and had the wrong inside radius. It will carve up the inside of the tube and guide. I know, I made this mistake because Chambers Gunspares UK shows and ships the same part number for both guns. It's absolutely wrong and it f'd up my R9LE

Even with the correct shoe there's still some interference on some gun/kit combinations. It's best to lightly radius the edges and polish the underside of the shoe and check that it's not cutting into the guide. Tom has reduced the OD on the outer guide to alleviate the issue. I recommend you still check your clearances.

I still use the PG4 kits but they're not the drop in, plug and play kits the PG2s were. I've expanded my options with the ARH kits. Like the Vortek there's some things I like about them and some things I don't. None of those things are critical clearance issues that could potentially damage the gun. Until these clearance issues are resolved I'd recommend the ARH kits and a spring compressor to the novice who's not looking for power. The Vortek kits work very well and make good power but unless you have a good mechanical background I'd recommend farming the work out to someone who's familiar with the gun and kits.

HTH
Ron


Disclaim: I'm addressing Weihrauch guns only. I'm unfamiliar with any other brand and the kits made for them.

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Bear-of-Grayling said:

Sounds like “don’t fix it when it ain’t broke” Tom. I once lived fairly close to Tom and worked on developing the kit for the 55 leather seal. Never been to his place though. I’ve never used anything but the PG2 kits. I can see the problem you’re describing. Got another 30 on the way from the Netherlands and am planning another custom tune/stock for it.

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