HW/Weihrauch Weihrauch & Proper Screwdrivers

You only need 3 or 4 sizes to work on a Weihrauch. I use a regular type straight slot cabinet driver for the trigger spring screw (a magnetic driver won't reach through the guard) and you may never need the T8. Maybe just buy those few and use a magnetic driver you already have. For most people most of the bits in a "fit all guns" kit collect dust.
My 3 sizes are

This one , that one , and a hammer 😉
( sometimes i just turn this one or that one around and use there handles as a hammer )

Your getting close to turkey day deals / black Friday youll find a wheeler toque driver / bit set on a nice sale then grab one . Then your pretty much covered butt to muzzle
 
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Unless I'm not seeing it right in the photo. The Grace driver's are wedge tip. Wedge tip will work but gunsmiths use hollow ground tips. They have significantly better bite in machine screws. Your less likely to deform screw heads with hollow ground tips.
All the drivers I purchased were specific gunsmithing tools. I hope. Crow
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All you will ever need and made in America. The bits are made to fail BEFORE the screw gets buggered when used properly.
I've passed on more springers etc... because of buggered screw heads then I can count. It tells me all I need to know.
Joe
 
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I guess a guy just picks there one they like .. big thing in some teviews on the screwdrivers like the grace guys saying snapped blades ? I guess that can be with any thing . I snap or twist a fee here ..any branded ..lol

Now i was reading a thread on a hard to get out / tight screw. Is take the driver bit and chuck it up in a drill press and use the press to hold down centered pressure on the screw and turn the chuck by hand .
That would be far better then fighting by hand and getting off center that the screwdriver slips or somthing ..

I got a hand held impact driver you tap with a small ( or large) hammer that does well in a emergency.
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I guess a guy just picks there one they like .. big thing in some teviews on the screwdrivers like the grace guys saying snapped blades ? I guess that can be with any thing . I snap or twist a fee here ..any branded ..lol

Now i was reading a thread on a hard to get out / tight screw. Is take the driver bit and chuck it up in a drill press and use the press to hold down centered pressure on the screw and turn the chuck by hand .
That would be far better then fighting by hand and getting off center that the screwdriver slips or somthing ..

I got a hand held impact driver you tap with a small ( or large) hammer that does well in a emergency.
View attachment 386038
A good tap or two can be the difference. The perfect fitting head is important also. This is why one can’t have enough to pick from. If the bit doesn’t go all the down to the bottom of the slot or there is side-to-side slop, damage can occur. The drill press idea is great. Just don’t forget to unplug it. 😂
 
I guess a guy just picks there one they like .. big thing in some teviews on the screwdrivers like the grace guys saying snapped blades ? I guess that can be with any thing . I snap or twist a fee here ..any branded ..lol

Now i was reading a thread on a hard to get out / tight screw. Is take the driver bit and chuck it up in a drill press and use the press to hold down centered pressure on the screw and turn the chuck by hand .
That would be far better then fighting by hand and getting off center that the screwdriver slips or somthing ..

I got a hand held impact driver you tap with a small ( or large) hammer that does well in a emergency.
View attachment 386038
Those are a very handy tool. But I never used one on a Weihrauch. Weihrauch screws are mere child's play.
This 1906 "BSA AIR RIFLE" tap stop screw was buggered so badly the driver would just ramp right out. It was BAD. To further complicate the issue, the screw has a tapered seat and had probably been in there well over 100 years! It was very tight. Hopeless. Until I rigged up my impact driver and gave it a couple wacks. It gave in.
Then I carefully(skillfully?) peened the metal back into shape before holding it in my lathe to restore the shape with a file and polish a little bit. The slot is not perfect but you would never guess the horrible condition it once had been in. Was then cold blued.
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I needed a trigger for this gun and found one at Protek Supplies UK. But it was still in the trigger block with a badly buggered screw and the trigger block was still attached to the stock. They sold me the whole assembly reasonably because they couldn't get it apart. The Butt plate screw were so tight in the stock after a century they couldn't remove them.
After receiving the assembly I had it apart with the impact driver in minutes. And was left with several valuable and scarce spares including a stock and trigger screw that I was able to restore as done above. Try even finding a trigger for a pre WW1 BSA and let me know how you make out. I have searched for certain parts for years before finding them. The butt plate and screws were not really damaged during the process.
I keep several worn screwdrivers around for if/ when I come across a screw for which I don't have a proper fitting driver I can hollow grind my own in minutes. Sometimes the bits in the kits don't quite fit right.
 
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Always nice to have the proper equipment:cool:
View attachment 386584
I'm a big fan of the Chapman stuff. Excellent stuff, I believe lifetime warranty and made in Connecticut. I order it directly to maximize their profits. I ordered an extra #19 bit for locking up the Weihrauch pivot bolt assemblies.

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I like tools almost as much as air guns. I ordered the Chapman set. Ironically, when I originally went to buy drivers I was getting Chapman’s but was swayed to Wheeler. Like the US made. Crow
The Chapman are much better made than the Wheeler. My wheeler scope mounting set and Fat wrench came with bits. I've had bits from both Wheeler sets break unduly. I'm not sure if these included bits are the same as their full sets, but these certainly looked and failed like Chinese schlok.
That's just my experiences. Ymmv
 
The Chapman are much better made than the Wheeler. My wheeler scope mounting set and Fat wrench came with bits. I've had bits from both Wheeler sets break unduly. I'm not sure if these included bits are the same as their full sets, but these certainly looked and failed like Chinese schlok.
That's just my experiences. Ymmv
VERY interesting. The first specialized gun screwdrivers I ever bought were the small Chapman set that Beeman sold back in the day. The machining and material quality of the bits are the best I've ever seen. Also cleverly designed; note the knurled ends allowing use without a handle for delicate close-in jobs.

My only complaint was the smallish selection of bit sizes in that set, well chosen but not comprehensive, which is why I got the Brownell's set. But, now I see that Chapman DOES make a bigger gunsmith set, with more bits! I will be checking that out. Chapman's Allen-head set is also great BTW. I have one and have used it for many years.

Even the famous Brownell's set has less than perfect precision. I've actually bought two of some of the bigger bits - the variation in their blade thickness sometimes comes in handy.
 
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My 3 sizes are

This one , that one , and a hammer 😉
( sometimes i just turn this one or that one around and use there handles as a hammer )

Your getting close to turkey day deals / black Friday youll find a wheeler toque driver / bit set on a nice sale then grab one . Then your pretty much covered butt to muzzle
Wheeler driver has soft bits , they strip easily , the bit is soft , maybe so it doesn't strip the screw ? had to buy a set of better harder bits . the torque handle works great
 
I just got the Wheeler set in the mail - the bits seem decent - the case isn't great. May pick up some Chapman sets at some point, but the Wheeler set should work just fine.
decent bits , but the smaller size used for scope rings round out after a short time .