I'm new here. Got out an old Shanghai springer that I've owned for nearly 30 years. Shot a bunch of pests with it this sumer. Then I recently bought a Daisy/Winchester Model 1000. Both are delivering about half the velocity they should. Guess I have some cleaning and piston lubing to do. Now I have a vintage Diana coming. Anxious to set it in front of my Chrony. What lube do you guys use for the piston seals? Any different for synthetic or leather seals? I'm guessing the Shanghai has leather. It probably needs a good cleaning to get the the dried/caked lube out. Hope, but not too optimistic, that the piston seal is still good. If not, where might I look for a seal? What bullet lube do guys use - if any. I never have used any.
Daisy New here
- Thread starter Nellie
- Start date
Welcome to AGN. I'm not familiar with seals on springers so I don't want to give you misinformation. I have C02 and multi pumps and I use Pellgun oil on all of them. I'm sure someone will be by shortly to advise you 
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Back in the day piston seals were of leather or a synthetic leather , either of which would dry out . Couple drops ofnoncombustible lube might bring it back to life. New units use various grades of O rings, those have to be replaced .
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Hello, Dupont Krytox 226 or 205, or Ulitmox 226 are good non dieseling lubes. Whatever you use keep from in front of the piston seal as best you can.
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To add to bustachip's comment, high-moly lube is what has been used for synth seal springers the longest and most commonly, those being much more available / affordable than Krytox / Ultimox. Moly lubes are potentially dieseling, but that can be avoided and excellent results gotten. The critical thing is to clean the compression chamber and the piston of any old lubrication, using brake cleaner, elbow grease etc., deburr the receiver cutouts so that the piston seal stays intact with re-entry, and use only a very small amount of the moly paste on the sides of the piston seal and the piston bearing surfaces front and back only. Then the lubrication stays out of the compression chamber through the shot cycles, and the gun works as intended.
Leather piston seals have completely different rules, in that it is perfectly OK to drip oil (neatsfoot is best) directly onto and into the seal through the transfer port, letting the oil soak in and literally make a sloshing sound in the chamber with piston movement. Doing this on a synth seal gun would result in massive dieseling and likely detonation (which breaks guns), but with a leather seal it's different, and in a way, much simpler and easier.
Leather piston seals have completely different rules, in that it is perfectly OK to drip oil (neatsfoot is best) directly onto and into the seal through the transfer port, letting the oil soak in and literally make a sloshing sound in the chamber with piston movement. Doing this on a synth seal gun would result in massive dieseling and likely detonation (which breaks guns), but with a leather seal it's different, and in a way, much simpler and easier.
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