Yep, that is the position my rail is in. I did a mechanical zero of the scope and got some interesting results. I started with the elevation, turned it all the way down till it stopped then went up 146 clicks until it stopped again. So, 73 clicks back down should be mechanical center. Then I did windage, took it all the way to the left till it stopped and then went 271 clicks to the right till it stopped. This is when I scratched my head and said WTH? Why would there be almost twice as much adjustment on windage as there is on elevation?
In any event, I moved it 135 clicks to the right, which again should be dead center. I dropped the front ring till it was as f far down as it could go and locked it down. The first shot (in the blue tape) was mechanical zero. The next (in the middle) was one full turn of the turret, the 3rd, (closest to the bullseye) was bottomed out!
Then I flipped the rail around, facing it in the opposite direction. I recentered the scope and started over. The first 2 shots (lowest on the target) were mechanical zero, the next was one full turn of the turret upward. The next, just above the bullseye was maxed out all the way up. The one under it was after backing it off about 16 clicks.
This still did not seem right, so I flipped the rail back around to where it's supposed to be and recentered the elevation again. This time I shot at a clean target at 35 yards. Rather than messing with the turrets, I adjusted the windage by loosened the screws on the adjustable mounts and moved the front one up until I was close to zero. I then sighted at my 35 yard target and did the same. Once I was within an inch or so from the bullseye, I finished zeroing it with the turrets. This is the gap on the front ring:
Compared to the back ring:
After that it got too hot and I quit. I probably need to try another scope, because the difference in the adjustments between elevation and windage sure doesn't seem right to me
