Newish shooter to PCP- Akela project gun log

Hello yall, I'm new to the forum and building up posts so I can do more. So this is mainly to get time here, also to say "hello"- much cribbed from a posting over in the machinist section of GTA I already wrote up.

I need folks to shoot with in Houston/Tomball area if you like this idea reach out, I would love to find some folks to shoot with. Most of my friends are into AR platforms, I am a sore thumb. They get a kick out of shooting my airguns, but are not converting.
:)

I am a hobby machinist.. this first PCP without built in pump gun provides me opportunity to play on my tools in garage! My primary goals for this little airgun project:
  • Get some experience modifying an inexpensive gun.. if something goes wrong I wont be crushed and angry with myself.
  • Learn about basic accuracy improvement possible via nice crowning, barrel polish, port smoothing
  • Improve shot count of air fill. Now that the barrel and simple port work is done, my next real priority. I am using a Four Uncles pump... increasing shot count is pretty important now. If I really enjoy this, will likely buy compressor. For now, waiting.
  • Reduce report... tinker with some custom wipes, dampening material, etc. etc.

Akela was chosen, if I recall correctly, as I sort of like Benjamin/Crosman and USA idea, not too expensive, first bullpup. Then found the Sub12 Airgunner channel on YouTube and he was doing much of what I wanted to do and documenting it well and just "nicely."

.177 chosen as AirgunDepot was having a sale on them when I went to purchase, they were $100 cheaper than .22 version. Pump, spare mag, gun, two tins of 500 pellets, taxes, shipping, etc. were $488... hard to beat that deal. I also did not have a .177 gun at all, mostly a 392, Aspen .22, FX Independence .25. Have avoided tanks or hand pumps till now, and other than a little trigger work on a break barrel have done NO mods to any guns.

What I have done on gun to date:
  • I smoothed transfer port on inside of barrel with needle files and felt/polish on foredom rotary handle,
  • Lightly touched up the lead with the felt and polish but tried to stay away from it for now
  • On outside of barrel i more or less chamfered the port and smoothed it- did not open up any, just tried to set up so if not perfectly aligned that the air would have a smoother transfer into barrel. If, after reg install, power drops too much I may open up a bit. I dont really need this gun to have too much power, would be happy to have it shoot ~8gr pellets well at 50yds.
  • On barrel crown I used small grinder to put a very clean and smooth new crown on rifle. The original crown looked as though it were done by someone suffering from delirium tremors. I have never seen such a ratty nasty job on anything since high school shop classes. I did not waste my time shooting (pumping) prior to recrowning... did not think it worth effort of pumping.
  • On working bore of rifle- cleaned, polished, worked back and forth a lot at choke until it felt a bit easier. Tried not to remove the choke totally, rather just worked down and smoothed out.
Results: I took out to a friends ranch this last weekend and shot the Akela with Crossman Premier 10.5gr .177 domed pellets (and maybe RWS 8.3gr domed.. read on). After sighting in, and having some rough fun, I held 3x 3/8" and 2x 1/2" ctc groups of 5 shots at 25 yards, with only one for sure flyer, perhaps two in ~40 pellets. I was really just trying to empty out my mags so I could start fresh and keep track of what pellet used on new targets. Unfortunately I ran short of pellets. I had dropped my 3 random pellet mags (one filled, one mostly filled, one half filled) in my archery range bag, figuring use them to sight in, then refill and track what pellets used. But I forgot to add the pellet tins. So after sighting in with ~10 shots for the new scope, playing around a bit with the gun to see how it worked, I ran out of pellets and was unable to try greater distances, different pellets, or weights. I suspect the mags were 2xpremier, and perhaps 1x RWS 8.3gr domed...

Net positive/things learned/things I will call good enough:
1. Work done unlikely to have caused any issues in rifle. The gun likely shoots better than I can hold at this stage with the rough gear I used as "bags" and the fact I am a bit shaky, and my sight picture through scope was, at best, fuzzy.
2. Gun used ~1000 pounds of air for ~35 shots. I had hoped to shoot enough to be certain... but not going to stress it too much. This was of interest to me as I am going to install a Huma reg next. I may wait to shoot again, count the rounds better for 1k of air. May take out my chronograph even, get a real idea of where it starts to truly decline in power.
3. I maybe took too much slack out of the connecting rod from trigger to the sear mechanism, and the trigger pull is perhaps too light. I really did not feel a "first stage". I find it a pretty pleasant trigger as is, but may experiment upon it later.
4. I need to invest in scopes that are higher quality! I have limited experience with sights, have been using "bundled" scopes. Purchased an AR-332 3x prism scope, arrived earlier in week. So impressed I immediately ordered a second for another rifle- crystal clear even with my astigmatism. Anyone interested - they are on sale for only ~$200 now at optics planet. A great deal, I think they must be clearing out old stock as a new model comes out or something.


