AirMaks Arms Katran SC setup and review: now with quick tune instructions!

weevil

Member
Dec 19, 2022
1,508
2,636
Utah
Skip to bottom of post #6 for a quick guide!

Fellow connoisseurs,

This thread will focus on a newly purchased Katran which was purchased as a ratter for my neighbor. However, due to an incident in the setup, it seems destined to be mine, in exchange for my Atomic XR. We’ll get into this later.

By way of intro, the SC is a subcompact Katran and this model is a 22. It can be setup as a pistol or carbine by way of a non-folding attachment that is magnetic and equipped with a grub screw to adjust so that it has no wobble, which works well. The air tube is 100cc and 300bar fill by way of the Airmaks probe. The pic rail is 20moa and the barrel is shrouded and equipped with UNF threading for a mod, which is necessary and this one has the IA1200, which is working well to keep it plenty backyard friendly. It’s also equipped with a Spitfire 5x that was modded to 50y parallax and that’s working pretty well for this config.

Pics setup as rifle or pistol:


IMG_0644.jpeg

IMG_0645.jpeg


Like other models in this genre, the KSC makes most sense as a carbine and not a dedicated pistol in the vein of the HW44, Ataman, or the godly GK1. However, with a laser, it will no doubt prove effective for pesting in confined spaces.

Having owned several Airmaks, I’m fully aware of the dangers of this breed. They often require some work and I’ve regarded them in the past as 80% finished. I’m glad to say that things seem to have improved and maybe now are at 90%. On the plus side, if you can get them to 99%, then they’re every bit as good as stuff costing 50 or more percent more. Let’s talk about the missing 10% first and we can break it down to two issues:

1. Upon filling for the first time, with a compressor, the pressure gauge at the front of the air tube failed catastrophically at 250bar. I wouldn’t call it a dangerous event but it was enough to give my neighbor (who is a PCP noob) second thoughts about becoming the owner. From my perspective, while I’ve never seen or heard of this, I know that the Airmaks gauges are flimsy. I once removed one from a Caiman and it fell apart. So, in this case, I replaced the exploded gauge with a Wika, which as you can see in the pics, is a little bigger and sticks out at the front of the air tube. I may put in a digital, but I won’t be asking for a replacement from Airmaks!

2. The KSC arrived tuned to shoot Hades at 650fps. Playing with the hammer, it was clear that it was tuned on the knee, which is good. However, it did not sound good. Flatulent and loud and clearly using way too much air to propel Hades at <16fpe. A 300bar fill was insufficient for 2x16 shot mags, which is dire. Tearing in, the plenum was marked in red pen with the number “80” as was the reg. Surely not I thought. It would be madness to setup with such a short barrel at 80bar. I had to investigate further so I put it back together without any reg adjustment and sure enough, shots got louder at 80bar tank pressure before pellet speed dropped. Holy moly. Are they all coming out this way? Checked on the product stats and sure enough, the KSC is advertised at 21 joules/15.5fpe with 15.9grain pellets.

To fix this terrible tune, I performed three incremental reg adjustments, not knowing the adjustment scale, eventually landing around 120bar, as deduced by evaluating a shot string. Surprisingly, this little Katran has an adjustable valve spring, although the effect is not large due to a weak spring. Still, with an estimated 120bar and maximum valve spring tension (limited by spring compression; EDIT, actually it was not maxed, the adjuster thread was fouled - see later post)), I was able to get a tune with the Hades shooting at an average 712fps/18fpe. The speed plateau was 740fps at that pressure. It might be possible to improve it further by going higher on the reg, but as it stands, I’m pretty comfortable with this tune and with the power output from a 230mm barrel. The valve pin and poppet are not really suitable for high reg pressures, in my opinion. In any case with this tune, the report is much quieter and snappier. It sounds like a properly tuned PCP. Also it’s now getting through 3x16 shot mags before dropping off the reg. A very clear example of how increasing reg pressure can make for higher efficiency. Actually 52 shots to be precise, which is close to 40% more than stock and those shots are 2.5fpe more powerful.

So, now we have a KSC that makes some sense, in terms of noise and power. Does the reg provide a good ES throughout the range from 300-120 bar? The answer is yes. Airmaks now seems to be able to produce a solid reg. ES was recorded at 7fps for my 52 shot string. Now, the most critical - can it shoot accurately? This is where you get the benefit with Airmaks - a CZ barrel! So far, it seems to be an emphatic yes based on my early (well, late in the day) experience sighting it in on my duct seal targets (aiming at a grain of seed!). At both 30 and 40 yards, it simply stacked the pellets. Of course, I need to see how it does in the morning after having the chance to creep overnight.

