N/A Open sights sight picture?

The top of my post would cover half the orange sticker. I sight in that the pellet strikes even with the tip of the post.

I find this more exact than covering a target or floating a target over the post. Targets change size. When the tip is the POI you put the tip on any size target accordingly.

6oclock target hold .



Reason

True air gun sights should be 1 click = 1/10mm at 10 m

I’ve done a lot of experimenting with targets. My repeated finding was that a center hold was the most repeatable for target shooting. Further gains were had by using a target that matched the apparent width of the front sight post at the desired range.

I had massive gains in ease of sighting when using a front globe and rear aperture system. The potential accuracy did not improve, but reaching the accuracy potential was much more repeatable.

I find that a 6 o’clock works best for plinking and hunting. Maintaining visual on smaller targets lead to more hits.

Also lighting will affect your point of impact quite a lot. This is less noticeable with a globe and aperture.

I suggest you test pellets with minimum 20 shot groups. The statistical noise in 3 and 5 shot groups makes them misrepresentative of the actual expected accuracy, by as much as 60-70%. Whereas a 20 shot group is closer to 20-30% of maximum error.

Good luck!

I sight in at 25 yards point of hold. About 3/4" above the frontt bead. As my range increases and my shots drop i elevate the front bead above the blade.

I use a gap or "margin" between the post and the target always. No matter the distance I always hold where I can see the target above the post.

I don't shoot (much) at paper targets. Just tiny objects like shotgun shells and green army men. I zero the rifle on a paper target at 25 for elevation. Zero at 45-50 for windage. Then elevate the bead above the blade for ranging whatever distance my reactive target is at.

So I suppose it's "point of hold" from 25 to 100. At 25 my bead is flush with the top of the blade. At 50 my bead is above the blade. At 100 the blade is way down at the base of the post where the barrel shroud begins. I never cover the target with the bead. Always above the bead. I'll play with the "margin" above the bead if I get a low shot.

I like tiny targets just big enough to focus on. Just an aiming point and no more. A shotgun shell poking out of a footprint at 40 yards is perfect. It's hard to hit but your misses are extremely close when your target is barely perceptible. Once your pattern opens up it does not matter as much but I always shoot at targets that are "too small".

Green army men from 20-35. Shotgun shells from 25-50. 3" plastic dinosaurs from 50-70. Soup cans or beer cans from 60-100. A little propane cylinder or an old coffee tumbler from 80-100. Always holding them above the bead and playing with bead height and "margins" to fine tune my elevation.

I shoot with open sights alot. Here is the sight picture I use. The key to using open sights is to focus on the front one, trust the sight picture, and like with any other sight, follow through.

Septicdeath said:

I shoot with open sights alot. Here is the sight picture I use. The key to using open sights is to focus on the front one, trust the sight picture, and like with any other sight, follow through.

View attachment 485562

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I agree this is how you zero at a given range when shooting paper targets.

How do you handle changes in range?

Bedrock Bob said:

I agree this is how you zero at a given range when shooting paper targets.

How do you handle changes in range?

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?? Just shoot I guess .. only if I go past 50y it can be a hold issue but 10m to 50 just a natural point ain shoot I guess .. I got posted stuff posted here on lots of iron shooting .. I rarely use a scope . ( I don't buy guns that don't have sights ) . That's like buying a car without a steering wheel..lol

For Olympic pistol and rifle, I use "sub-six" hold. For everything else, I use 6 o'clock.

Sub six was a revelation in precision shooting for me but would be unworkable for variable ranges, target to backstop contrast, and lighting.

Star7 said:

For Olympic pistol and rifle, I use "sub-six" hold. For everything else, I use 6 o'clock.

Sub six was a revelation in precision shooting for me but would be unworkable for variable ranges, target to backstop contrast, and lighting.

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Having that gap between the bead and the POI is handy. I find it helps with range. Once you get used to whittling away at your gap you can shoot at any range until the POI falls behind the bead.

I switched to elevating the front post instead. My close shots are more accurate holding a conventional sighting picture and playing with less "gap". But as soon as I start to fall behind the bead (32-35 yds) I use more post and start playing with the "gap" to get it right.

So I suppose for me it's Point of Hold at close range and "sub six" from 35 on out. I have about 4 sight pictures I use with the elevated post. I hold it there and shoot with more or less "gap" below the target as I transition ranges.

Bedrock Bob said:

I agree this is how you zero at a given range when shooting paper targets.

How do you handle changes in range?

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With the gun zero at 25 yards, and your point of impact will be half an inch high at 40 yards, dead-on around 55 yards, and 4–6 inches low at 100 yards, depending on the weight of the pellet and the speed of the pellet. At least this has been my general experience, however I seldom shoot over 60 yards or so.

Keep a DOPE book: Data On Personal Equipment. Record the distance to which your rifle is sighted with particular ammo, and make adjustments accordingly when the distance changes. Know how your sights are calibrated and don't be afraid to adjust them. If your rifle is zeroed to 25 yards, and you need to make a 100-yard shot, you should be able to make a quick sight adjustment to raise your point of impact 4–6 MOA.

My gun zeroed at 25 is a half inch low at 30. 1/4 inch high at 20. On at 15. Hw95 at 680 fps. The Hatsan shoots flatter but not much. I just wing it.