Short term next steps :
1. Get a range bag for pellet rifle shooting to hold key gear in one place... [done]
2. Get a broader variety of pellets so I can see if gun is pellet sensitive or I was simply lucky with the pellet mix I shot. [waiting for sale at airgundepot- I think I want to buy a LARGE number of tins. ]
3. Install Huma regulator [may wait to shoot once more, get a few more 1k air runs to get a good baseline on start/final after improvements]
4. tinker with sound dampening material in existing silencer chambers and perhaps improved wipers- felt? Do with Huma install of course.

Longer term:
1. Change hammer/spring items: de-bouncer/spring stop device (SSD), mass, length, etc. I think the SSD is a must-do project, but will take an afternoon I don't have right now. I really want to conserve air.
2. Play with trigger. Watch airgun detective video, etc. and try something new. I improved an old benjamin nitro piston break barrel about a decade ago, simple enough then, and the results were well worth the time spent.

General comments- having something to do with my machine tools is GREAT. I know I could just buy a FX Impact or a Thomas or a RAW and shoot much better, but then I would not have the opportunity to work in my garage with my lathe, etc. which I enjoy.

What this gun is NOT about, at least now: small game hunting or power tuning... If all other stuff works out might consider in future for sparrows and squirrels, but for now just for paper targets, spinners, plinking, and education.

Observation.. on my archery forums guys chatter a lot, respond, etc. On GTA a fair number of folks read my post... but nearly no responses. Perhaps because I am a newbie.. or too long a post?
 
oh.. for anyone thinking of similar on Akela or Cayden or the Kratos, I think they all use the same block.

When I removed my barrel I found the O ring seals on barrel were cut in several places. Checking the block I found a sharp lip as below. To remove this lip I just turned up a small hardwood block to a round dowel with a 45 degree end and a nice taper to it, slathered down with metal polish and worked it around inside the block to take the sharp off. Seemed to work. If you have a lathe it is only a few minutes of effort, well worth investment of time.
block.png


One of things I dont like to do on forums- just go "hi there... " to build up post count. Above more detail than typical, but I will try to be a good forum member, post value.
 
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oh.. for anyone thinking of similar on Akela or Cayden or the Kratos, I think they all use the same block.

When I removed my barrel I found the O ring seals on barrel were cut in several places. Checking the block I found a sharp lip as below. To remove this lip I just turned up a small hardwood block to a round dowel with a 45 degree end and a nice taper to it, slathered down with metal polish and worked it around inside the block to take the sharp off. Seemed to work. If you have a lathe it is only a few minutes of effort, well worth investment of time.
View attachment 389042

One of things I dont like to do on forums- just go "hi there... " to build up post count. Above more detail than typical, but I will try to be a good forum member, post value.
 
Welcome to the forum. The Akela was the second PCP I bought. I went through two .177's that all had issues with the valve. On the third try Benjamin sent me a .22 cal and it has worked perfectly. I too have a Huma Regulator to install. Do a search of the forum for Akela and you will find a lot of useful and interesting research that has been done by forum members. As for scopes I really like the Optisan or Hawke scopes on my Akela.
 
Shot a bit more this weekend. Boy oh boy do I need to get my bipod set up. And pumping is getting vexing, air compressor and little tank looking better every time I go out.

Burris AR-332 was great , clear, easy to set up, very forgiving of my astigmatism. But spot at center of reticle covered up the target at 25yds. Ok for now, and for a field gun. If/when I start really trying for accuracy going to need something better.

What I want to buy next, but need to wait a bit to clean out junk/save up a bit:
  • Air compressor- small and portable
  • Small carbon tank and a bag to protect it and regulator
  • Chronograph. Those newer radar systems beat the heck out of my old caldwell. I experimented non-scientifically with the power adjustments on the Akela, saw what you see on youtube- changing power can dramatically change POI and CTC spread. I went from ~0.5" to almost 2".
 
Ok, last night started the installation of regulator, barrel band, new moderator.

I learned that air tube (and barrel, etc.) on this gun is held by loose fits/seals/set screws and not by screwing stuff together- makes sense, wont chew up rings with threads.