What else can I say. It’s a very comfortable setup with adjustable butt and cheek riser. The short tube rail, which accepts a pic plate, is perfect for hold during offhand shooting. The mag mechanism and left side lever are perfect for me and I’ve quickly grown to like the look and overall feel. Is it better than the atomic XR at this point? On the balance of today, I’d say so. It feels better, both from bags and offhand - more like a trad. rifle. The shot count and mag size is a major plus if I were to take it hiking with no means to refill. The accuracy seems to be a step above and I’ve only tried the Hades so far. It would be great if it can shoot the CPHPs, which work pretty well in the XR. I’ll figure that out tomorrow. Of course, it may not be as robust as the XR. Only time will tell.
 
Last edited:
Spent the morning shooting a variety of lightweight pellets and didn’t find anything that grouped as well as the Hades. Then decided to push up the reg to see if any more juice could be squeezed from the tiny barrel. Pushing the reg to 125bar upped the speed at the knee to 728fps but the accuracy suffered. Dropping the hammer back to 710fps restored that accuracy. Encouragingly, the gun was even snappier and less noisy at 125bar, so I pushed it up to 130. Time to try heavier pellets. First out of the gate, the JSB 18.1s. Not good enough. Next up, a couple H&Ns. Going in the wrong direction, accuracy wise, but the shot cycle at 130bar was noticeably better. Really crisp and quiet. Took the dog out to think it over and then came back to survey the lesser-used pellets at the bottom of the drawer. Mostly too heavy or too funky, except for a tin of JTS 18.1s, which I’d used for a while in the GK1 before returning to GTOs. The stars then aligned in a big way between those JTS and the little Katran. Before getting to the accuracy, I’ll mention that I’d been having a few cocking issues with the Hades, strangely always around shots 4-8 from a full magazine. Nothing that led to a jam but on a few occasions I had to remove and reinsert the mag. No such problem with the JTS 18.1s - absolutely smooth. Also, I can feel a little more resistance as the pellet enters the breech. This is a good thing. The Hades presented little to no resistance and I couldn’t tell when the mag was empty. A couple useful bonuses there.

Tuning on the knee with the JTS 18.1s at 130bar gave an average speed of 718fps with the lowest ES so far observed. The extra weight quietens the gun down and increases efficiency, so I was still able to get 2.5 mags from 280bar to 130. 40 shots at 21fpe. I could tell from the chronographing that the accuracy was great, so I proceeded to put two full mags, running from 280bar to 160 into a duct seal block at 45yards. This little gun is staggering with these pellets!

IMG_0648.jpeg


Here’s the bulk of the cluster after removal from the duct seal.

IMG_0649.jpeg


This tune is staying put for a week of casual evaluation. Then it gets the thermal scope and starts to earn its keep. EDIT - it turned out to be too good to be relegated to night duty; instead, it’s earned the position of #1 yard pester and plinker!!!
 
Last edited:
This may seem like some really nerdy fine tuning but actually really important for a short barrel and wide ranging tank pressure shooting from 300bar to 125bar. That’s because regulators invariably decline in output as tank pressure drops. I noticed that the 18.1 tune, highlighted in the last post, was shooting at 700fps at 300bar and increasing to 720fps at 150bar. There was then a 20fps spike as it fell of the reg, indicating that I was on the low side of optimal hammer for this reg pressure. I got sloppy later in the day, focusing on shot noise rather than hard numbers. I also didn’t focus on tuning at the median tank pressure. I fixed this by first finding the maximum speed at this reg pressure by chronographing shots and increasing hammer while tethered at 210bar (right in the middle of the useable tank pressure range). It maxed out at 760fps, and my tune was reading 712fps at 210bar. That means that I was tuned at 7% below the plateau at that median tank pressure, explaining my observations. I decided to push up to 728fps at that median tank pressure so that I was at 4% below plateau speed. At that speed, I then observed a very small spike to 735fps with the first shot that fell off the reg and then a drop to 720 and 714, accompanied by increasing noise. I then filled to 300bar and chronied 5 shots, repeating at 250, 200 and 150bar. The SD of those 20 shots, taken across the whole range of useful tank pressure is <3.

