If you need a "perfect" radius at each end, then drill (or plunge with endmill) to establish those ends. Any full-width endmill will cut at least slightly oversize, regardless of the number of flutes.
GsT
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Homemade PCP receiver
- Thread starter bsahogger
- Start date
GsT
I had a little time today so I got going on the trigger & firing switch. Had my reservations about the feel of a microswitch trigger, I thought that it would have the same feel as just pushing two spring loaded contact points together, ie. you wouldn't have an idea exactly when it was going to break, so I went down all kinds of rabbit holes thinking of a cam on the trigger that would have a plunger drop into a detent, hitting the switch, clean break deal... OCD bah blah. Anyway, switch came in & the more I pushed it the more I realized that it does have some kind of break system, it actually pops quite cleanly. So for now I decided to just have the trigger push directly onto the switch & I am happy with it. In the pics I'm trying to just show the slot I cut into the top of the trigger guard, without showing how raggedy it is: I used a 4 flute end mill again, don't want you guys yelling at me! I took some pics of the making of the trigger blade, then I deleted them all, it was an ugly affair, I'm talking portaband/Dremel/file/belt grinder... You know when politicians mess up real bad & start using phrases such as "lessons have been learnt" & "let us forge a NEW path, TOGETHER"... yeah it was that bad. Anyways it's in & it works. The slot in the trigger blade isn't for looks, I am still leaning towards a tactile switch as an extra safety measure (ala Glock trigger style, albeit electronic: no pushy trigger button, no shooty).
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Well, the trigger looks great in the pic! Are you using a supplemental trigger return spring, or just the spring from the switch?
GsT
GsT
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Haven't had time lately to work on the project, until this morning. I am too lazy to think much right now so I didn't start with the electonics, instead I opted to make the thing, You know the thing? Goes under the tank? Not much hands on work, after I drilled the mounting holes I just started hogging off material, using the auto-feed on the mill... nice when you don't have to do much. I'm always amazed when I machine billets of aluminum: you start off with a 6 pound block of material, when you're done the part weighs 2 pounds & you have 10 pounds worth of chips, all over the mill, wall, floor. I'll coolify it a bit later on with some slots etc. like the fancy "chassis" makers do.
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Just put big enough billets in the vise and mill away everything that doesn't look like a PCP
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Due to space constraints I had shorten both the hammer & the solenoid. I added a weight to the back of the hammer & inserted a dowel pin: the bolt now cocks the hammer (I still have to fabricate the hammer hold-back & stroke length adjuster device). Had to cut the solenoid wires to get it in.
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Not a word form me, which i will gladly admit have a problem getting a tap strait onto / into whatever just using hand tools.
Also a hack saw, ill be damned if i ever made 1 strait cut with one of those, always had to saw wayyyyy off the line and then file the rest.
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I get it.
Budget or no buget, before you let that hammer back out in public like tha, could you at least dress up it’s back side a little.
Budget or no buget, before you let that hammer back out in public like tha, could you at least dress up it’s back side a little.
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Waiting for the 5mm diameter magnets to come in, then I'll get the spacing figured out for the hammer hold-back/depth-adjusting thing, then I'll make it pretty. These dang iphones with their clear pics, can't get away with anything!I get it.
Budget or no buget, before you let that hammer back out in public like tha, could you at least dress up it’s back side a little.
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