Question about cleaning equipment, NOT cleaners or lubes

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I just spent about an hour sorting out cleaning supplies for my new air guns. I still had all the stuff I used on the powder guns and I knew most of it was no longer useful to me. I got my hands on a .177 cal cleaning rod with a few assorted tips locally from a friend. Then I pulled out all of the non recommended cleaners and lubes I had in my good cleaning box. I put only Pellgunoil, Crosman Silicone Chamber Oil, and a can of RemOil that I'll use only on the exterior of the gun.

I do have one question, though. I kept all the .22 cal cleaning rods and tips in the box. It's going to sound like a REALLY stupid question, but is there any reason I can't use the rods and tips I had for my .22 powder guns on .22 airguns? Common sense is telling me .22 cal is .22 cal. Before I shove anything down the barrel of this new Mod 25 Supercharger, I thought I'd ask the silly question. Right now, I just need to shove a couple of clean patches through the barrel to be sure there aren't any leftover metal shavings in the barrel.

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elh0102 said:
No reason at all, except using a rod is kind of unhandy with most rifles, since you have to remove the barrel to clean from the breech. I'd save the rod for the infrequent problem cases, and use a pull through for routine cleaning.
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+1 on the pull through. You should never have the need to ram a brush or a jag down an air gun barrel. Mine get a cleaning when I get them (either new or used) then usually once or twice a year when accuracy seems to fall off. Using nothing more than a pull through, a patch, and a little Ballistol. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
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I only have pistols, but I'm guessing the same thing is true whether rifle or pistol. OK, I need to get a pull though, I guess. I'll go order one as soon as I post this. I swore I used to have a snake for my .22 rifles. I guess I lost it somewhere along the line. Just figures. LOL!

Thanks, guys.
 
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HAH! Found it. I was on a site getting ready to buy a new snake and I suddenly remembered I had another cleaning kit assembled just for my .22 powder rifles. I had that kit stuffed away in a different closet. There was a Hoppe's .22 snake in that kit. Just pulled it through the Mod 25. I peered down the barrel before and after. There was definitely something in the barrel. No visible shavings came out. Maybe it was just dust.

Ca_Varminter said:
Not a Problem....
I use Tipton's Carbon Fiber Rods.. .177 cal.. on ALL my guns!!!
In use thread adapters, I can use the correct Jag and Nylon brushes for .177, .20 .22. and .30
For both Air and Powder Burners..
Just a general Tip:..... Always wipe down your cleaning rod before use!
To remove any collected Grit...
Click to expand...

I'll do a search for those rods in a few minutes. Thanks for that tip. I'm sure those will be better than the aluminum and brass rods I have now.
 
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Somethimes there actually is a need to use a rod with a brush in an airgun. One scenario is if you try out slugs, and if they are tight in the bore, they can smear the barrel with lead, which is diffucult to remove with a patch only. It can also happen if you shoot old dry pellets, which have no factory lube on them.
In thouse cases you might get the lead out with 50+ patches, but it is just easier to use a brush first, then patches. It probably depends on the barrel also.
But in normal conditions, where you shoot a pellet, which work fine, and doeas not smear the barrel, it usually is enough with a pullthrough with a patch.
 
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The only problem using a standard style Snake is that they usually have bronze bristles woven within. Those bristles will be hard on the O-Ring/s within the pellet/bolt area. They could either damage or remove any O-Ring within. Just a caution to not use the bronze bristled Snakes. They do make non-bronze bristled Snakes just for air guns by the way.
miike
 
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Revoman said:
The only problem using a standard style Snake is that they usually have bronze bristles woven within. Those bristles will be hard on the O-Ring/s within the pellet/bolt area. They could either damage or remove any O-Ring within. Just a caution to not use the bronze bristled Snakes. They do make non-bronze bristled Snakes just for air guns by the way.
miike
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Well, crap. My snake DOES have the bronze bristles.

