Diana Is my Diana 34 worthy of a scope?

I have had that scope on a Sig ASP20 and a Diana 48. It should be capable, and you have the correct mount. The sight line with a scope is higher than iron sights, so the pellet will be rising out to about 25 or 30 yards where it starts to fall again. This means that on close shots you have to hold over to hit the target. Is that the problem?

Your scope mounts are slipping. Or you are way out of optical center on the scope. The scope may be bad.

How many clicks up to get it to zero?

Mounts are a huge pain. The scope is probably fine. It could be scrambled though. Swap scopes and see if that works.

You are using a good mount. Try a thin coat of lacquer in the rings top and bottom. Let it get sticky before you clamp them down. That should stop any slip or twist.

Your scope is mounted pretty close to the turret and the eye bell to get your eye relief. Probably no big issue but I like to keep the straps away from the turret 1/2" or so. The configuration of the scope and the one piece mounts can get tricky sometimes.

The D34 is a super gun. Tack driver. Very worthy of a good scope. Keep trying things. You will figure it out.

I like the Diana iron sights and shoot my D34 that way. It has scrambled a couple scopes too. I fought with drifting zero and scope issues a lot. I shoot mostly iron sights as a result now. But if you get a good scope mounted solidly you can shoot flies at 25 yards with it no problem.

Temperature drift in a scope/mount system is real. All my scoped air rifles go a little wild and drift a few clicks at times. I'm often a few clicks off at 25. And temps will cause elevation issues with the gun too. It's a whole lot more noticeable with a scope. With iron sights you don't get the thermal change so much.

Welcome. Your answer may have already been given. Set up targets at several ranges and see where it hits without changing the scope setting. Does the cross hair have a "Christmas tree" style setup with extra aiming points to help with hold over or hold under and wind? If the scope doesn't work out perhaps see about a rear aperture. Be Well, Bandito.

Diehard50248 said:

This summer I started “pest control” with a Diana Model 34 (circa 1998) air rifle passed down to me by my father-in-law. I’ve been impressed with the power and accuracy compared to the Daisy BB guns I grew up with.

I was having such success using just the iron sites that I figured I could get even more accuracy by adding a scope. I bought a Vortex Optics Crossfire II (4-12x40 AO). As soon as I installed the scope I started missing. I zeroed in the scope (several times) but it never stayed put. After several weeks of frustration, I removed the scope and started killing the varmints like before.

So here’s my question…Should my Diana 34 be worthy of a scope? Is it possible that a break barrel wears out to the point that the barrel doesn’t snap back into the same position each time? In my mind this would explain why I seem to be more accurate with iron sites. I’m not as young as I used to be, and a scope would help.

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Welcome to the best AGN . did you check all the mount screws ? are they torqued properly ? also run a few patches through the barrel , barrel can look clean and shiny

I don't know about the Bushnell.

Barrels on those guns droop. Even if they don't a few degrees "down in the front" gives you more range.

I use a UTG picatinny rail with a 10 degree taper. It gives some droop compensation. And any configuration of scope can be mounted with regular scope rings.

They make one piece mounts that have droop. Both RWS and UTG. but the distance between the rings limits the mounting of some scopes. If the scope and rings work together it is great. If they don't you have eye relief problems. Unless you look closely at the measurements before buying its a crap shoot.

That's why I like a drooper picatinny. I can put those rings anywhere. And a low set of rings does not put the scope too high.

A Hawke Vantage fixed 4x is a hundred bucks. They work great with a lifetime warranty. It's not much scope but it's plenty for an airgun. A variable is 25 bucks more. Get a UTG low picatinny rail and low Sportsmatch 4 screw rings. That combo will set you back $175 and work perfectly.

Pyramid Air has a 90 day satisfaction guarantee. You can return anything for any reason. You get a shipping label so it costs nothing. And Hawke is lifetime replacement. So you can get things worked out within 90 days and not spend a pile of frogskins.

That bushnell is not a springer scope. The cheapest good springer scopes are the UTG 30mm tubed models. If you get an RWS locdown mount, it has the droop built in and was designed for your rifle. The droop thing isnt as big a deal as some make it out to be. If you you have to max out the top turret, just bend the barrel up a little bit to get it closer to center.

Skip droop mounts. Bend barrel if needed. Use BKL mounts and they will NEVER move period. Once properly torqued you can remove the clamping screws and beat it with a mallet all day and they will Not move. Ask me how I know.
And the 34 IS well worth scoping, you aint seen nothing yet.

John

For 1" diameter scopes I had good success with the BKL one piece droop compensated mount. Just degrease the dovetail surface and it shouldn't move.

Scrub that rascal out good. Then use a little jb bore paste 50 strokes. Clean it out good again and run a couple patches damp with acetone to get all the oil out. Then wax the bore good with shoe polish or paste wax. Put a little moly powder in it for kicks.

Get H&N FTT 14.66 grain pellets with a 5.53 head. Put one in the chamber. Close the gun. Don't shoot it. Open it back up and look at the pellet skirt. If it's flat on the bottom you need to use a little seating tool to get it deep enough so the face of the action does not clip it.

