I'd like to get rid of that angular cheekpiece and reshape it into something more traditional. Just curious what kind of success others have had before I start sanding.
HW/Weihrauch Anyone tried reshaping their HW stocks?
- Thread starter Sawney Bean
- Start date
Yes, on my HW77K. The grip was too thick and I defined the raised cheek rest. I had to cut new checkering on the grip. I also had to stain the wood and refinish it. If you have some basic woodworking skills and knowledge along with some patience, you should have no problem.
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Be very careful. Most Weihrauch stocks are beech. They don't take stain very well. They're infamous for coming out blotchy. For that reason most of the the factory stocks are spray stained. That is when the spray a tinted clear lacquer on them. They're closer to be spray painted than stained.
The exceptions are the few walnut and laminate models. Those are much easier to work with.
Wait for a reply from BOG he's very knowledgeable in this area
The exceptions are the few walnut and laminate models. Those are much easier to work with.
Wait for a reply from BOG he's very knowledgeable in this area
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BOG is Bear of Grayling. If he doesn't respond to this thread maybe reach out to him if you still have questions.
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Yeah Guys,
If Weihrauch stock's were made of Walnut, I'd reshape all of them and give 'em a smaller pistol grip and forearm width.
However, because most HW's are made of Beech I've held off, since replicating the OEM finishing job is almost impossible.
The woodworking part is a pleasure to do, but unless you're a stain alchemist you will be pressed to come even close to the factory finish.
I used to use 1 step poly finishes from Varathane, but they discontinued them due to nozzle clogging (likely from the stain part).
I've reshaped all my HW35'e and ARH Walnut stocks for my HW50's.
Beeman (Goudy) stocks of yesteryear don't need to be touched as they're perfect.
I refuse to refinish a stock when I don't know if it's going to turn out great or be a disaster; better left OEM ..... as distasteful as that may be
.
So far, I haven't had the patience to figure out what BOG has done - very nice work!
If Weihrauch stock's were made of Walnut, I'd reshape all of them and give 'em a smaller pistol grip and forearm width.
However, because most HW's are made of Beech I've held off, since replicating the OEM finishing job is almost impossible.
The woodworking part is a pleasure to do, but unless you're a stain alchemist you will be pressed to come even close to the factory finish.
I used to use 1 step poly finishes from Varathane, but they discontinued them due to nozzle clogging (likely from the stain part).
I've reshaped all my HW35'e and ARH Walnut stocks for my HW50's.
Beeman (Goudy) stocks of yesteryear don't need to be touched as they're perfect.
I refuse to refinish a stock when I don't know if it's going to turn out great or be a disaster; better left OEM ..... as distasteful as that may be
.So far, I haven't had the patience to figure out what BOG has done - very nice work!
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Make all stocks more like the fwb sport or cs500. But I guess that’s just meYeah Guys,
If Weihrauch stock's were made of Walnut, I'd reshape all of them and give 'em a smaller pistol grip and forearm width.
However, because HW's made of Beech I've held off, since replicating the OEM finishing job is almost impossible.
The woodworking part is a pleasure to do, but unless you're a stain alchemist you will be pressed to come even close to the factory finish.
I used to use 1 step poly finishes from Varathane, but they discontinued them due to nozzle clogging (likely from the stain part).
I've reshaped all my HW35'e and ARH Walnut stocks for my HW50's.
Beeman (Goudy) stocks of yesteryear don't need to be touched as they're perfect.
I refuse to refinish a stock when I don't know if it's going to turn out great or be a disaster; better left OEM ..... as distasteful as that may be
So far, I haven't had the patience to figure out what BOG has done - very nice work!
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Just make them out of a wood that doesn't blotch easily - that's it!
The FWB sport is beech also ............ and the CS500 stock have wonky, small checkering - why is that?
For the $$$ they charge ............... ?
The FWB sport is beech also ............ and the CS500 stock have wonky, small checkering - why is that?
For the $$$ they charge ............... ?
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Thanks to everyone who responded. I’m glad I asked here before I just started sanding. At this point I’m planning on just ordering a replacement stock from custom stocks in the UK.
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These responses are exactly what I've encountered refinishing gun stocks over the decades.Yeah Guys,
If Weihrauch stock's were made of Walnut, I'd reshape all of them and give 'em a smaller pistol grip and forearm width.
However, because HW's made of Beech I've held off, since replicating the OEM finishing job is almost impossible.
The woodworking part is a pleasure to do, but unless you're a stain alchemist you will be pressed to come even close to the factory finish.
I used to use 1 step poly finishes from Varathane, but they discontinued them due to nozzle clogging (likely from the stain part).
I've reshaped all my HW35'e and ARH Walnut stocks for my HW50's.
Beeman (Goudy) stocks of yesteryear don't need to be touched as they're perfect.
I refuse to refinish a stock when I don't know if it's going to turn out great or be a disaster; better left OEM ..... as distasteful as that may be
So far, I haven't had the patience to figure out what BOG has done - very nice work!
Walnut is very easy. I use Maccari Royal London Oil exclusively.
When refinishing beech I've learned that using pre stain sealer will prevent most blotching. Then I apply stain slowly with little on the paper towel. Then add more in areas that need it. And finish with several coats of RLO.
Hear is one example. My Kalibrgun Cricket Carbine. The factory beech stock was mud brown ugly.
I like the lighter shades on my stocks. YMMV.
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Beech is tricky.. dye is the ticket. oil finishes only after the dye has been sealed. Factory finishes are sprayed with a two component most likely conversion varnish. Over a sprayed dye , you can see plainly inside of all HW and any beech stock the dye. This one was done for a guy who wanted grey tint but not opaque. semi transparent look to go with satin black finish. 
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Depends which direction beech is sawn to determine where they lay. I always go back and try to carefully darken those crescent shaped light medulary rays in beech. I can't stand them. Little trick I use. I did the same thing on other beech stocks. An airbrush set to barely apply anything works, or very carefully dabbing stain with a cloth or lightly loaded squirrel hair brush.
The finer you sand beech the less it will take stain. Don't go past 220.
BSA Challenger carbine refinished (nice rare gun sorta like an HW50 only made a year and a half '79 '80 I think)
You can see the rays here. Bright light makes them stand out.
Hidden better along the bottom edge of the cheek piece and right behind the pistol grip.
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Speaking of re-shaping stocks. Does anyone have any ideas to make this relief cut look a bit better?
I was thinking I may try painting it black or maybe even white. I don’t have high hopes to find a stain that matches.
Also thought about rounding that corner in the middle.
Thoughts?
I was thinking I may try painting it black or maybe even white. I don’t have high hopes to find a stain that matches.
Also thought about rounding that corner in the middle.
Thoughts?
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Personally, I would cover it with a plastic or wood insert that matches the contours of the stock and make it look like part of the sight. Maybe 3d print it.
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Just use some walnut stain. Apply very sparingly with a little piece of paper towel, not wet. It might not be a perfect match, but will look much better than raw wood.
I keep an assortment of stain pens in different shades for touch up's like this.
Have fun
I keep an assortment of stain pens in different shades for touch up's like this.
Have fun
Scott, your skill with Beech wood is very good. I have been using Napiers London Oil with success but maybe I'll give Maccari's a try.
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