Also do you have the newest cocking system on any of those in the picture? If so how do you like it compared to the old system?
Upvote 0
American Air Arms All Things EVOL - Master Thread
- Thread starter Ezana4CE
- Start date
The new cocking system is great. Between the standard rifle and the HPS, even at high power the 30 caliber is extremely easy to cock. Heck my son was able to manipulate with ease.
Upvote 0
Here's about the smallest FFP, parallax adjustable scope available. The Discovery HD 2-12×24 SFIR, mounted up on an Evol. 
Upvote 0
Has anyone removed the valve from their Evol?
My .22 is leaking past the valve. The leak is very very slow, and was verified with a balloon over the muzzle.
Maybe I missed it somewhere in this thread, but I have only read of 1 person having their valve assembly out, and there is nothing that I can find to give me a layout of the procedure.
I am guessing that the screw in the bottom of the receiver that says 'DO NOT REMOVE' plays into it, but would like to be sure before trying.
I have not tried to bend Tom's ear for advice, and really do not fancy sending it in for a spa treatment, but if it is required, I will.
The rifle is like 4 years old, and has never missed a beat until recently. It has to be a small bit of funk or grunge on the valve seat is all I can figure.
My .22 is leaking past the valve. The leak is very very slow, and was verified with a balloon over the muzzle.
Maybe I missed it somewhere in this thread, but I have only read of 1 person having their valve assembly out, and there is nothing that I can find to give me a layout of the procedure.
I am guessing that the screw in the bottom of the receiver that says 'DO NOT REMOVE' plays into it, but would like to be sure before trying.
I have not tried to bend Tom's ear for advice, and really do not fancy sending it in for a spa treatment, but if it is required, I will.
The rifle is like 4 years old, and has never missed a beat until recently. It has to be a small bit of funk or grunge on the valve seat is all I can figure.
Upvote 0
How does one go about replacing the probe o-ring? Also, I need the nomenclature of the 2 o-rings with arrows. THX
Those are the 2 o rings for the valve that I spoke of above.
013-11 90 durometer polyurethane.
The ones called out for reg piston and valve body.
013-11 90 durometer polyurethane.
The ones called out for reg piston and valve body.
Upvote 0
It is not an o-ring that fails under normal conditions. Why do you want to change it out? Best to use a hard plastic and carefully work it under the edge to pop it off. Alternatively, you can use a piece of dental floss like a bow saw and cut it without hurting the metal probe.
Upvote 0
It rubbed along the channel of the single shot tray, which was rough, plus the channel also caused the probe to lift a bit. I could feel the roughness of the tray through the cocking lever. I have since fixed the tray by sanding the channel smooth, concluding with 800 grit. Now chambering a round, pellet or slug, is super smooth and the probe no longer lifts. Still, seeing I have a few of these o-rings, I'd like to replace it with a new one.
Upvote 0
The evol has peaked my interest. I read you can expect 30 shots in 30cal- anyone know the shot count in .22? Also, did they discontinue the Mini22? I didn’t see it listed on the website.
Upvote 0
They are really efficient rigs for the smallish size of the air cylinders. But it really depends on how you have it tuned. I tune for power and don't care about shot count, getting two+ magazines with the .30. caliber. Other's have tuned the .22 caliber for shot count and have gotten upwards of four magazines worth of shots. You can't go wrong with the Evol for accuracy and a consistent shooting air rifle.
Upvote 0
Anyone happen to know how close/far we are to the release of the new HPS line? I’ve heard both end of summer and end of year.
Upvote 0
Thank you very much. I already asked them a few times and didn’t want to bother them again. I’ll wait instead of buying the current gen.
Upvote 0
Changing the probe o-ring on a EVOL .22 ...
The tubing I used is 3/8in ID x 5/8in OD tubing for water cooled PC builds. Other tubing would certainly work or possibly even a piece of 1/4in thick wood. The piece I cut out is 7/8in x 1/2in, but 1 1/2in x 3/4in would be easier to handle. Lube the face of the probe shoulder that the o-ring has to go over. Slide the new o-ring onto the probe and line up the probe with hole you drilled in the tubing and with the convex side of the tubing towards the probe. Push the probe forward until the o-ring goes over the shoulder and seats in the groove. Once you have all the pieces in place it only takes a couple of seconds to place the o-ring.
I wasn't getting anywhere with floss in trying to remove the old o-ring, so I resorted to an X-ACTO knife. I cut part way through the o-ring and then used a blunt tipped dental tool to pop it off.
New test o-ring fully on the probe shoulder. If the old o-ring wasn't there another push on the cocking lever would seat the o-ring. I used 2 new o-rings in testing
This is a new o-ring that wasn't used for any testing. Test fires were fine, the seal is good. A bit of cleaning up and I'm done. I am now down to only 37 probe o-rings.
The tubing I used is 3/8in ID x 5/8in OD tubing for water cooled PC builds. Other tubing would certainly work or possibly even a piece of 1/4in thick wood. The piece I cut out is 7/8in x 1/2in, but 1 1/2in x 3/4in would be easier to handle. Lube the face of the probe shoulder that the o-ring has to go over. Slide the new o-ring onto the probe and line up the probe with hole you drilled in the tubing and with the convex side of the tubing towards the probe. Push the probe forward until the o-ring goes over the shoulder and seats in the groove. Once you have all the pieces in place it only takes a couple of seconds to place the o-ring.
I wasn't getting anywhere with floss in trying to remove the old o-ring, so I resorted to an X-ACTO knife. I cut part way through the o-ring and then used a blunt tipped dental tool to pop it off.
New test o-ring fully on the probe shoulder. If the old o-ring wasn't there another push on the cocking lever would seat the o-ring. I used 2 new o-rings in testing
This is a new o-ring that wasn't used for any testing. Test fires were fine, the seal is good. A bit of cleaning up and I'm done. I am now down to only 37 probe o-rings.
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Thanks to @Airgun-hobbyist for assistance in ways as to how to get this tough little 90 Duro o-ring onto the probe. A combination of one of his ideas and my use of a section of PC waterline tubing and sufficient lube did the trick. Initially I thought I might be able to heat up the o-ring with hot water and by doing so expand it and make it more flexible, allowing it to pushed into place. Nope, the little guy wasn't cooperative at all. Then there was putting the o-ring on the probe and pushing the probe forward through the tines of a plastic fork that was against the breech. This only resulted in the needless destruction of a plastic fork and the flattening of the o-ring. I needed something both strong enough to withstand the pressure of the probe, yet flexible enough to push the o-ring over the probe's shoulder without damage. I build water cooled gaming PCs, or I used to anyway. I now only build for myself. Anyway, I have a number of pieces of leftover waterline tubing, so I thought I'd give it a try. It worked like a charm when used with some Ultimox 226 on the probe shoulder face.
Upvote 0
Depending on caliber, an arrow nock works well, particularly on .22, if you happen to have one.
Upvote 0