Not seating deep enough on that Diana will do that. I seated every shot with a tool until I polished the "chamber" out a tiny bit. I used a finish nail in a wooden dowel. Some guys use a stereo jack. You have to seat a little deeper with that angled barrel block or you deform the skirt.

Replace the breech seal.

Shoot it over a chronograph. It should be above 600 fps and within 15-20 fps over a 20 shot string. If it's not put a kit in it. Polish the innards. It's easy. A kid could do it in an afternoon. Plenty of instruction and good videos on it. You'll make more power and get a smoother shot cycle.

When it all checks out that gun will shoot well.

Shoot it until you can hit that prarie dog in the eye every shot. It should shoot one ragged hole under 3/4" @ 25 yards without any problem.

That's a fine gun and with time you can make it drive tacks.

maybe the pellets are not worthy of the rifle?

boscoebrea said:

maybe the pellets are not worthy of the rifle?

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Good point!

I've had good luck with anything about 15 grains in a quality pellet. I like H&N FTT or JSB's from 13-16 grains. Crosman domes shoot fairly well in it too. A pellet lighter than 13 or heavier than 16 opens the group up considerably.

Mine is not "pellet picky". It just likes pellets in that weight range. And the domes outshoot any other point design by a good margin. The lighter bimetal and alloy pellets haven't performed well at all for me.

It's a starting point. Your mileage may vary.

EDIT- I put on my glasses and expanded the photos. .177 cal. Daisy brand flat nosed pellets.

Get yourself a tin of Crosman domes. Those flat nose pellets aren't what you need. Round nosed pellets for sure @ 25 yards.

Diehard50248 said:

I found the Crosman Domes (10.5 grain) on Pyramid Air. Are those the ones You recommend? Or are there others in the 13-16 window I should look for instead? I‘ve been shooting Daisy flatheads up to now. The container makes no mention of grain weight, so I’m sure they’re nothing special. I picked up some Gamo hollow points (7.9 grain) last night at a local outdoor store. I’ll give them a try too.

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I don't shoot the .177. Only the .22. So I can't speak on pellet weight for that rifle. I can tell you it matters a lot with accuracy on any spring rifle.

Check out the threads in the springer section of the forum. Plenty of info on pellet weights.

Pyramid is a good outfit. Once you know an appropriate weight range order a tin of H&N FTT's and one of Crosman Domes. Get a tin of JSB's too. Then pick out one more. The fourth is free. Stick to domed pellets. Hollow points are OK but the domes are better accuracy for me. Any of them will be much better than the flat points you are shooting.

Order a scope and mounts while you are at it and get free shipping. Add a couple breech seals on the order too.

If someone does not chime in with a recommendation on pellet weights for .177 on this thread just browse the threads under traditional airguns. Plenty of info on Diana 34 in .177.

I'm clueless about the .177. All the info above is for .22. Everything else besides pellet weights remains relevant. Pellet weight and brand is important. Your rifle will love some and not others. Still, your worst pattern will be better than flat points @ 25 yds. You will find it shoots much better with the correct pellet. That may solve your problem completely.

Still clean and wax the bore and replace the breech seal. And if pellets don't get you to where you want to be consider a seal and a spring kit. If you want someone else to tune it for you there are lots of resources for that here too.

That gun is well worth fixing. They are truly sweet shooters. Even if you have to send it off to be professionally tuned it's a value. The guns are accurate and the triggers are great. It's a real classic and handles well. You can pay a bunch more and get less.

It was suggested that you bend the barrel instead of installing the drooper mount. That's solid advice if you are comfortable doing it. If not then have it done by an airgunsmith. It's fairly simple as long as you are careful. There are threads here and a blog on the internet that explain the process well.

A drooper mount will get you close and it's easy. About $20 and it's done. Decide if you want to bend the barrel after you get the rest of the details sorted out. Worry about barrel bending after you get it shooting well.

Just bend the barrel. YouTube has several videos on it. Not as difficult as you might think.

My D34 was bent in shipping after a repair. I read a blog on the Pyramid site. Read some posts here. Made a little jig and bent it back.

I made a post about it and showed a photo of the jig I used in a bench vice. I don't know how to link it. It was called "Barrel Bending Diana 34" You can find it with the search function on this forum. I think it was my very first post here.

It takes a few tries and a lot of force. It's not hard. You just have to go slow and easy.

Center your sights windage wise. Make sure your front sight is mounted vertical on the barrel. Shoot a couple into a target at 10 yards. Take the action out of the stock. Bend a little. Put it back in the stock and shoot it at the target. If it dosent move the pattern then bend with a little more force. Keep taking it out of the stock and bending it until your shots center.

Then mount an optically centered scope and do your elevation @ 25 yds.

It's as easy as that. Just make sure your jig is solid and your vice is strong. Lots of tension in a bend and if something breaks or gets loose you will have a rodeo.

@Diehard50248 - Welcome to AGN. Nice rifle, you will get it sorted out in no time. Try some better pellets for better accuracy. Safe bet .177 pellets are H&N Field Target Trophies 8.64 grain and 452 head size. JSB 10.34 grain 452 head size. Crosman 10.5 domes are worth trying also. Good luck and welcome to the rabbit hole!