I never adjust the sights. Just learn the curve and hold the bead high. If I adjust at all it is to re zero elevation at 25 and windage at 50.

I keep a dope sheet for the high power. In inches. I don't use the mil dots to aim with scope or irons. I visualize drop in inches on the target and hold over.

With an airgun I shoot off the mil dots in the scope. Opposite of the high power. No dope sheet. I don't range targets anymore with the air rifle. I just hold the bead high and work the "gap".

I suppose everyone has a different method.

First off I doubt I could see a 1.5" target at 30 open sights I'll shoot 15 yards with 1" target and use a center hold "cover half" of the orange. At 25 yards I use a scope with 1" targets.

Simplemann said:

First off I doubt I could see a 1.5" target at 30 open sights I'll shoot 15 yards with 1" target and use a center hold "cover half" of the orange. At 25 yards I use a scope with 1" targets.

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50y R9 stock irons(lolly) cphp .177 using 6oclock hold

Then 5'mo..

I can't see tiny targets through the hood on the front sight. I see them fine until I raise up the gun. They disappear in the "korntunnel". I call it korntunnel vision.

The open front sights on the hatsan give me tabooleh vision. No problem with tiny targets at range. No hood no problems.

I used to HATE illuminated sights. I much preferred steel sight blades and no color changes or white dots. Nowadays I love the lucite dots. I don't even pay much attention to the rear sight blade surface anymore. I can't see it at all when it's in front of a hooded sight or below the front shroud. A peep is better but it still makes tiny targets tough to see at range and a peep is horrible unless you are adjusting your elevation between shots.

The HW sights are super quality. I thought they would be great. But I can only use them in bright sunlight. The Diana sights are groovy. But the korntunnel vision stops me from targeting tiny specks at distance. The wobbly old Hatsan sights work great for me these days. Despite the huge glowing pumpkin up front I can target small spots st range pretty well.

My eyes are going south fast these days. No doubt a huge factor. What once was a great sight is now difficult for me. And changing light in the evenings is a big challenge.

I can hit great all day and start having elevation issues at dusk. Even in the scope. It never was (much) of a problem before. But now lighting is a major issue. Especially when shooting "off the gap" over the front bead.

My sight picture is about 15 yards "too high" to hit the dot in low light. Sometimes it frustrates me. I'm learning to just aim higher and not think about it. But whenever the gun isn't hitting where it was before I smell smoke coming from my brain.

Hateful McNasty said:

50y R9 stock irons(lolly) cphp .177 using 6oclock hold
View attachment 485630
Then 5'mo..
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You have been blessed with good eye sight

Simplemann said:

You have been blessed with good eye sight

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I use glasses. Just can't shoot using them poor arms length vision but good past that ..lol

Bedrock Bob said:

I can't see tiny targets through the hood on the front sight. I see them fine until I raise up the gun. They disappear in the "korntunnel". I call it korntunnel vision.

The open front sights on the hatsan give me tabooleh vision. No problem with tiny targets at range. No hood no problems.

I used to HATE illuminated sights. I much preferred steel sight blades and no color changes or white dots. Nowadays I love the lucite dots. I don't even pay much attention to the rear sight blade surface anymore. I can't see it at all when it's in front of a hooded sight or below the front shroud. A peep is better but it still makes tiny targets tough to see at range and a peep is horrible unless you are adjusting your elevation between shots.

The HW sights are super quality. I thought they would be great. But I can only use them in bright sunlight. The Diana sights are groovy. But the korntunnel vision stops me from targeting tiny specks at distance. The wobbly old Hatsan sights work great for me these days. Despite the huge glowing pumpkin up front I can target small spots st range pretty well.

My eyes are going south fast these days. No doubt a huge factor. What once was a great sight is now difficult for me. And changing light in the evenings is a big challenge.

I can hit great all day and start having elevation issues at dusk. Even in the scope. It never was (much) of a problem before. But now lighting is a major issue. Especially when shooting "off the gap" over the front bead.

My sight picture is about 15 yards "too high" to hit the dot in low light. Sometimes it frustrates me. I'm learning to just aim higher and not think about it. But whenever the gun isn't hitting where it was before I smell smoke coming from my brain.

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Ya, the hw sights are hard if the lighting ain't good and good blurring .

I kinda reminded it some .

I got a sun shield over the rear that helps cut blurry on the notch and gold dot the posts . Ain't 100% but does help some

I got a thread on what's done here somewhere

2 examples of a few needed on hw sight fixes

I go with blade target contrast. With orange targets my black front post can aim at center. If the bull is black, I shoot at 6:00 because it's hard to see a black front post on black bull.
For hunting I always choose 6:00 so I have the critter in view before the shot.
I also take very small pests with a 10 meter rfile peep and circle front hole in clear poycarbonite.. Hold over IS possible.

DonC said:

I go with blade target contrast. With orange targets my black front post can aim at center. If the bull is black, I shoot at 6:00 because it's hard to see a black front post on black bull.
For hunting I always choose 6:00 so I have the critter in view before the shot.
I also take very small pests with a 10 meter rfile peep and circle front hole in clear poycarbonite.. Hold over IS possible.

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That's a great idea for a peep. I've never seen one. Kinda the best of both worlds.