On the downside, my life has not had many experiences with stuff held together this way, pneumatic seals. I have decades of just taking apart things screwed together and getting it right almost every time. So I have a belief that I have no issues with typical mechanical items, and generally just start taking things apart. Overconfident/dont know boundaries of knowledge.

So I did something stupid on removing the air cylinder- sort of tried to screw it off vs. releasing the set screws and simply sliding out. I tore up the seals! Lesson learned, which is what this gun was intended for- expand knowledge, learn boundaries. I am now seeking o-rings/seals. Decided to just try buying a few "assortments" of decent metric rings and go. Have not yet found list of all rings and sizes for Akela or Cayden.. boy that would rock! Will also buy one of the assortments from Bagwell and Kirkwood in UK just in case.

I suspect that I will be frustrated by the difficult/cumbersome access to the hammer spring pretty soon. Stock likely to get a new hole, which is why I have not yet worried about refinishing and prettying up the stock.

So far, so good. This gun is meeting my "learning curve" expectations just fine. No worries.
 
@_CTAIRGUNNER_ @EPG
Thanks! Over last decade I have done a ton of finish refurbs to old recurve bows, this will be first PCP. My technique is very similar to EPG description- I will add slightly to his outline:

First: End grain treatment. If exposed, I use a grain sealer to prevent the end grain from getting too dark. Lately have had nice luck with cellulose sealers, super fast to cure up, sand so easily. But tons of decent homebrew recipes work well also.

Second: If the finish and shape of wood are already good, just not shiny or deep enough, or I want to remove scratches I dont strip anymore. Takes way too much effort and time. Below is not a widely known technique, I learned it from an old gunsmithing book, works great! I have used on ~15-25 old recurves without a single failure.

Quick and easy, and likely foolproof, finish method I use 95% of the time nowadays on older recurve bow handles: Get some BLO/Boiled Linseed Oil and 0000 steel wool and a bit of thinner. Clean the steel wool in paint thinner, turpentine, or mineral spirits to remove the light oil steel wool is coated with to prevent rust- this oil can leave your finish cloudy if not removed. Doubly important if you want to "smooth" between coats with steel wool.​
Then simply dip wool in BLO, rub down the bow well, wipe down well- you really don't leave much BLO on bow at all. Then set aside for a week. This both cleans stuff up, it also will act to add a thin coat to cover any imperfections/cracks with something to protect wood. Finish will be, at this stage, matte. If grain still shows more than you like, repeat. If bow really dirty, clean up first with formby's or thin up the BLO for the first pass, wipe it off really well, wipe on again with thinned down BLO, wipe off- this really cleans up an older finish, gets dirt off, old sticker residue, etc. etc.. It may also remove any cloudy/oxidized older finish you dont necessarily want getting into pores of your new work. Then put on nice unthinned BLO pass and let set up. Add more coats of BLO as needed after the initial cleaning and buffing.​
After the first pass you can switch to TruOil if you like, but for first passes you need something that doesn't start curing so fast, the TruOil simply starts setting up too fast. This technique works ok on raw wood as well, sort of fills in pores with a slurry of finish and light wood dust. I don't like the look I get using micro sized dust from wood to fill pores myself, but some do.​
Then buff. I have used NuFinish. Just about anything should work, I have used my simichrome and my wife's silver polish with success.. If I really want a mirror finish I will then do a once over with a fine car wax.​

This Akela will need stripping as I am unhappy with the stain, I am cutting some new curves in and need wood color uniform. But if I had a gun with a nice stain and good lines, save the time with above.
 
@Bob-in-WV - thanks. I screwed up a few times along the way, how I seem to learn. I have a few recurves I destroyed- one by using a power sander and getting a bite into fiberglass limbs, another I did not wrap up tips and it fell off a table and split tip. So about a 5% failure rate to get to competent. Not too bad.

I seem to run a higher failure rate on new hobbies / early projects.... I may destroy this Akela. But if so, its destruction will provide lessons for future guns.

On expensive stuff I do a ton of research prior to messing with it, build plan for dissasembly and parts management. On cheap stuff I just dig in and try.
 
ok, a few weeks ago I started on stock. Short story: Due to repetive injuries over 6 decades, my rotator cuff is not so great. I hurt myself enough to pause for a while on project. Why no updates lately.

Expectation- within a month pick up again, finish stock and regulator. Then shoot for a while so I can have some darn fun.

Purchased tank, whips, small compressor. Got really tired of pumping in only a few sessions. :)