Oh if you haven't already, purchase the breech o-rings at the same time, you'll need them, a high wear item, also might as well get the O-rings for the transfer port, it's easier to pull the barrel to replace the breech o-ring, IMHO
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FX Fx Maverick Compact .25 arrived today with qc problems
- Thread starter sparker
- Start date
Maybe they changed the part number? That didn't come up, but the same diameter shows here: https://www.mcmaster.com/96445K197
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They already showed up. The package has the same part number you posted, but that part number doesn’t exist.
I can’t believe they showed up next day.
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No personal call, I'm shocked. I've ordered 200 little bags, now to build kits, grab a bag and fix a reg. The joys of FX. Both of mine decided to start gaining pressure over night, not a big deal but it's getting worse so maybe it is a big deal,They already showed up. The package has the same part number you posted, but that part number doesn’t exist.
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I’d rather deal with a leaky fx than most other brand guns. Maybe a Crosman even. What do they both have in common? Great customer service and of equal importance is parts availability. You go buy a cricket(example only) and decide you need to fix a leak good luck. Who you gonna call? Parts diagrams? Good luck. Plan on sending it out that’s for sure.
It’s not apples to apples comparing servicing an AR to a upper tier pcp like an FX. Two different worlds. Guys from the powder world come here thinking “an air gun? PFFFTTT!” And then get frustrated at the first problem they encounter and try and compare the inner workings to the AR’s they “built”. Then the cost comparison comes up. There’s a reason pcp’s cost more- more machining, tighter tolerances, a lot more engineering, period. Not taking away from a guy dedicated to shooting powder burners as if they get into high performance reloading way past the RCBS rock chucker starter kit that, too, can get involved.
My advice to the frustrated folks is one, thank your lucky stars theres folks on this great forum willing to assist, two, you were fortunate enough to afford buying an FX, and three- understand you’re dealing with a weapon that uses high, high pressure air, air that is being contained by a lot of o rings. If you get a brand new one with a leak, guess what? You got a three year warranty with that FX. Send it in, or, role up them sleeves snd fix it yourself.
My impacts I already know and accept at any day I could see the pressure gage low, meaning I have a leak. I store all my guns at max fill pressure. If it leaks, I look at it as an opportunity to install new o rings and gain access to areas that need specialty lubing. When I’m done, the gun is sweet again.
As far as taking tune and fix it advice for your gun, stay away from any knucklehead doing YouTube vids on their FX’s except for three people- Ernest Rowe, 910 airgunning with Newman Buck, and the UK guy who you only see his hands, the sub 12 ft lb guy.
As far as advice from folks on here, check their post count/history. You want solid advice from a been there done that sort of fellow, not someone that learned how to halfway tune his gun from a video two days before and is giving advice like he’s known it all along.
Lastly- enjoy that fx gun. When it’s all good and trouble free and you see what it’s capable of, you’ll be glad you own one.
I started with a marauder, then a Hatsan, and after I bought my first FX, I won’t ever buy another. I’m up to five fx guns.
I do own an LCS, and I just had to have a specialty gun such as that, as I fear one day semi/full auto’s may be taken away
Good luck in solving your issue. Hogkiller is giving sound advice
It’s not apples to apples comparing servicing an AR to a upper tier pcp like an FX. Two different worlds. Guys from the powder world come here thinking “an air gun? PFFFTTT!” And then get frustrated at the first problem they encounter and try and compare the inner workings to the AR’s they “built”. Then the cost comparison comes up. There’s a reason pcp’s cost more- more machining, tighter tolerances, a lot more engineering, period. Not taking away from a guy dedicated to shooting powder burners as if they get into high performance reloading way past the RCBS rock chucker starter kit that, too, can get involved.
My advice to the frustrated folks is one, thank your lucky stars theres folks on this great forum willing to assist, two, you were fortunate enough to afford buying an FX, and three- understand you’re dealing with a weapon that uses high, high pressure air, air that is being contained by a lot of o rings. If you get a brand new one with a leak, guess what? You got a three year warranty with that FX. Send it in, or, role up them sleeves snd fix it yourself.
My impacts I already know and accept at any day I could see the pressure gage low, meaning I have a leak. I store all my guns at max fill pressure. If it leaks, I look at it as an opportunity to install new o rings and gain access to areas that need specialty lubing. When I’m done, the gun is sweet again.
