New HW30's From Krale's, My First Day! From The Beginning

Well I'm going to guess this will be a long post. I have looked and found little info on prepping a brand new springer, so, this is what I do, and it's served me well.

But first I am astounded at how quick I got this here in Ohio, from the Netherlands! 3 DAYS! I ordered it the 12th and got it the 15th! actually 10pm Thursday the 11th, but by noon Friday, I had tracking, UPS expected delivery the 15th,,,, I laughed and said that will never happen? Sunday the 14th it was sitting in Indiana 25 miles away? I had it by Noon Monday the 15th, just two business days! Plus it was not available here in the US, but paid less for shipping and all than I could get it here before shipping and tax was put on it!

Well In over 95 degrees and 90% humidity, I really got a work out. But first off, was to strip it, adjust the trigger, and clean the barrel. These Weihrauch air rifles have had a lot of residue from corrosion protection in the bores! I used butches bore solvent to patch the barrel with 3 wet patches before brushing "PRO SHOT WITH A COPPER BORE BRUSH" which I gave 6 to 8 passes from breach, to bore exit, carfully stopping at bore exit, and pulling back thru, that was one pass.

I used three wet patches then 2 dry, and used IOSSO bore cleaner, this was when, after 5 or 6 passes as with the brush, I pulled those brown patches out, that's not barrel metal, barrle polishing they come out black, it is whatever they use as corrosion protection! Probably Cosmaline. But I went thru this regime 4 or 5 times. So after about an hour or more, I cleaned the outer surfaces with STI solvent, it contains a preservative lubricant that penetrates the pores of the steel and preserves and lubricates. I use STI super tuning level wind fishing reels. Great stuf, also good for semi-auto pistols. These are only the patches used with the IOSSO, 4 to 5 passes stroking back and forth, cleaning and polishing the bore. when properly done, will smooth and stop fouling from quality lead pellets.
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Finally wiped down, clean and back in the stock, I did nothing to the internal power plant,,,, YET? I seasoned the bore for lead projectiles. I used the same thing I used decades ago on Muzzel loaders,,, T/C Bore Butter Seasoning. It is mainly softened bees wax, and 100% natural. Three patches with the butter impregnated in the patch, then stroked back and forth 6 to 8 passes with each patch, before running one clean dri patch thru. Leaving the pores of the barrel pre seasoned.

I then installed the rings, the lightest set I had, and the small light, Vantage 2-7x32 Mildot AO Hawke scope. For a sweet little light6,6 lbs. package.
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It was time to start sighting in. I probably put over 50 shots thru it before getting the chrony out and shooting 10 shot groups at 20 yards with three different pellets. When I ordered this rifle was hoping I could get 620 to 630 fps with 7.5 ish grain pellets? Well it did not disappoint! It not only gave me a 10 shot average @ the speed I was hoping for, it did it easily, with 632.7 fps Average. Not to mention with less than 20 fps extreme spread @ 15.3 ES with 5.09 SD. I'm definitely Hap HAP happy! And right of the bat with all three pellets under dime sized groups. So not at all pellet picky, but I will be using the JSB Exact RS in this rifle,, I have 3000 on there way for starters.
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But with the JTS 7.8 grain Dead Down Wadcutter, the 7.7 grain H&N Terminator, and the 7.3 grain JSB RS all proved to shoot great, under a dime sized groops, whill all printing to the same POI using the SPA for each 10 shot group with all three. I thought fabulous out of a gun this clight, and compact! This was another surprise I would have never even thought reasonable to ask for!

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The JTS Wadcutters were tested later on when I found they were also mid 7.5 ish in weight. What I am going to consider the sweet spot for pellet weight in this rifle.
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I have shot it all day long, OFF HAND, I only test on a bench, anytime I shoot after testing, I shoot as I would in the field! This gun has set cocked for 30 or 40 minuets, shooting 3 or 4 pellets, sometimes one with a terminator one with the RS but everytime out to 25 yards it nails walnuts every time, not one miss on those sized targets for over 100 shots, I cant even keep count.

