Air Arms Prosport and TX200 walnut stock.

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maxtrouble said:
I have not touched my Pro Sport yet, I might do it over the holidays. I use this on my Daystate stocks. The stock simply soaks it up like a towel. This man is a wood working genius.

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UTILITY FINISH OIL - 16 OZ BOTTLE - Bowl Maker Inc.

UTILITY FINISH OIL - 16 OZ BOTTLE. Made from pure California Walnut oil, Mike's Utility Finish oil offers a food-safe way to protect and beautify your turning.
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Me neither but I'm going to at some point. Right now I'm too busy testing pellets and shooting.
 
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bustachip said:
Any sanding involved?

Yes that looks good , what oil did you use, and how many coats did you apply?
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I think it's CLP .... I only put enough on to just coat the surface using my basic oil rag. I started light because I didn't feel it was a good idea, but I couldn't argue it looked great. I've never done this before or again.
However, it worked better than one could expect .... it's such a beautiful piece of wood (that's likely the most import factor).

Again, I'm not pushing this as a solution.
 
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SpiralGroove said:
I think it's CLP .... I only put enough on to just coat the surface using my basic oil rag. I started light because I didn't feel it was a good idea, but I couldn't argue it looked great. I've never done this before or again.
However, it worked better than one could expect .... it's such a beautiful piece of wood (that's likely the most import factor).

Again, I'm not pushing this as a solution.
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I understand, I'm just trying to get some ideas. I actually wiped mine with my oil rag lightly when I first got it, but it soaked up in a matter of mins. The wood is extremely dry like sponge..lol. I just don't want to put something on it that's going to be sticky and not dry completely, time will tell what I decide to do.
 
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bustachip said:
Does it dry completely or kinda tacky, finger print? Just asking because I've never used it before..lol.
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I've heard various approaches to using it. Personally speaking, I generally apply a fairly liberal coating and let it soak into the wood for a while. After which I wipe it dry with a clean cloth. I use the clothe to handle the rifle until I can place it to dry . I have a table covered with packing blankets for this. I let them sit overnight or longer then give them another good wipe. At this point they are dry and not tacky.
Taking care of a Walnut stock isn't an option. It's a commitment. Every year when you oil them, the rifle becomes rivher in color and develops patina from your face and hand oils as well. It's your rifle....it's condition is a reflection of your stewardship.
 
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RLO Comparison.jpg


I'm a big fan of ARH Royal London Oil. It's super easy to apply and get exactly the sheen you want. I've used it on several stocks, and other walnut and it has always come out great. I've found that with walnut, 3 coats provides a very slight satin sheen. This is what I like as it shows figuring really well.
 
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Green_Yamo said:
View attachment 417469

I'm a big fan of ARH Royal London Oil. It's super easy to apply and get exactly the sheen you want. I've used it on several stocks, and other walnut and it has always come out great. I've found that with walnut, 3 coats provides a very slight satin sheen. This is what I like as it shows figuring really well.
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It looks nice. I see the checkering gets a bit dark,
not sure how you could avoid that though.
 
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So I finally applied the first coat of 100% pure tung oil tonight, I thinned it 1:1 with mineral spirits
because it's pretty thick oil, and this is what most people do, that I saw. Any way here's some before and after pics...
Before.......
IMG_6656.jpeg

After and still wet....
IMG_6725.jpeg

It looks lighter around the forearm in this pic, but I'll see in a few days of drying what happens.
IMG_6728.jpeg

Other side is the same, I didn't really see it until I took these pics, maybe didn't penetrate as much on the forearm IDK. Anyway I like the new look better than the lighter factory color that was bone dry. I'm going to apply at least one more coat, not sure after that. Everything I've researched says it takes a week or more to fully cure. I'm going to wait 3 days before another coat at least. I also bought some 0000 scotch bright pads for buffing, not sure about doing that either..lol. I'm learning as I go.
IMG_6727.jpeg
 
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A lot of you guys have some beautifully finished stocks, but am I the only one who thinks you should at least have the option of buying the stock already finished? Maybe if these were plain stocks without the checkering/scaling, trim and white spacers I’d feel differently, but on a stock as nice as these I’d rather leave it up to the factory to finish it.

Mine did turn out looking nice, but the white spacer at the base of the grip now has a brown hue to it.
 
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Sawney Bean said:
A lot of you guys have some beautifully finished stocks, but am I the only one who thinks you should at least have the option of buying the stock already finished? Maybe if these were plain stocks without the checkering/scaling, trim and white spacers I’d feel differently, but on a stock as nice as these I’d rather leave it up to the factory to finish it.

Mine did turn out looking nice, but the white spacer at the base of the grip now has a brown hue to it.
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I agree for the money spent on this Prosport, the stock should've been finished better than just a light dusting of some mystery oil.
I felt it needed this for long run protection so I researched what people were using and decided on what to use. The bad part is I can't use it for several weeks until this finish cures.😭😭
 
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bustachip said:
I agree for the money spent on this Prosport, the stock should've been finished better than just a light dusting of some mystery oil.
I felt it needed this for long run protection so I researched what people were using and decided on what to use. The bad part is I can't use it for several weeks until this finish cures.😭😭
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My pro-sport and TX200 when I shoot them as they come from the factory my whiskers stick in the grain. They could have spent a little more time on the finish on $700-$900 dollar gun..
 
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harrympope said:
My pro-sport and TX200 when I shoot them as they come from the factory my whiskers stick in the grain. They could have spent a little more time on the finish on $700-$900 dollar gun..
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LOL, mine would get stuck too. Hopefully it will be better now, even though I didn't wet sand to fill the grain pores. Prosport is now 1K + tax.
 
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