More importantly, the first 5 shots at 300bar tank pressure are:

11-Dec-2023 16:47:07,721,FPS,20.9,FT Lbs,
11-Dec-2023 16:47:20,728,FPS,21.3,FT Lbs,
11-Dec-2023 16:47:31,728,FPS,21.3,FT Lbs,
11-Dec-2023 16:47:43,733,FPS,21.6,FT Lbs,
11-Dec-2023 16:47:56,726,FPS,21.2,FT Lbs,

and the last 5 at 150 bar tank pressure:

11-Dec-2023 16:52:25,733,FPS,21.6,FT Lbs,
11-Dec-2023 16:52:38,726,FPS,21.2,FT Lbs,
11-Dec-2023 16:52:46,731,FPS,21.5,FT Lbs,
11-Dec-2023 16:52:55,731,FPS,21.5,FT Lbs,
11-Dec-2023 16:53:05,724,FPS,21.1,FT Lbs,

This type of fine tuning also provides a buffer against creep. I haven’t had a chance to fully determine if it has affected accuracy but some quick groups at 45y in the declining light looked very good.

I hope this is of value to anyone else who buys this quirky little carbine. Not too popular so far judging by this thread, LOL! Or something similar with a small barrel and tank with high fill capacity. These are the most demanding PCPs in terms of fine tuning and in this case, set up way out of whack from the factory with hammer bounce and excessive dwell. I would guess that all of the Katrans are set up this same way regardless of whether the barrel is 230mm or 700mm. Ultimately, I think this one could benefit from a stiffer valve return spring, given the very short barrel, but I will settle for now using the heavier pellet and reg pressure to help close the valve. Kinda weird that it has to be stretched to shoot 6fpe higher than advertised to get to a happy place!
 
I was still a little concerned about the performance of the KSC, primarily due to the fact that the sound of the shots was not consistent. Some were short and snappy whereas other were louder and more drawn out. It’s a subtle thing that has you questioning your perception and it’s certainly much better and more consistent sounding than it was. However, after a couple days of casual use, I was convinced that the sound variation is real. Since it doesn’t accord with tank pressure, it could only be derived from variation in hammer hits or more likely, valve operation (dwell).

Regarding the latter, in a regulated PCP, dwell is influenced by a number of factors, most importantly the ratio of poppet surface area to stem surface area. In essence, when a valve is open, the force that causes it to close is derived from the differential between the area exposed on the high pressure size (poppet surface area) vs the low pressure side (poppet surface area-stem surface area). Therefore, a larger diameter stem will exert more closing force. In addition closure is enhanced by the spring, such that adding spring tension is equivalent to increasing the stem diameter and rate of closure, hence decreasing dwell. One known “side effect” of having a lower differential of force to effect closure is also that dwell tends to be less tightly controlled, leading to inconsistency in sound and projectile speed, enhancing ES. Typically, this effect is very small but it stands to reason that it would be amplified in the case of a short barrel tuned to shoot at high power.

As mentioned earlier, the KSC has an adjustable valve return spring which I thought was maxed out. The next step to decrease dwell would therefore be to install a heavier spring that exerts more force to assist closure. You might think that this would also provoke the need for more hammer but actually, it has little to no effect on that. Tearing in again to measure spring parameters in order to procure a stronger replacement. I noticed that the tensioner was not actually maxed but that its threads were blocked by a piece of grit! After cleaning it up, I was able to get 1.5 more rotations from the adjuster to maximize spring tension. Of course, I also checked that max tension did not lead to binding of the spring, constraining valve travel. I decided to try the spring at max tension before ordering anything stronger.

Before talking about results, I will say again that installing the wika gauge allows me to degas the gun and access the reg and valve adjuster in a matter of a few minutes, just by unscrewing the gauge to degas and then only screwing out the air tube. No need to remove the grip or plenum or use the funky Airmaks degassing tool. It makes this KSC the quickest thing in my collection to work on. Of course, you have to do that stuff the first time to replace the gauge, because the stock small gauge cannot be loosened in situ. I’m actually now very happy that the gauge exploded because of this beneficial side effect!