For now this is all I have. I think my prep with this rifle helped it right out of the gate. I have JB'd barrels that were new forever on my centerfires, and started doing it to my pellet rifles about a decade ago, but this was the first I tried the T/C Bore Butter in, and I will use it on any cleaned barrel new or used from hear out. I will let my pellets keep the barrel seasoned from there. Using quality pellets from H&N, JSB Air Arms and JTS are all my rifles eat, and I have yet seen accuracy open up once I have some rounds on them, they simply only ever shoot smaller. I think the Bore Butter just helped settle this rifle down quicker. Now we'll see how much better it gets?
 
HW30 is a classic. Great, easy to shoot rifles. The HW30 reminds me of My childhood with a .22lr in my hand and just shooting around the farm at whatever target that made sense. Just has that same feel to it. They are very well made and accurate. Shoot JSB RS 7.33gr pellets and enjoy. I don’t shoot mine much as I have too many air files and focus on field target when I have the time to shoot. The HW30 is a rifle I won’t be selling. It’s perfect for what it is.
 
I would council against reversing a copper or brass brush while in the bore.
No one would ever reverse a brush in the bore, in the first place it would be harder on the brush and rod than a barrel, but would be a total waste of time. Using a brush in both directions thru the bore is beneficial to cleaning.

The danger using a brush or patch for that matter is allowing the rod to continue out the bore, over extending as it is dropping down and dragging on the crown of the barrel. The rod rubbing the same place on the crown over extending it and drawing it back does more harm than anything.

But your correct, reversing a brush before it totally exits the bore is not any way to clean a barrel. But copper brushes "of quality manufacture" is your friend!

I have used bonse brushes for over 60 years, clean some of the most accurate as well as some of the most expensive custom barrels on rifles built for extreme accuracy for decades. Rifles that will shoot smaller groups at 100 yards than these air guns shoot at 20 yards. But that wont happen if you dont know how to clean them!
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I also hunt with some of the most accurate revolvers you can buy. But they all use the best hunting bullets available and shoot the hottest loads possible, that requires cast lead. and to shoot their best that requires properly seasoning the barrel, and once done properly, I never clean a barrel, just cylinders and frames, the same goes for my air guns. They continue to shoot at there optimum after they season from shooting quality projectiles.

Every type of gun requires different techniques to keep them shooting their best. But at some time in their history, they all require a quality copper brush, Every barrel on anything need it before they are ever shot! The one thing they all have in common.
 
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HW30 is a classic. Great, easy to shoot rifles. The HW30 reminds me of My childhood with a .22lr in my hand and just shooting around the farm at whatever target that made sense. Just has that same feel to it. They are very well made and accurate. Shoot JSB RS 7.33gr pellets and enjoy. I don’t shoot mine much as I have too many air files and focus on field target when I have the time to shoot. The HW30 is a rifle I won’t be selling. It’s perfect for what it is.
I shot it monday as soon as I cleaned it after unboxing, with the 7.3 grain Exact RS that I had ordered to try in this little gun, seemed to be the sweet spot for pellet weight in the powerplant? I immediately ordered more from Pyramid where I got these to try when I ordered the gun. So the followup order came today. Along with some H&N FTT GREEN 5.7 grain.
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The FTT green shot nearly as good as the RS, but on a calm day I think it may be a tie for best accuracy!

The FTT green definitely shot faster by about 100 fps. But as I always say, speed is WAY OVERATED!

So after the penetration test on several Walnuts at 20 to 25 yards with both pellets, the 7.3 grain RS will be the pellet of choice in this rifle! It not only penetrated obviously better, it opend up as well and that means more energy transfer to the target. The FTT green 5.7 grain didnt even look like it had been shot! That with less penetration, makes it about worthless to me.
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But as I said, they shoot about as good, for nearly twice the money! I'll stick with lead, unless I use it somewhere the tree huggers have had the use of lead forbidden, then Id switch to them. The good thing with this rifle is, as with the three pellets I tried above, They all shoot to the same POI! Very forgiving for such a little light rifle.

It and the 50s get the most shooting time anymore, until hunting season. Then the big R10 and 77K take center stage. Both HO tuned by John Thomas. But I started buying more Springers to get away of Competition Match shooting. I will probably start selling off some of my centerfires, as Benchrest short and long range, as well as the factory modified and custom Varmint for score matches are just to tmuch money and travel anymore for my liking. But not looking to get into more competitive shooting, time to wind down, and smell the roses!
But your choice of pellet seems to be spot on with what I have tried to be the best all round choice!
 