As far as taking tune and fix it advice for your gun, stay away from any knucklehead doing YouTube vids on their FX’s except for three people- Ernest Rowe, 910 airgunning with Newman Buck, and the UK guy who you only see his hands, the sub 12 ft lb guy.
As far as advice from folks on here, check their post count/history. You want solid advice from a been there done that sort of fellow, not someone that learned how to halfway tune his gun from a video two days before and is giving advice like he’s known it all along.
Lastly- enjoy that fx gun. When it’s all good and trouble free and you see what it’s capable of, you’ll be glad you own one.
I started with a marauder, then a Hatsan, and after I bought my first FX, I won’t ever buy another. I’m up to five fx guns.
I do own an LCS, and I just had to have a specialty gun such as that, as I fear one day semi/full auto’s may be taken away
Good luck in solving your issue. Hogkiller is giving sound advice
Thanks for the long post. I'm not going to reply to every bit of it, but I just want to say I take the point about PCPs being more complex than ARs and that is obviously true. That's still no excuse for FX sending out a $1600 gun with visible defects in the regulators. They even said so themselves, so there's not much argument there. If something goes bad through wear and tear that's when I'm ready to roll my sleaves up, not at delivery.
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I've been digging deeper into the FX Mavericks o-rings and I've found that there are serious errors in both the online schematic AND the schematic they send with an o-ring orders.
The schematic sent has different hardness's i.e. NBR90 instead of NBR70, this makes sense except one is several mm thicker/cross section than possible in it's location. The on-line schematic has the old durometer numbers but the right sizes. Numbers below correspond to the online schematic for location, but the hardness is from the newer schematic/list dated 2022
13) 10.0 x 1.5 NBR90 inside Regulator hole at bottom of threads
18) 7.5 x 2 NBR70 Regulator Body
20) 4.0 x 1.5 NBR90 End of Piston
23) 4.0 x 1.5 NBR90 Inside Regulator Body
25) 2.0 x 1.0 NBR90 (2x) Adjustment Screw,
suggestion heat in boiling water slip on first one, then second one, or if you have a witches hat it’s easier.
If you have a 3d printer and would have my everlasting gratitude you could print up a few of them. And no, heating them doesn't mess them up, they return to shape. I sacrificed my sanity and just replaced them on one of my Mavericks today.
The schematic sent has different hardness's i.e. NBR90 instead of NBR70, this makes sense except one is several mm thicker/cross section than possible in it's location. The on-line schematic has the old durometer numbers but the right sizes. Numbers below correspond to the online schematic for location, but the hardness is from the newer schematic/list dated 2022
13) 10.0 x 1.5 NBR90 inside Regulator hole at bottom of threads
18) 7.5 x 2 NBR70 Regulator Body
20) 4.0 x 1.5 NBR90 End of Piston
23) 4.0 x 1.5 NBR90 Inside Regulator Body
25) 2.0 x 1.0 NBR90 (2x) Adjustment Screw,
suggestion heat in boiling water slip on first one, then second one, or if you have a witches hat it’s easier.
If you have a 3d printer and would have my everlasting gratitude you could print up a few of them. And no, heating them doesn't mess them up, they return to shape. I sacrificed my sanity and just replaced them on one of my Mavericks today.
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I’m not surprised. I mentioned to the FX rep that know the max pressure limit of the refs would be a good idea to include in the manual. He laughed and said they have bigger issues.
I have a 3d printer, I’d be glad to give it a shot.
I have a 3d printer, I’d be glad to give it a shot.
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How do these washer stacks look? I just pulled them out, and they don't look the same to me. Left is #2 Right is #1
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So FX was aware of the issue, talked to the tech again today. He said it's a bad batch of pistons that had too much delrin material. You can see the difference in the picture, it's pretty obvious.
Problem is they sent the wrong friggin o-rings, so I have another few days of paperweight. So far I'm just not impressed at all.
Problem is they sent the wrong friggin o-rings, so I have another few days of paperweight. So far I'm just not impressed at all.
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The proper setup for the washers is ...from top to bottom. )()()()()()
Go to McMaster Carr and get your own washers. Sort them by size with digital calipers on the very edge, I can give you the thickness average for pressures , you want them as matched as possible.
