Tuning Vortek 'SHO' for HW50S in .177?

My suggestion is to chrono your rifle before installing the new KIT so that you have a benchmark to compare to for whichever Vortek one you use.

I've installed several HW50 HO and SHO kits. I didn't realize he still offered both. He's flip flopped definition and nomenclature over the years. The HO kit used to make stock power. Which is either side of 12 fpe depending on caliber . The SHO made 14 fpe in 22 and 13 plus in 17. Tom is a good guy he'll take your call during business hours and address any questions. I'd hang tight on installing it until you speak with him.

numbertwo said:

I recently received an Vortek 'SHO' HW50S tuning kit (PG4, including piston seal) acquired for installation into a new .177 caliber HW50S.

Has anyone installed an SHO kit into a .177 rifle before? The order I placed from Vortek indicated that the kit offered (PG4) was 'HO' and the kit I got actually has a different part number from what was listed on the website.

I don't have a problem with using the kit but don't want to install the wrong kit for my application (.177), if the SHO kit is intended for larger caliber applications (.20, .22).

I have a contact message in to Vortek but have not received any response (Sunday). Any info from experienced installers/tuners appreciated, thanks in advance!

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There’s no difference between.177 and.22 in the kits. There is a difference in compression tube size, the older ones were 25 mm instead of 26mm like the new ones. You might have gotten a kit for the old version, check the stock number on the website or measure it. Be ready to cut some coils, they come super hot.

PEP3 said:

There’s no difference between.177 and.22 in the kits. There is a difference in compression tube size, the older ones were 25 mm instead of 26mm like the new ones. You might have gotten a kit for the old version, check the stock number on the website or measure it. Be ready to cut some coils, they come super hot.

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Tom's HW50 kits are for 26mm tubes. The very old and rare 25mm tube HW50s would likely use the HW55 kit. IIRC the the 55 was the lower powered target version of the 25mm 50.

As to the matter at hand. As I thought, I don't see a HW50 SHO kit even offered anymore. The SHO kits were very stout. They were typically recommended for larger calibers only because the shot cycle was unpleasant and accuracy suffered in 177. Even stock or with HO kit the HW50 is noticeably smoother in 22 as are most springers are, especially when power is increased. IMO 11-12fpe is about the right mix of manners and power on the HW50.

Keep in mind without a seal change and dieseling the Vortek kit's start out a little hot and will lose a half pound of energy in the first few thousand shots. It will plateau there for a long long time. I've had Vortek springs last tens of thousands of rounds. That's as long as you don't dry fire or have excessive dieseling or detonation.

Another thing if you use the Vortek piston seal, they start off very tight and take a few hundred shots and a couple day's to loosen up. Basically this means the guns power could start off low, climb high as the seal conforms and sink again as the spring settles in. If you improperly clean, nick the seal or improperly lube the gun, it will diesel and that can easily add a pound of energy.

Bottom line energy levels could be anywhere out the gate. Don't start cutting coils right away and do everything you can to prevent dieseling. I'd recommend you put 500 pellets through it before making a decision to crop the spring. If it's still dieseling noticably after 200 shots, I tear them down, look for seal cuts, mop them out and try again. Dieseling is good for power but bad for accuracy and tough on seals and springs.

HTH
Ron

numbertwo said:

Thanks for the replies!

I ordered and received kits for both HW50S & HW30S and there is a visible difference in the size of the two included piston seals, with the HW50S being larger. My HW30S kit is 'HO' as printed on the kit label, whereas the HW50S kit is labeled 'SHO'.

I know I won't be cutting any coils; I would rather acquire a different spring before that. If I don't hear from Vortek this week I'll try a phone call for advice. Ultimately I'm installing a Vortek kit in the HW50S, SHO or HO.

I'm planning kit installation on the HW30S this week, along with mounting a Williams FP-AG-TK sight. Bugbuster 3x12-32 for the HW50S.

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I recently installed the vortek HO kit and seal in my HW30s, following Mycapt 65 advice. Use very little, less than you might think, lube on the seal edges, mop out the old lube completely. It took my gun a tin of pellets to settle in after. Now I am very happy with its accuracy and shot cycle. I have a bugbuster 3-12x on it, and like the combination. I am considering getting a HW50s, but may take a chance on a HW57 in 177. I think any output much over 11.5 FPE on a HW50 would make the gun jumpy and many seem happy with 10.5 to 11 FPE as the sweet spot. Have fun!

Just call him it'll be quicker.
+17346480620

Mycapt65 said:

Tom's HW50 kits are for 26mm tubes. The very old and rare 25mm tube HW50s would likely use the HW55 kit. IIRC the the 55 was the lower powered target version of the 25mm 50.

As to the matter at hand. As I thought, I don't see a HW50 SHO kit even offered anymore. The SHO kits were very stout. They were typically recommended for larger calibers only because the shot cycle was unpleasant and accuracy suffered in 177. Even stock or with HO kit the HW50 is noticeably smoother in 22 as are most springers are, especially when power is increased. IMO 11-12fpe is about the right mix of manners and power on the HW50.

Keep in mind without a seal change and dieseling the Vortek kit's start out a little hot and will lose a half pound of energy in the first few thousand shots. It will plateau there for a long long time. I've had Vortek springs last tens of thousands of rounds. That's as long as you don't dry fire or have excessive dieseling or detonation.

Another thing if you use the Vortek piston seal, they start off very tight and take a few hundred shots and a couple day's to loosen up. Basically this means the guns power could start off low, climb high as the seal conforms and sink again as the spring settles in. If you improperly clean, nick the seal or improperly lube the gun, it will diesel and that can easily add a pound of energy.

Bottom line energy levels could be anywhere out the gate. Don't start cutting coils right away and do everything you can to prevent dieseling. I'd recommend you put 500 pellets through it before making a decision to crop the spring. If it's still dieseling noticably after 200 shots, I tear them down, look for seal cuts, mop them out and try again. Dieseling is good for power but bad for accuracy and tough on seals and springs.

HTH
Ron

View attachment 341918

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Tom at Vortek sent Tom Gaylord the wrong kit for his HW50. If they send him the wrong kit, us laymens are fair game for getting the wrong kit, just saying. I was assuming he would chrony before he started cutting coils. Mine came out at 14 ft lbs, and my dumbass thought I would try it but harsh firing cycle and no way to keep the stock screws in I cut 2 coils off and it's at 12.7 now.