220 Volt Yong Heng?

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Airgun Al said:
Is 18 gauge wireing, large enough, for a 220 device?
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back In the day most vehicles were 6 volt systems, this required large wires, war metal (copper) shortages drove the change to 12 volt in the industry because by upping the voltage you don’t need as big a wires to accomplish the same tasks like run headlight, starters etc.

24v systems kind of continue down that same path… now that’s all dc systems, but my guess is that the wire size is fine for the load with a 220v pump.

You could probably even rewire it to match your 110v motor. Most of these Chinese electric motors can be wired up to either 110 or 220 is my understanding from the woodworking world. That way they make one motor for multiple markets.

edit-after reading previous posts there’s input from far more experienced folks than I!
 
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JimD said:
My code book is several generations old but the need for GFCI was by the area of the house, not any characteristic of the load. The garage and bathroom and outside outlets get GFCI. Maybe things have changed.

My YH does not pull more than 15A running. It probably does at startup. It is on a 20A circuit but it not nearly the only thing on that circuit. In addition, I started and ran it on a large Milwaukee power supply that only supplies 15A. It normally is plugged into a power strip with a 15A breaker on it. It has never tripped. It's a pretty decent sized load but not as big as other things I run at 120V (like my SawStop and my MIG welder). The power strip also has the water pump and a little 8 inch fan and small 120V fans for the radiator on it, all going through the 15A breaker. The extra loads are all quite small but substantiate that the running current is under 15A.

I think that people enamored with 220V service don't really understand electricity very well. 220V is just line to line instead of line to ground. It's still a single phase motor. The current is half as high but that is the only real difference. If you need more than 20A at 120V then you use 220V. If your load is less, and the YH is well under 20A, then you use 120V.
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I know that where I live we have a small diesel generator power plant for the town. running a 120v wire feed welder on a dedicated circuit close to the panel will drive you nuts. The power is pretty ”dirty” on the remote system. Take that same welder and switch it to 220 and it’s a night and day difference.…

I don’t understand the how’s and why’s of what’s happening, just that I only use 220 now when I can for welding…Alaska bush living at it’s finest!
 
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18 gauge wire would be small for 110V for the YH but fine for 220V. Depending on the temperature rise you consider acceptable and the length of the wire I saw values of 12-16 amps limit for 18 gauge in a quick google search. The YH should draw no more than 8 amps on 220V. Current for a given wire size is more complicated than some would think since the length of the wire makes a significant difference. In a house, 14 gauge wire is used for 15A circuits and 12 gauge for 20 amp circuits.

Welders can draw a lot of current depending on their output. My little MIG doesn't have a problem on 15A 110V circuits in my house but I've only welded small things with it so I had the output turned down pretty low. I don't have any problem believing 220V. could work better working from a specific generator.
 
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JimD said:
18 gauge wire would be small for 110V for the YH but fine for 220V. Depending on the temperature rise you consider acceptable and the length of the wire I saw values of 12-16 amps limit for 18 gauge in a quick google search. The YH should draw no more than 8 amps on 220V. Current for a given wire size is more complicated than some would think since the length of the wire makes a significant difference. In a house, 14 gauge wire is used for 15A circuits and 12 gauge for 20 amp circuits.

Welders can draw a lot of current depending on their output. My little MIG doesn't have a problem on 15A 110V circuits in my house but I've only welded small things with it so I had the output turned down pretty low. I don't have any problem believing 220V. could work better working from a specific generator.
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I believe I will simply swap the male end of the included power cord, so that it fits my 220 wall outlet, and proceed with extreme caution!
And I do mean EXTREME caution!
 
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I just finished installing a 150mm axial fan on my brand new Yong Heng for increased airflow and airflow with the compressor off to cool motor during break cycle.
While wiring the fan and new toggle switch, I noticed a yellow wire that had deliberately cut. My compressor is 110 volt, so I suspect that the yellow wire is is utilized for the 220 volt version. Maybe someone with the 220 volt version can chime in here with some wire color observations or pictures of theirs?
2024-08-1008.03.20109214890709922598.jpg
 
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Also, the 110 volt cord that came on the compressor is a wierd size, 15 gauge, which is not sufficient for the compressor, let alone adding a 20 watt fan motor. I replaced my cord with a 14 gauge, high quality cord and soldered all the formally crimp on connectors. Wires to the motor appear to be cheap 14 gauge or 16 gauge. Never use an extension cord and plug it into a good circuit with a high quality 110 volt outlet. I installed one of the orange hospital grade outlets where I use the compressor, most people's outlets are worn out anyway. The compressor draws the most amperage of any 110 volt appliances made except a few 1875 watts heating appliances. My compressor runs noticeably faster, quieter and cooler now and I don't get thermal shutdowns like my brother's stock Youg Heng. Before I upgraded the cord and connectors, it seemed to pause for a second before actually starting and now it starts instantly with no hesitation. When you are pushing the limits of the 110 volt circuit, everything needs to be given the best wires and connections. Use a Flir One, $115 used on Amazon, to check for wiring issues and cooling system diagnostics. AND HAVE FUN DOING IT! The guns are not only part of the pcp hobby!
 
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