Homemade PCP receiver

After my recent horrible experience with FX Dreamline POI shift issues I decided to build a receiver which I could clamp in a bench vise, then insert the FX barrel assembly so that I could see what's up with these liner/shroud set up's (ie. why the annoying POI shifts) independent of the rest of the FX rifle & the shooter. Anyhoo, in the meantime I figured out what the issue at the heart of the FX Dreamline accuracy is: it has no barrel. To make this gun shoot, the .177 version anyway, is as simple as throwing the stock straw/noodle/liner or whatever you call it in the trash, along with the flimsy little wagon wheels spacers & the shroud. Then, buy a real barrel & have someone machine it for you so it fits the FX receiver, problem solved!!!
I had already started machining my homemade receiver though so I thought I'd finish it up & post some progress. Caution: I am not a machinist by any standards! I am a tinkerer, go ahead & criticize my methods & machining standards all you want, I am always willing to learn!

I grabbed a piece of 6061 billet & drilled two holes all the way through with a long 1/4" drill bit from the hardware store:
tempImagesmYKCJ.jpg


Enlarged & reamed top hole for an 18" Crossman barrel that I have lying around:
tempImageeFBaiH.jpg


Removed some material ahead of the lower hole so the valve could fit in there;
tempImage7mUIQy.jpg


Used a boring bar to enlarge bottom hole to .788" to accept valve:

tempImageghIt8c.jpg


Test fit el-cheapo Amazon valve. Right after I bought this I saw one in Fleabay that comes with a regulator. I may upgrade to that if this receiver turn out ok, the front parts are the same:
tempImage5ZM575.jpg


Plunging the transfer port, I used an end mill since I was drilling through the barrel channel, drill bit likely would've walked:
tempImagejnl6ow.jpg


Drilled & tapped some holes for a pic rail, you know, in case we wanna scope this sucker. Machinists may scorn me for tapping with the mill: I'm lazy ok, if it's faster I'm doin' it:
tempImageCuVnLP.jpg


Scope rail holes & transfer port plug tapped:
tempImageM1kWn9.jpg

I always consult my meticulous technical drawings before I cut:
tempImagejwQEob.jpg


Time to cut the loading port:
tempImageqkQ8rK.jpg


Little more room:
tempImageUAxPbn.jpg


Test fit barrel, valve & tank:
tempImageimxlKc.jpg


Sorry for the lengthy thread, when I have more time I'll do more work on the thing& see where it goes (cue your words of encouragement here).
 
After my recent horrible experience with FX Dreamline POI shift issues I decided to build a receiver which I could clamp in a bench vise, then insert the FX barrel assembly so that I could see what's up with these liner/shroud set up's (ie. why the annoying POI shifts) independent of the rest of the FX rifle & the shooter. Anyhoo, in the meantime I figured out what the issue at the heart of the FX Dreamline accuracy is: it has no barrel. To make this gun shoot, the .177 version anyway, is as simple as throwing the stock straw/noodle/liner or whatever you call it in the trash, along with the flimsy little wagon wheels spacers & the shroud. Then, buy a real barrel & have someone machine it for you so it fits the FX receiver, problem solved!!!
I had already started machining my homemade receiver though so I thought I'd finish it up & post some progress. Caution: I am not a machinist by any standards! I am a tinkerer, go ahead & criticize my methods & machining standards all you want, I am always willing to learn!

I grabbed a piece of 6061 billet & drilled two holes all the way through with a long 1/4" drill bit from the hardware store:
View attachment 489155

Enlarged & reamed top hole for an 18" Crossman barrel that I have lying around:
View attachment 489156

Removed some material ahead of the lower hole so the valve could fit in there;
View attachment 489157

Used a boring bar to enlarge bottom hole to .788" to accept valve:

View attachment 489158

Test fit el-cheapo Amazon valve. Right after I bought this I saw one in Fleabay that comes with a regulator. I may upgrade to that if this receiver turn out ok, the front parts are the same:
View attachment 489159

Plunging the transfer port, I used an end mill since I was drilling through the barrel channel, drill bit likely would've walked:
View attachment 489160