Now, wait. The gun I just ran the snake through is my Mod 25 Supercharger break barrel. Is there and O-ring on that barrel I'm just not seeing? It sure looks like it's just the end of the barrel with no O-ring.Maybe I'm just not seeing it. Could one of you guys with a Mod 25 chime in here? I guess before I go any further, I need to study the gun and the parts diagram to see just exactly what is where. Damn! This is COMPLETELY different than shooting powder guns. I didn't realize there would be as big a learning curve as I'm seeing.

Now, if I could just get somebody to help me out with the Red Dot problem I ran into. Or maybe it's not a problem and I'm just not understanding the sight.
 
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smhardesty said:
Well, crap. My snake DOES have the bronze bristles.

Now, wait. The gun I just ran the snake through is my Mod 25 Supercharger break barrel. Is there and O-ring on that barrel I'm just not seeing? It sure looks like it's just the end of the barrel with no O-ring.Maybe I'm just not seeing it. Could one of you guys with a Mod 25 chime in here? I guess before I go any further, I need to study the gun and the parts diagram to see just exactly what is where. Damn! This is COMPLETELY different than shooting powder guns. I didn't realize there would be as big a learning curve as I'm seeing.

Now, if I could just get somebody to help me out with the Red Dot problem I ran into. Or maybe it's not a problem and I'm just not understanding the sight.
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Break barrel dont have an oring in the barrel they seal at the breech with an oring. Pcp rifles have an oring in the barrel or on the probe depending on the exact model. If it has the oring in the barrel its wise to remove it before running anything that could damage it thru the barrel.
 
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LDP said:
Napier makes a nice pull thru for airguns. Its flexible with a loop on the end for using patches. Rods are still useful as has been said for the times you need to do a more thorough cleaning but will require barrel removal to be done correctly. Depending on the airguns you have barrel removal can be quite easy.
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I don;t have a rifle. I have ONLY pistols. All I have to do is partially break the barrel on the Mod 25 to run either a snake or a rod through it..


LDP said:
Break barrel dont have an oring in the barrel they seal at the breech with an oring. Pcp rifles have an oring in the barrel or on the probe depending on the exact model. If it has the oring in the barrel its wise to remove it before running anything that could damage it thru the barrel.
Click to expand...

OK. Thanks. That's what I needed to know. As of right now, I have only a break barrel and the multi pump 1377. And also as of right now, I have no intention of owning a PCP. I'm pretty set in my decision to stick with either break barrel pistols or pump up pneumatic pistols. This is really nothing more than a part time hobby that will curb my urge to shoot something. LOL! I have a couple other hobbies that eat more money that air guns. I'm just trying to give myself a way to punch holes in paper, kill a few cans, and rid my yard of the occasional critters.
 
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smhardesty said:
Well, crap. My snake DOES have the bronze bristles.

Now, wait. The gun I just ran the snake through is my Mod 25 Supercharger break barrel. Is there and O-ring on that barrel I'm just not seeing? It sure looks like it's just the end of the barrel with no O-ring.Maybe I'm just not seeing it. Could one of you guys with a Mod 25 chime in here? I guess before I go any further, I need to study the gun and the parts diagram to see just exactly what is where. Damn! This is COMPLETELY different than shooting powder guns. I didn't realize there would be as big a learning curve as I'm seeing.

Now, if I could just get somebody to help me out with the Red Dot problem I ran into. Or maybe it's not a problem and I'm just not understanding the sight.
Click to expand...
They all have the bronze brushes embedded. Not a problem, just take your pliers and pull it out. That said, I think the snake is not the best option for pull through cleaning. It may take a little longer, but a series of clean patches with your preferred cleaner makes more sense to me. Bet you don't reuse toilet paper
 
