Pretty excited to turn my Impact into a Slugger!

Not a must for some Impacts and it helps others. It’s not a game changer or cure and it won’t make a bad gun good, but if you’ve experienced the effects of flex with your current platform, it will help.
That's what I heard. It will also give me the real-estate to try a top mounted GRS bipod. 🤘
 
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.22 caliber? I've shot Justin Welch's PRS gun shooting .22 NSA 31.2 at 1050 FPS and reg. at 180 bar with tungsten hammer and its an amazing shooter. I think he uses an older 700mm Slug A liner.
Yes, .22 caliber, power plenum, and I've got a Tungsten hammer floating around here somewhere :p
 
??? "...if you’ve experienced the effects of flex with your current platform..."
Sorry for my ignorant question, but what is a benchmark for a flex? Can you remove the barrel without some aggressive effort? If you feel any misalignment sliding it in or out = there was some human error assembling the Lego.
I am really picky for precision thingies and I toke my Impact apart so many times that one of the M3's strip of the thread in the RearBlock, I re-thread it for SS helicoil inserts, and still after "tons of abuse" never noticed "flexing" in the Impact structure. Removing my liners for cleaning, when back to the game next day at the range maybe 2-3 clicks on the turrets (@100) that is all for more then a year.
Maybe I am just lucky, but I think the handling is playing as well.
Beside all of this I am also eyeing the Upper Plate, but maybe the next invention. I would prefer a combination of two recent designs, a full length bar with front upper + side/angled picatinies, so I can go "above the barrel bipods" with side rails.
 
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I think the AM BB rail is the best aftermarket piece ever made yet for the impact. It’s not about bling, and it’s not about power. It adds ridgidity(if that’s a word)to the impact platform.

Before, with my impact set up on a Caldwell turret rest and the M6 socket head bolt loose(that is at the trigger block and it’s duty is to clamp tight to the front of the PP), the barrel installed, and the top factory rail tightened down, I would still need to raise the rear block a smidge before tightening on that M6 socket if I wanted the gap between the bottom of the barrel and the top of the PP to be parallel, or equal between the two.

If I didn’t do that then that meant the front flat of the PP sat tilted ever so slightly against the rear of the trigger block. I’m sure the added weight of the saber tactical adjustable shoulder butt had to do with that
 
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