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I shot it monday as soon as I cleaned it after unboxing, with the 7.3 grain Exact RS that I had ordered to try in this little gun, seemed to be the sweet spot for pellet weight in the powerplant? I immediately ordered more from Pyramid where I got these to try when I ordered the gun. So the followup order came today. Along with some H&N FTT GREEN 5.7 grain.
View attachment 480635

The FTT green shot nearly as good as the RS, but on a calm day I think it may be a tie for best accuracy!

The FTT green definitely shot faster by about 100 fps. But as I always say, speed is WAY OVERATED!

So after the penetration test on several Walnuts at 20 to 25 yards with both pellets, the 7.3 grain RS will be the pellet of choice in this rifle! It not only penetrated obviously better, it opend up as well and that means more energy transfer to the target. The FTT green 5.7 grain didnt even look like it had been shot! That with less penetration, makes it about worthless to me.
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But as I said, they shoot about as good, for nearly twice the money! I'll stick with lead, unless I use it somewhere the tree huggers have had the use of lead forbidden, then Id switch to them. The good thing with this rifle is, as with the three pellets I tried above, They all shoot to the same POI! Very forgiving for such a little light rifle.

It and the 50s get the most shooting time anymore, until hunting season. Then the big R10 and 77K take center stage. Both HO tuned by John Thomas. But I started buying more Springers to get away of Competition Match shooting. I will probably start selling off some of my centerfires, as Benchrest short and long range, as well as the factory modified and custom Varmint for score matches are just to tmuch money and travel anymore for my liking. But not looking to get into more competitive shooting, time to wind down, and smell the roses!
But your choice of pellet seems to be spot on with what I have tried to be the best all round choice!
The JSB RS 7.33 shoot like lasers out of my HW30. I am sure the AA version would shoot great too. It. Seams to be the perfect pellet for that rifle.
 
"no one would ever reverse a brush in a bore"
That is not true. I had the experience (some 50yr back) where some over enthusiastic nitwit did just that and then did a bubba heave ho and sheared the threads. I got the brush out without damage to the bore (using a tactic I would never admit to) but there are newbies on this forum and your statement
"carfully stopping at bore exit" (SIC) worried me as to how it might be taken. This was on a .35Whelen imp. that I had built and stupidly sold to him, and I suspect he was using a much-oversized brush and panicked when it seemed to stick.

When you make something foolproof, God just makes a better fool.

I did not mean to impugn your vast knowledge of everything that shoots.
 
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"no one would ever reverse a brush in a bore"
That is not true. I had the experience (some 50yr back) where some over enthusiastic nitwit did just that and then did a bubba heave ho and sheared the threads. I got the brush out without damage to the bore (using a tactic I would never admit to) but there are newbies on this forum and your statement
"carfully stopping at bore exit" (SIC) worried me as to how it might be taken. This was on a .35Whelen imp. that I had built and stupidly sold to him, and I suspect he was using a much-oversized brush and panicked when it seemed to stick.

When you make something foolproof, God just makes a better fool.

I did not mean to impugn your vast knowledge of everything that shoots.
I should have specified a bronze brush. It is done with iosso and their nylon brushes all the time by many competition shooters, mainly long range 600 to 1000 yard competitors. I don't even use iosso on a brush, let alone run one back and forth thru the bore, but that's their instructions for heavy Carbon removal.

I simply do the same thing with a patch with iosso impregnated in it, I do this with all new barrels centerfire or air gun. Back and forth starting with short strokes and getting farther down the barrel and back all the way as if polishing a choke into a bore. But like I said, never a brush even nylon. It has never ruined a barrel, but has always improved them.

But yes I understand, we never know how some folks think, or what they read and think they did it the way it was intended. fortunately I have been guided by the most savvy shooters in the world, some Hall of fame shooters and the best innovators in the world.

Fortunately I listen, and believe me, no offense taken! We never know who we are dealing with on social media, least wise at first,,, (y)