After putting it back together, I ran it over the chrony over the course of a full fill and found that speed/power was reduced to an average of 720/21fpe from 728/21.5. For reasons mentioned earlier, I suspect due to reduced dwell/faster valve closure, rather than increased difficulty opening the valve. More importantly, the increase in spring tension tightened the SD to 1.2, at least a 2-fold improvement. In addition, the issue of variability in sound is gone and the KSC is overall, quieter by 3dB. There remain no issues with variation in speed across a fill and there is a marked increase in efficiency from 1.15fpe/cu. In. to 1.28. To be clear, those calculations are derived from an estimated air volume of 85cc to account for the plenum and reg. Therefore they should not be considered to be definitive, but rather to be useful for comparative evaluation. In practical terms, it is now getting 10-12 more shots from the same volume of air. Could we do better with a stronger spring? Possibly, but with an SD of 1.2 already, there is really no room for improvement.

I will go to the UA range soon and shoot groups with video to unequivocally demonstrate the stunning accuracy of this (now) well-tuned KSC! It’s hard for me to believe. I’m also thinking now about a better optic that will keeps things compact and still facilitate rare use as a pistol. It’s too good for a 5X prism!

TLDR? Here’s a shortcut guide to making the KSC into what I think is the #1 subcompact/hydrid that you can buy right now:

Videos of disassembly and all adjustments can be found on this British guy’s YT:


Kudos to him for the very clear instructions!


1. Degas, remove the air tube and plenum, replace the toy gauge with a real one and put a larger oring under the reg to allow the fill port cover to be tight and functional in turning.

2 Increase the reg pressure by turning adjustment screw 120degrees CCW which will get you to ~120bar. My gauge was marked with “80” in red sharpie, which I assume was orig. pressure. Adjust accordingly if yours is different.

3. Max (by turning CW) the adjustable valve collar. Reassembly and find your plateau speed over the chrony. Count on using 96-97% of that speed for a final consistent tune.

4. From now on, degas using the gauge and remove only the tube to access the reg adjustment. Adjust the reg successively until your plateau speed is 96-97% of your target
speed. Tune at median tank pressure so that you’re not caught out by variation resulting from a high or low tank pressure.

5. Check your shot speed to ensure consistency at high and low (but still above reg set point) pressures. Fractional increase in hammer should reduce that effect. Also, use the chrony to figure out your reg set point and how you fall off the reg. At 96-97%, you should see a tiny jump in speed (if at all) and then a drop. Noise will also increase when you drop off the reg.

6. See the CDR video for info on trigger adjustment. Mine is now at 10oz and is a pleasure to use.

7. Adjust the grub screw in the removable magnetic stock to remove any play and secure it with loctite.

Without my R@D hijinks, you should be able to get the little KSC buttoned down in 3 hours.

At some point, I may do a power tune at 150bar, but for now I’m done. Did I say that earlier? I guess I might pop back with a new scope but that will be much less painful to read. And of course, a video at the range!
 
Last edited:
Spent the morning shooting a variety of lightweight pellets and didn’t find anything that grouped as well as the Hades. Then decided to push up the reg to see if any more juice could be squeezed from the tiny barrel. Pushing the reg to 125bar upped the speed at the knee to 728fps but the accuracy suffered. Dropping the hammer back to 710fps restored that accuracy. Encouragingly, the gun was even snappier and less noisy at 125bar, so I pushed it up to 130...The stars then aligned in a big way between those JTS and the little Katran. Before getting to the accuracy, I’ll mention that I’d been having a few cocking issues with the Hades, strangely always around shots 4-8 from a full magazine. Nothing that led to a jam but on a few occasions I had to remove and reinsert the mag. No such problem with the JTS 18.1s - absolutely smooth. Also, I can feel a little more resistance as the pellet enters the breech. This is a good thing. The Hades presented little to no resistance and I couldn’t tell when the mag was empty. A couple useful bonuses there...
@weevil Do you think that your cocking issues were a result of the weak spring in the Katran mag? In Steve's AEAC review of the Katran, the weak spring in the mag was one of his gripes with the gun. He said you can only index the mag so fast before it gives you problems. Has this been your experience or have you only had this issue with Hades pellets?
 
@weevil Do you think that your cocking issues were a result of the weak spring in the Katran mag? In Steve's AEAC review of the Katran, the weak spring in the mag was one of his gripes with the gun. He said you can only index the mag so fast before it gives you problems. Has this been your experience or have you only had this issue with Hades pellets?
Only with Hades. I have >2 tins of the JTS through it now and it has been like butter. I just got a second mag delivered but haven’t used it yet, so we’ll see how that one does. However, I cannot imagine how a mag spring could change its operation according to how fast you shoot and reload. I should watch the vid because I may be misunderstanding!
 