Go to The O-Ring Store and order bags of the o-rings in the proper sizes per my list, they're cheap and you'll have enough for years.
I've been digging deeper into the FX Mavericks o-rings and I've found that there are serious errors in both the online schematic AND the schematic they send with o-ring orders.
The schematic sent has different hardness's i.e. NBR90 instead of NBR70, this makes sense except one is several mm thicker than possible in it's location. The on-line schematic has the old durometer numbers but the right sizes. Numbers below correspond to the online schematic.
13) 10.0 x 1.5 NBR90 inside Regulator hole at bottom of threads
18) 7.5 x 2 NBR70 Regulator Body
20) 4.0 x 1.5 NBR90 End of Piston
23) 4.0 x 1.5 NBR90 Inside Regulator Body
25) 2.0 x 1.0 NBR90 (2x) Adjustment Screw, suggestion heat rings in boiling water slip on first one, then second one, or if you have a witches hat it’s easier. If you have a 3d printer and would have my everlasting gratitude you could print up a few of them. And no, heating them doesn't mess them up, they return to shape.
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I got the washers already, sorted them as you previously said, and arranged them in that order as I saw in a previous thread. I'm waiting for the o-rings, this is just annoying as all hell right now.
Do you have a link to the 3d printer file? I'd be glad to print it for you, you've been super helpful.
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No, I can give dimensions based on a wild ass guess of something that may work., basically a cone with the minor diameter the id of the o-ring and the major OD.004" or so larger than the OD of the piston, with a hole in that end say .010" deep to slide over the piston. Guessing at a 1" OAL should do it. I can trig it out if need be. Those NBR 90's are fragile, I'd still heat them up.
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For me the piston orings are fine, I lost the orings on the adjuster screw.
I’ve never made my own 3d files but I bet I can figure it out.
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Just looking at Ernest Rowe's video, he shows it as NBR 70 and just slips it right over the top
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Depends on when the video was made, my updated list was from 2022. The BORG mothership must have had a reason or they wanted to mess with us. My gut feeling, oh those darn bean burritos, is the softer ones would leak, I've never had that issue but....something to keep in mind.
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FX just told me to add a washer to go up in pressure, any downside to that?
Edit: Just reassembled everything and the adjuster screw is still coming out the same amount, just past flush with the housing. FX claimed it shouldn't be the washers, but also agreed to send me some in case.
I measured the washers in there and they were [email protected] [email protected] and [email protected]
All of the 50 washers I got from McMaster-Carr were .37mm-.40mm so they're not any help. I just did what FX said and added a 12th washer at .4mm like ()()()()()() and I was able to hit 130 bar with the screw still being slightly recessed, almost flush. The first reg is just a bit out past flush with a 12th washer at 160 bar.
I'm going to shoot it now. Hopefully the washers coming from FX are heavier than ones I bought.
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I've tried that and it was a waste of time, going with heavier Belleville's and matching them gives you an increase AND consistency. I got 2 at .6 out of 60 or so. .048 AVG should give you a range of 75-125, .53 avg is a MINIMUM of 117, haven't looked for the max on it but I'd guess pushing 170. Now I will say that something was plugged up in my system. I tore out both regs, and the #2 gauge, hosed out the lines with contact cleaner then use my air compressor to blow every which way, re-assembled and butt-kiss. Swapped the regs around and I STILL couldn't get the pressure I needed 90bar. They sent me new reg parts and lo and behold things started working, THAT is when I got serious about the washers. I don't like having the adjuster too high up, it's a recipe for a leak. The FX washers will be all over the place also, unless they are having them made specially, out of flat ground steel sheet, for them which I doubt. With only the thickest ones and not adding one, you should be a minimum of 115ish if my experiments are somewhere near correct.
I'll be interested to see what they send you.
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Why waste of time? I mean, it got me an extra 30 bar with the screw in the same spot. Consistency in what? Meaning more consistent shot to shot pressure?
Problem is the heaviest washer in that bunch of 60 was .41 so it didn't really help. I found this https://www.mcmaster.com/91235A612/ they're .5 thick but they're called "spring lock washer" not sure if that matters but they look the same.
The thickest ones were the ones that came with it and max was about 115ish flush with the housing. Hopefully they send some heavier ones.
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