Drilled & tapped some holes for a pic rail, you know, in case we wanna scope this sucker. Machinists may scorn me for tapping with the mill: I'm lazy ok, if it's faster I'm doin' it:View attachment 489161

Scope rail holes & transfer port plug tapped:
View attachment 489162
I always consult my meticulous technical drawings before I cut:
View attachment 489163

Time to cut the loading port:
View attachment 489164

Little more room:
View attachment 489165

Test fit barrel, valve & tank:
View attachment 489166

Sorry for the lengthy thread, when I have more time I'll do more work on the thing& see where it goes (cue your words of encouragement here).
Hello @bsahogger

Super cool, hope you keep us up to date on all your work.

ThomasT
 
I am toying with the idea of firing this with a solenoid. I can control the duty cycle with a chip, probably Arduino because that's about as complicated as my brain goes, electronics wise. Since I initially wanted this to be bench mounted system the extra weight of a battery & electronics don't matter:
tempImageHCMNdy.jpg


Initial reservations were that the solenoid wouldn't be powerful enough, it's rated at 55N but them pcp poppet valves need quite a bit of force. Well this sucker seems to be doing the job, after about 5 hits & very loud pops from seemingly adequate bursts of air that 5mm acorn nut was dented pretty good. I was using a 18 Volt battery though, accidentally grabbed that one instead of one of the 12V Milwaukees. The solenoid is rated for 12V, not sure how it would hold up long term if I need more oomph & jack it up to 18V.

tempImagetzJ3cB.jpg
 
Tapping with mill = great. Looking good. Holding endmill with chuck is a little dicey, collet is more rigid. Can't wait to see end reault.
Sorry! It's not that I don't know better, in some of the pics you'll see me using collets, it's just that I'm lazy. I take small cuts though, lotsa lube so I don't really have issues.
 
The simplest form of firing the solenoid consistently is from a charged capacitor (s).

The duty cycle will be very low and as such, voltage can be driven a lot higher than normal for a given solenoid.

Dave
This I like. I would need to be able to have maximum control over the striking force, otherwise I might just stick to a spring loaded hammer set up where I can change spring tension. I was also thinking that I could add weight to the back of the solenoid shaft to give it a bit more go. Will also have to make a harder face for it, probably capture a piece of tungsten in a screw on disc. I hope that the solenoid is more consistent than a conventional hammer...
 
This I like. I would need to be able to have maximum control over the striking force, otherwise I might just stick to a spring loaded hammer set up where I can change spring tension. I was also thinking that I could add weight to the back of the solenoid shaft to give it a bit more go. Will also have to make a harder face for it, probably capture a piece of tungsten in a screw on disc. I hope that the solenoid is more consistent than a conventional hammer...
A depleting capacitor is very consistent. Obviously, you can change force and dwell with your voltage and capacitance. A boost converter is cheap and will easily get you above 50v which you will want, so gather caps accordingly rated. Charge the caps through a resistor and you can fire with a SCR which will conduct until the cap is depleted (mostly) and will turn off. Others here are more experienced with this method than I.

I drive mine with an arduino but I have to use a MOSFET with it and the flyback needs careful management. And I’m also driving a smaller solenoid for a pilot type application. It works but is way more challenging (headache).

Dave
 
A depleting capacitor is very consistent. Obviously, you can change force and dwell with your voltage and capacitance. A boost converter is cheap and will easily get you above 50v which you will want, so gather caps accordingly rated. Charge the caps through a resistor and you can fire with a SCR which will conduct until the cap is depleted (mostly) and will turn off. Others here are more experienced with this method than I.

I drive mine with an arduino but I have to use a MOSFET with it and the flyback needs careful management. And I’m also driving a smaller solenoid for a pilot type application. It works but is way more challenging (headache).

Dave
I used an Arduino with a mosfet set up driving a 12V auto starter motor solenoid years back for a cnc wire cutter that I made. I am leaning more & more towards using the solenoid instead of a spring hammer, it'll prolong the project a bit & add some depth.
 
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