What distance do you zero your scope?

How does everybody sight in their scope? I like to zero at the top of my trajectory so there is no confusion of holding under/over at shorter or longer distances than the “second zero”. My single zero is at 35 yds. which is at the top of the projectile’s trajectory before it begins falling. So if I have a shot either shorter or farther than my zero, I know I always have to hold over for either. There have been hunting situations in the heat of the moment when I have missed shots because I held the opposite than what I should have for the shorter shots. So to make it easy to remember, I decided to go with a single zero, rather than a first and second zero
(i.e. 1st &20 yds & 2nd @50yds). This also helps if you have a mechanical zero stop on your scope that doesn’t allow you to set it in the opposite direction of your actual zero, like the Arkens that I have. Of course there is a consideration of how far you stretch out your range and how much elevation adjustment or holdover points on your reticle that are available, whether you dial or hold over for distance. I shoot pellets and rarely shoot past 100yds so this works for me. Anyone else do this?
 
I used to zero for 35 yards but I have been shooting so many 30 yard challenge targets it is easier to just zero at 30 yards. 30 is the point that Scott is suggesting for my rifles as they are currently tuned (except for the Prod it is zero'd at about 25). For hunting I can see some logic in a little bit longer zero and just ignoring a small mid path rise. But for target shooting I think avoiding hold unders make sense and it doesn't really hurt anything for hunting either. You don't really gain much "ignore it" range with a bit longer zero point. For me it's about 20-40 yards which is a very useful area for airgun hunting around here.
 
I use a cross at 10m to zero first . Then it and 50y is pretty close , but if at say 30y im hight but want that zero i just shoot , measurer, and click down the amount of clicks needed at 30 ( 1/4'@100y) or whatever your click value is = to for 30y . Not many shots needed or wasted quick and easy.
 
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I use a collimator to rough it in and determine whether the rifle will need shims or an adjustable or drooper type mount. Once I have an equal amount of elevation adjustment travel from center I use the pellet I've determined works best in said gun for my intended use and zero from the bench on paper at 30 yards. All my scoped rifles are zeroed at that distance.
 
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I let the Strelok program set the range for my speed and allowable trajectory diameter (using the "MRD" calculator.
Such as .6" diameter vital zone at the velocity per chrono = 55 yards recommended zero (far distance) and 26 yard zero (close distance). This keeps the pellet within the .6" diameter vital zone set.
So, there is no adjustment throughout that range of 26-55 yards.
Over 55 yards, obviously, I would need to compensate by dialing 'UP' my scope.
 
I go against the grain a little bit here and zero almost every airgun based off power level: Anything under 12ftlbs gets a 20 yard zero, anything 12-30ftlbs gets a 25 yard zero, and anything over 30ftlbs gets 30 yard zero, unless I am using slugs (recent change) I zero for 40-50 yards.
Not scientific, but just simple experience and experiments this works best for me.
 
like above,
i like to zero depending on trajectory/velocity.

for any gun i shoot,
i like to sight in so the top of my trajectory rises about a half mil above my center crosshair/dot.

so for my m3 .25 with jsb king heavies at 900,
i zero at 55yds.

or my m3 .25 with 28gn slugs going 950,
i zero at 60yds.

a rainson edge .25 shooting 25gn kings at 840,
i zero at 45yds.


but im probably weird lol :cool:
 
curious.
not talking about zeroing at the top of the trajectory.

but to those that zero close (20 25)
where does your far zero end up?

i know from chairgun my impact with 34gn jsbs at 900 and a 55yd zero gives me a close zero of 22.4yds.
My zero at 30 yards with 34 grain JSB's at 926 gives the second zero at around 50 yards. I have not verified that with actual shooting though. Using Strelok.
 
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I haven't tried your method but it does sound like a good way to go.

I have just 2 fixed target distances on my property right now a 15 yard indoor and a 35 yard outdoor. I ended up zeroing everything other than my Daisy 10 meter pistol at 35 yards and use the holdover points on my reticle for longer and shorter shots in the field for random targets. I set my Zero Stop if I have one, like on my 15-60x Athlon Ares at 9 MOA below my 35 yard zero so I can make some down adjustments when I want to but can easily return to my 35 yard zero since it is the first zero on the dial that lines up from bottomed out on the stop.
 
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curious.
not talking about zeroing at the top of the trajectory.

but to those that zero close (20 25)
where does your far zero end up?

i know from chairgun my impact with 34gn jsbs at 900 and a 55yd zero gives me a close zero of 22.4yds.
Before I went this route, I zeroed @20yds with JSB 18.13’s @900fps. My second zero was dead on at 50yds.
 
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Every rifle has its own unique trajectory apex —- I shoot every yard from 9 yards to my max KZ usually 60 yards, to verify start of apex to end of apex where pellets begin descent. My zero is always at the initial peak of apex. Everything is a simple holdover afterwards with known poi. Always done on a bench and a still day.
 
Every rifle has its own unique trajectory apex —- I shoot every yard from 9 yards to my max KZ usually 60 yards, to verify start of apex to end of apex where pellets begin descent. My zero is always at the initial peak of apex. Everything is a simple holdover afterwards with known poi. Always done on a bench and a still day.
I agree. Easiest way for me as well.
 
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