Known good fill station US made SCBA tank

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Geezerhood

Geezerhood

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Aug 16, 2022
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Southern, Utah, USA
I have a used Scott SCBA tank on the way. I believe it has the standard US CGA347 threaded fitting This photo is supposed to be what is on the tank now:

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If someone could recommend a medium priced adapter on ebay or amazon you have actually used, that has a bleed valve, gun side pressure gauge and a whip with female quick connect, it would be appreciated. I would like a whip that is longer than 60 cm / 2 feet if possible.

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Send a pm to JKING. He puts together a nice fill station. Is it cheaply made? No. Quality fittings and hoses. Is it the most expensive? Heck no. You can easily spend $200 on a fill station set up. Jimmy’s is way less than that, and you get something that’ll last.

My first fill station was like $40 or $50, and looking back compared to the better ones I have now, there’s a difference. Think compactness and easily portable in a small range box, which it’s not, and think easily read gages, and it’s not.
 
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L.Leon said:
I have a Stikman and while not inexpensive. It is a high quality fill station. Which you can do cascade fills with. Mine has been flawless. I would definitely buy again. I also have a unit like you’ve pictured. They both get it done. But the Stikman is a superior product.
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+1 , have the stikman and cascade setup, such a nice piece, also use the one pictured to fill my bottles while filling with my compressor, also works!
 
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thats the one i use ... i replaced the junk hose with a male foster and use my good microbore hose with females on both ends for everything ... depending on use, most cheaper fill stations will 'seep' air if used in say a tether capacity .. loctite 545 is your friend with things like that, apply and let it set for a week for best results ...
 
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CTairgunner1288 said:
+1 , have the stikman and cascade setup, such a nice piece, also use the one pictured to fill my bottles while filling with my compressor, also works!
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+2 on the Stikman. Have used several fill systems & this is my favorite. Not cheap but wish I would've spent a little extra up front & tried it first.
 
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I got my fill set for my used Scott tank from Joe Brancatto. I tried a cheap Chinese fill set first and it leaked badly. No issues with the replacement. I modified the valve handle on the Scott tank slightly too to eliminate the need to pull out or push in (can't remember which) to turn the valve. It was just a matter of taking the handle off and eliminating some unnecessary parts. It is now very easy to finely modulate the airflow. Works great.
 
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JimD said:
I got my fill set for my used Scott tank from Joe Brancatto. I tried a cheap Chinese fill set first and it leaked badly. No issues with the replacement. I modified the valve handle on the Scott tank slightly too to eliminate the need to pull out or push in (can't remember which) to turn the valve. It was just a matter of taking the handle off and eliminating some unnecessary parts. It is now very easy to finely modulate the airflow. Works great.
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Another good tip. Thanks. I remember reading that the knobs are kind of hard to control the flow as built. I will definitely check out that mod.

I saw another tip on YouTube where a 6mm, or other appropriately sized ball bearing is placed inside the air channel inside on one or both sides of the valve itself or on the fill station body, to reduce the volume of flow to a more manageable level. Might not work with all valves. The 2nd method he shows doesn't seem like it would let enough air through without a hole in the set screw, but I guess enough gets past the threads since there isn't a seal of any kind. If the flow wasn't enough with the set screw you could drill a micro hole through the set screw with a number drill or cut a small air channel in the threads with a thin cutoff wheel on a Dremel. I am going to try the ball bearing method first if I find I need a reduction in flow.

 
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