Tethering Using Saber Tactical Tank Valve

Interesting. Following.

How is that possible? Do you use a external regulator? If it blows o ring something wrong with it and I would send it back..

Interesting. I have a 9L Acecare tank and use that valve, and have no internal issues with it. I have not shot with it tethered, but I would think that would be less strain on the internals than normal "full flow" use - especially like that of filling another tank through it, which I do, as that is an "extended duration" of the higher flow condition.

Which o-rings were blown? Internal to the valve, or in the fill hoses?

MikeAllen said:

Yes, I use an external regulator but keep in mind, the external reg is outside of the tank/valve. There is apparently a design issue that stresses the o-ring at the bottle and the o-ring between the valve body and the valve if full pressure is left on for extended periods. According to Saber Tactical there’s nothing wrong with it.

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@MikeAllen With that response there’s no way I’d buy one. Thanks for your candor in this thread. I’ve never experienced blown valve o-rings on a SCBA tank. I have Air Venturi tanks and have tethered them with and without an external reg. I’ve had no issues either way. Interested in how you resolve yours.

MikeAllen said:

O-ring between the bottle and the valve body and the o-ring between the valve body and the valve. No problem with the hose.

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DIN300 or CGA347 ?

MikeAllen said:

Standard SCBA carbon fiber tank - M18x1.5 thread. The ST valve screws directly into the bottle. SCUBA is DIN300, correct? This is not SCUBA.

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My CF SCBA tanks have DIN300 valve fittings (Air Venturi Jubilee valve). To be clear, the DIN300 fitting is coming from the side of the valve. I screw my fill whip into the DIN300. Compressor fill fitting connects and fills the tank there too. I don’t know what the actual valve threads are.

I have used a external regulator for years.. NEVER had a issue with the valve!!

MikeAllen said:

Standard SCBA carbon fiber tank - M18x1.5 thread. The ST valve screws directly into the bottle. SCUBA is DIN300, correct? This is not SCUBA.
correction - 7/8 14 UNF threads - just like the ST tank valve

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Correct. And, the DIN300 (SCUBA) tank valve has internal threads and the CGA347 has external (male) threads.

I tether all the time using that valve. Tank to Regman gauge, then to gun. No issues at all. Been doing this for a few years

MikeAllen said:

Standard SCBA carbon fiber tank - M18x1.5 thread. The ST valve screws directly into the bottle. SCUBA is DIN300, correct? This is not SCUBA.
correction - 7/8 14 UNF threads - just like the ST tank valve

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Since you’re subjecting the valve to higher pressures for extended periods of time, try replacing the oring that blows out with a 90 Duro oring of the same size.

I’ve straight tethered with that valve a bunch of times, but will use a different bottle with a Scott valve going forward. If they say not to, I won’t because I have another option. I’ll admit that it’s a bit suspicious that the Saber valve may not hold for extended use at very high pressure, but I haven’t heard of any problems yet either.

I've tethered plenty of times with my ST valve. Never had a problem. This is through a regulator and also just straight to gun.

I also use the ST valve left wide open for a week at a time connected to the regulator and finished with an EdGun Eazy fill. Again - never had a problem.

MikeAllen said:

O-ring between the bottle and the valve body and the o-ring between the valve body and the valve. No problem with the hose.

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The first o-ring (between the bottle and the valve body) sees tank pressure all the time - I see no reason that any use of the valve would impact it in any way. I don't know about the second one, as I never had my valve apart . . .

But like @ctshooter , I use mine with an Edgun Easy Fill for filling my real high pressure guns (Huben and Sidewinder). I have left that line fully charged for weeks at a time, as I saw no reason to vent it and waste the air - one of the advantages of the Easy Fill.. Occasionally the valve has been open, but usually I close it in case a line o-ring lets loose so that I don't loose the whole tank of air when I'm not around. I've never had an issue with the valve, but I have had o-rings in the line wear out faster than normal and thus leaking from this, so several weeks ago I started making sure the valve was closed and then I'd vent the line down to about 3000 psi or so to reduce the load on the o-rings. I figured I'd see how they do at that level, as it still saves a lot of air over the course of a year.