Only with Hades. I have >2 tins of the JTS through it now and it has been like butter. I just got a second mag delivered but haven’t used it yet, so we’ll see how that one does. However, I cannot imagine how a mag spring could change its operation according to how fast you shoot and reload. I should watch the vid because I may be misunderstanding!
@weevil I saw it in the video in this link
You can catch him talking about it at the 6:26 mark and again at the 7:00 mark.
 
Watched it - thanks. I guess I can try going faster but the only time the spring is advancing the mag is when the cocking lever is fully back so it seems that an issue could arise with a weak spring if you move the lever back and forward too fast, not as a consequence of cocking and shooting too frequently. I’ll be sure to give it some torture testing for you, but what I saw him doing in the video at the start of that segment is nothing I’d ever do anyway. It’s like stepping out into the yard and having to quickly tag 5 tree rats? I should be so lucky! (And if I am, I hope it’s with the Huben)
 
  • Like
Reactions: pan60 and Ezana4CE
UA kindly replaced my gauge (with a digital) and after cutting the plastic cover down, I am very happy with it. With cover off, you can replace the battery without removing the gauge (it comes with 2 batteries) and I retain the ability to degas very easily by wrenching the gauge loose.

IMG_0659.jpeg

IMG_0660.jpeg

I also picked up an extra mag, which is working just as smoothly as the original with the JTS 18.1. My markings on the mag line up when it is empty because otherwise the gun will continue to dry fire. I hear that Carm mags fix that issue but you lose the anti double feed, which I like.
 
Last edited:
Now for the scope. Always a tricky decision especially if the gun is “special needs”. In this case, aside from the usuals (good glass, reticle, smooth/clicky adjustments, etc), it needs to be:

1. Compact and lightweight (for adventuring)
2. Minimum maximum of 9X, more than 12 is pointless
3. SFP, to avoid reticle disappearance at low mag
4. Open turrets preferred
5. Parallax down to very short range
6. The most tricky one - some level of use-ability at low mag in pistol config

Did a lot of research beforehand and decided that I didn’t want the compromise of a scout or pistol scope with low mag, often fixed parallax etc. it will spend 90% of its time as a carbine. Narrowed it down to the Hawke Airmax compact or Optisan CP2-12. A great benefit of living near UA is that I can try them out and the staff there are very helpful, knowledgeable and honest. They allowed me to put things together and test it out. This led to quick dismissal of the Hawke on the basis that the eye relief is really unforgiving. The Optisan on the other hand is way more forgiving than it’s specs would suggest - actually on a par with scout scopes at 3X mag. I also really like the reticle on Optisans and have three of their EVX fixed 10s on a Leshiy, Caiman and Huben. They hit the sweet spot for me between “clean” and “dirty”. The only negative seems to be that the turrets are capped. However, they look just fine with the caps removed, unlike in some cases where they look, well, kinda ghetto. They also have the zero reset and nice defined clicks.

Onto the mounting, I really want the scope to be as low as possible for the benefit of offhand use and fortunately the KSC has a pretty low and adjustable cheek piece. Optisan makes a nice unimount that I use with my EVXs but it has 20moa (and the KSC already has that, and certainly doesn’t need 40!) and I don’t want to add unnecessary weight. Luckily, I was able to get a perfect setup with some short Element rings. 1mm clearance for the zoom adjustment and just enough height for comfort with cheek rest in lowest position. Overall, after shooting 100pellets in different positions this AM, I am happy with this call.

IMG_0661.jpeg


IMG_0662.jpeg

Kudos to Airmaks for having a magazine that does not interfere with scope/ring mounting even with a ring right above the mag.
 
Having some fun with this gal:

 
Some pellet testing with the current tune, which shoots JTS 18.1 at 720fps with stellar accuracy.

Initial test at 30yards:

Center circle was used twice. Hades at top and JTS 16.08grain at right. 5 each. Both great.

Upper right: JSB Express Jumbo 13.4 grain. The worst tested. Put in 10 to be sure. 2 flyers.

Lower Right: CPHPs. 8 shots. Not too bad.

Lower Left: HN FTT 14.6 grain. 8 shots. Pretty bad.

Upper Left: JSB 18.1. 5 shots, one flyer.

The Hades and FTT both had loading issues.

IMG_0673.jpeg