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elh0102 said:
They all have the bronze brushes embedded. Not a problem, just take your pliers and pull it out. That said, I think the snake is not the best option for pull through cleaning. It may take a little longer, but a series of clean patches with your preferred cleaner makes more sense to me. Bet you don't reuse toilet paper
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HAH! No, you got me on that one. I'll have to agree with you. I'm still trying like hell to get a grip on what to use on these guns, where to use it, and what NOT to do. It's not as cut and dry as powder guns. There are about as many different thoughts/opinions on what to use and where to use it as Carter has pills. I just keep reading and trying to learn. As you might well expect, having only cleaned powder guns, I'm accustomed to doing a thorough cleaning after every time I shot one round through one of those guns and I definitely used a rod, first with a bronze bore brush and solvent, then with patchs and solvent, then dry patches, and after a dry patch came out with absolutely NO discoloration whatsoever, a patch lightly oiled. That was hammered into my head by my dad when I was younger, then by Uncle Sam. Seems the Army was pretty particular about how clean my M16 was. And then there were my REAL powder guns, as in smoke poles. I started on those with soap and water over a sink. I can still smell that rotten egg. LOL!

Thanks for the input. I really do appreciate it.
 
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smhardesty​

My apology, I should have clarified the O-Rings are normally only used in PCP guns. They must seal the airflow from leaving the barrel not going toward the muzzle.
Since you have breakers and they are pistols, it's different. However, you should at least keep this in mind for when (not if) you get yer first PCP!
mike
 
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For .177 i just use a strong nylon harness / sail thread and make my own " patch worm"

With that i can use brass wool, scotch Brite pad, patches .. thing is use strong cord, or thread.. you DONT want thins to snap 1/2 way in the barrel ( believe it! )

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smhardesty said:
I only have pistols, but I'm guessing the same thing is true whether rifle or pistol. OK, I need to get a pull though, I guess. I'll go order one as soon as I post this. I swore I used to have a snake for my .22 rifles. I guess I lost it somewhere along the line. Just figures. LOL!

Thanks, guys.
Click to expand...

Be aware that the loop type pull throughs might be difficult to use if you have a shrouded barrel with a wider open gap with ports cut in it, inside the shroud, between the barrel muzzle and the exit hole out of the muzzle end cap. If your shroud assembly also tensions your barrel, removing that can change your zero. I couldn't get a flexible pull through past that point from either the muzzle or the breech on any of my PCP guns, after dozens of tries. Because I don't want to change anything on my barrel and shroud when cleaning I use a weed eater pull through from the muzzle. If it has been stored in my case rolled up, I will straighten the first 6 inches or so by bending between my thumb and index finger in the opposite direction of the curve to make easier to jump the gap between the shroud cap and the barrel muzzle.
 
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Geezerhood said:
Be aware that the loop type pull throughs might be difficult to use if you have a shrouded barrel with a wider open gap with ports cut in it, inside the shroud, between the barrel muzzle and the exit hole out of the muzzle end cap. If your shroud assembly also tensions your barrel, removing that can change your zero. I couldn't get a flexible pull through past that point from either the muzzle or the breech on any of my PCP guns, after dozens of tries. Because I don't want to change anything on my barrel and shroud when cleaning I use a weed eater pull through from the muzzle. If it has been stored in my case rolled up, I will straighten the first 6 inches or so by bending between my thumb and index finger in the opposite direction of the curve to make easier to jump the gap between the shroud cap and the barrel muzzle.
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All you need is a straw. Put the straw into the shroud until it gets to the muzzle.
 
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LDP said:
All you need is a straw. Put the straw into the shroud until it gets to the muzzle.
Click to expand...

I would probably not have thought of that in 2 brazillion years. Thanks for the tip! Now to see if I can find a 22 cal straw. Are those stirring straws for coffee small enough (maybe too small?) to work with a .177 gun?

Edit:
Several straws on hand would fit on my Factor RC but nothing would go through the cap on my Prod. I will have to track down some smaller OD straws that I know are out there. Good to now know how to get a cord type pull through into the bore! I might still stick with the weed eater line rather than a cord type pull through because it is faster in use for me, and easier to make, plus I don't need a second item to make it work.
 
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