Air Venturi air-venturi-avenger regulator (new) Can it be lubed.

Apply silicone grease or silicone oil to the O-rings.

Silicone provides no useful lubricating properties for metal-on-metal contact so if you want to lubricate the Belleville washers, use a conventional lubricant (30W oil, automatic transmission fluid, Super Duper Alien Spacecraft lube, etc.). The Bellevilles occupy the vented chamber at atmospheric pressure, therefore a hydrocarbon-based lube is okay.

That's the Cliff's Notes version but if you want to read over a prior thread on regulator maintenance and lubrication, the following one goes into more detail:
 
How do you get the Belleville washers and O rings out for servicing. Looks like you need to force them. Didn't want to without more info. Virgin at taking the gun apart. Trying to tract down a loss of power. Spent 4 months sending the gun back to Air Venturi multiple times. No joy! Both a .177 & .22 operated correctly for 6-9 months, then the loss of power.

I first measure efficiency with a chrono. Shooting well for 6-9 months. Now I get a 80-100 fps drop in power. Didn't notice any air leaks. Cleaned the barrel. Used to get 2nd zero at 60 yards, now its 45 yards. Replaced the reg with no service to the O rings because I didn't know to remove them.
 
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I'm working also on the regulator problems on my Avenger in 25 caliber. I degassed the rifle then removed the regulator and the oring close to the tip was flat and was like a hard plastic and shattered when I tried to remove! Never seen anything like it but I guess 4350 psi plays hell on rubber. I took one as close as I could find out of my captain oring kit I got off eBay for the rifle and it's still too big but kind of works. It's been a slow leaker but you couldn't hear or feel where it was coming out so it was driving me crazy and the leak was this tiny oring causing all that trouble. Hope this helps!
 
the oring close to the tip was flat and was like a hard plastic and shattered when I tried to remove! Never seen anything like it but I guess 4350 psi plays hell on rubber.
This explanation may be more nerded out than you care for, but while the flattening is in fact the result of the high pressure, the hardening/brittleness is from the rapid heating effect of the refill cycle after each firing.
 
Thanks for that explanation. I've only had mine for three months so it going bad that quickly is a bummer. I've purchased a bag of 50 from the oring store for $1.00. that's a lifetime supply for this rifle!
If you have it handy can you specify what part
# or dimension you ordered from the oring store?
The closest I could find was 3/32 - 1/16 ??

I have 3 avengers, (2) .22s and (1) .177. I need work on the regulators. Captain Oring only has 1 oring near the delrin seal. On 1 .22 I buffed out the delrin and replaced the O-ring (from Captain Oring) and the creep went from 500 psi to 100 psi.

For the delrin seal: My lathe needs to be fixed so I used my 3 axis drill press. Mount the regulator in the drill and make sure the table is perpedicular to the drill. Spin it and lower the regulator to the table and sandpaper.I used 500 grit (lightly), then 1500 grit and 2500 grit.

When inserting the o-ring I cut off a mechanicil pencil (see picture). Make sure the thick end I.D. fits over the the delrin and stem. Starting at the thin end roll the o-ring over the thick end to its position on the stem.

Also need help or hints taking the regulator apart. How to get the pressure relief valve screw off to take the regulator apart. From Avenger Schematic #10 part RS-R-023-W-00. It won't budge, I tried a snap ring plier, even tried heat.
IMG_20250110_153343213.jpg
 
The bag of orings i purchased from the oring store are a different size as well and ended up starting to leak after a month. I got ahold of pyramid Air and they sold me the exact fit ones for $16.00. there's one on the end of the regulator stem and a bigger one on the inside of the regulator. I tried a small torch and finally got the thing apart as they use some kind of glue like material to seal them together. It's not loctite im sure. When i got it finally hot enough to take apart the heat had damaged the inner oring so best to order from pyramid before starting this repair. Then dont forget to put on the bigger oring in the body of the valve stack first, then screw the reg back together then install the one on the stem last. I did use pure silicone oil on both orings while reassembling the reg. Make sure thats all you use or combustion will occur! If you can't find the oring kit on pyramids website let me know and ill help find the part number to order these 2 hard to find orings. Best of luck!
 
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The bag of orings i purchased from the oring store are a different size as well and ended up starting to leak after a month. I got ahold of pyramid Air and they sold me the exact fit ones for $16.00. there's one on the end of the regulator stem and a bigger one on the inside of the regulator. I tried a small torch and finally got the thing apart as they use some kind of glue like material to seal them together. It's not loctite im sure. When i got it finally hot enough to take apart the heat had damaged the inner oring so best to order from pyramid before starting this repair. Then dont forget to put on the bigger oring in the body of the valve stack first, then screw the reg back together then install the one on the stem last. I did use pure silicone oil on both orings while reassembling the reg. Make sure thats all you use or combustion will occur! If you can't find the oring kit on pyramids website let me know and ill help find the part number to order these 2 hard to find orings. Best of luck!
Thanks for the response and the tip on the oring store. I tried pyramid but I'll go back an try again. On the phone on a different question the were not much help, so I may contact you. I have one damaged reg so I will try more heat on that.
 
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Thanks for the response and the tip on the oring store. I tried pyramid but I'll go back an try again. On the phone on a different question the were not much help, so I may contact you. I have one damaged reg so I will try more heat on that.
If you haven't found the Pyramid Air part number its PY-A-13562. Its $12.00 for the 2 small orings and freight shows $9.99. Not cheap when the whole regulator is only $39.99 for the original brass one. The reg for the Avenge-X fits it as well but i think its $59.99 as its made of stainless steel. Hope this helps and happy shooting!
 
Short answer- I ordered (2) Caption O'ring kits.

Part # change?? A while ago I downloaded a schematic (I think from Air Venturi, see attached), smaller o'ring: 000p2-072-x-00, larger o'ring: 000p2-073-x-00. I think pyramid has different part #s, and updated part list. Before there were no 0'rings for the regulators, now there are.

My goal was to fix a loss of power. If you read the post dated Dec 28 2023 on this thread, I don't now if replacing the reg o'rings will have an effect. On (1) .22 replacing the small o'ring on the reg fixed the creep issue. As a retired engineer I'm trying different things. But I can't get the cap off the reg! I also use a small butane torch. It was hot enough to pop off the delrin seal, even though the torch was directed at the cap, not the shaft holding the delrin. The cap won't budge. Do you try the cap immediately after heating or wait, I've tried both. Even tried putting the reg in the freezer hoping thermal contraction might help, it didn't LOL. Must be super glue, you'd think the don't want you to remove the cap.

I would try the Avenge-X stainless, if anyone has taken the reg apart and it's easier, please chime in.

View attachment Avenger Schematics.1607720709.pdf