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What version alkin did you purchase?

  • Auto

    Votes: 13 38.2%
  • Manual

    Votes: 21 61.8%

  • Total voters
    34
@grackleblast Thanks for the response. I’ll have to look into one of those. They’re high though.

After topping off the last tank, I run mine for about a minute with the 1st and 2nd stage valves open before shutoff. Then I shut down and drain the purifier tower. Finally I make sure all pressure is out of the fill line. Why do you recommend running for 5 mins?
 
Another option, and this is assuming you don’t have auto shutdown. When you finish filling your first tank and close the tank valve the compressor is of course still running. You now have seconds before the pressure in the fill line reaches 5000 psi and then the overpressure valve on the drier starts opening to vent the overpressure, which is what it should do. If you are wanting to leave the compressor running and prevent the overpressure valve from opening you could just open the drier drain valve a bit to keep it below the over pressure valve threshold. Then, disconnect tank one and connect tank two, open tank valve, close drier drain valve and begin filling.
Another option is spend a few bucks (probably one or two hundred) and set up a cascade line with all tanks connected at one time.
In that method you connect everything, leave fill whip valve closed, open both tank valves slowly to equalize pressure in both tanks. Note the psi, then turn on compressor and watch pressure gauge on fill whip increase until it’s at same pressure as tanks, then open fill whip valve and begin filling.
At the dive shop I worked at we had eight bank bottles that were all cascaded together. When topping them off to 6000psi we did them individually because they were all at different pressures and equalizing all eight would take a long time. So we just watched our fill panel as we did busy work nearby and closed and opened valves as each bottle reached 6000psi. Sometimes though, certain staff members would equalize all eight tanks and then just let them fill equally to 6000psi. It seemed like the compressor ran longer that way but we never really timed it to verify that.

Edit: If I didn’t explain that very well, PM me and I can sketch and or spec some parts that would be required for cascading.
 
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Supposedly it will push out any moisture in the cylinders so no rust or corrosion will form. I started doing that when I heard about it. Can’t hurt.
@rcs9250 For 5 minutes though? Why would the cylinders rust with oil in there? I could see if the compressor sits for a while. I’m asking because I don’t see much moisture coming out while running with the valves open. I’ll have to look into this further.
 
Who tops off multiple tanks? I did early this morning and I’m sure I did something out of order. I think I opened the second tank’s valve too soon before the compressor fill line matched the tank pressure. I’m also wondering if I should’ve opened the 1st and 2nd stage valves before restarting the compressor after I shut off the compressor to disconnect tank #1 in order to connect to tank #2nto begin topping off. I know I can watch a video and I will later. I’m posting this in the event someone else has a brain fart or mixes up the order of things in their fill process.

Someone correct me, what should I have done and not done?
I found my answer in post #5 in the linked thread below asking the same question.
https://www.airgunnation.com/thread...-filling-more-than-one-tank-question.1280976/
 
Another option, and this is assuming you don’t have auto shutdown. When you finish filling your first tank and close the tank valve the compressor is of course still running. You now have seconds before the pressure in the fill line reaches 5000 psi and then the overpressure valve on the drier starts opening to vent the overpressure, which is what it should do. If you are wanting to leave the compressor running and prevent the overpressure valve from opening you could just open the drier drain valve a bit to keep it below the over pressure valve threshold. Then, disconnect tank one and connect tank two, open tank valve, close drier drain valve and begin filling.
Another option is spend a few bucks (probably one or two hundred) and set up a cascade line with all tanks connected at one time.
In that method you connect everything, leave fill whip valve closed, open both tank valves slowly to equalize pressure in both tanks. Note the psi, then turn on compressor and watch pressure gauge on fill whip increase until it’s at same pressure as tanks, then open fill whip valve and begin filling.
At the dive shop I worked at we had eight bank bottles that were all cascaded together. When topping them off to 6000psi we did them individually because they were all at different pressures and equalizing all eight would take a long time. So we just watched our fill panel as we did busy work nearby and closed and opened valves as each bottle reached 6000psi. Sometimes though, certain staff members would equalize all eight tanks and then just let them fill equally to 6000psi. It seemed like the compressor ran longer that way but we never really timed it to verify that.

Edit: If I didn’t explain that very well, PM me and I can sketch and or spec some parts that would be required for cascading.
You can do a two-tank cascade much simpler and cheaper with a Stikman splitter from AirTanksPlus for only about $65 - I use one to charge two tanks at the same time with my Shoebox compressor and it works great (slow, but steady!). And if you want to do more than two tanks you can just get more than one adapter and keep splitting . . . https://airtanksplus.com/product/tm...tter-female-foster-to-2-male-foster-fittings/
 
@rcs9250 For 5 minutes though? Why would the cylinders rust with oil in there? I could see if the compressor sits for a while. I’m asking because I don’t see much moisture coming out while running with the valves open. I’ll have to look into this further.
With the drain valves open in all three stages there’s no compression going on. So I guess the thought is it could be drying out the area where moisture might live.
 
@grackleblast Thanks for the response. I’ll have to look into one of those. They’re high though.

After topping off the last tank, I run mine for about a minute with the 1st and 2nd stage valves open before shutoff. Then I shut down and drain the purifier tower. Finally I make sure all pressure is out of the fill line. Why do you recommend running for 5 mins?
I just want to give the compressor a chance to purge any moisture from the cylinders and run without any pressure.....kind of like a cool down lap...

realistically , I probably only run it 2 or 3 minutes........
 
While perusing the Alkin site for maintenance parts, I saw this oil filter and air intake filter. Anyone change these on a W31 Mariner?


Now it looks like they only sell the oil by the gallon for $160 per gallon? $400 for 2.5 gallons and $45 for 1/4 gallon. What is a 1/4 gallon? What happened to the quart containers?

Edit: Well I just re-learned that 1/4 gallon = 1quart. I guess that answers that question. Now that I feel dumb for forgetting a simple weights and measures conversion, back to your normally scheduled program.
 
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While perusing the Alkin site for maintenance parts, I saw this oil filter and air intake filter. Anyone change these on a W31 Mariner?


Now it looks like they only sell the oil by the gallon for $160 per gallon? $400 for 2.5 gallons and $45 for 1/4 gallon. What is a 1/4 gallon? What happened to the quart containers?

Edit: Well I just re-learned that 1/4 gallon = 1quart. I guess that answers that question. Now that I feel dumb for forgetting a simple weights and measures conversion, back to your normally scheduled program.
that oil filter looks interesting, but I don't think my w31 has a place for it. hmmm maybe someone else can chime in.

wow that oil went up in price. I don't remember it being so expensive before.
 
In relation to dive compressor's, according to a master diver and retired air compressor rebuilder, cool down running with no pressure(all relief valves open) reduces the temperature inside the compressor. Hot air holds more moisture, duh.... Moisture can build up in a split second in the heat inside while just shutting down compressor. You let it cool down running, less heat, the air inside holds less water. Tons of dive compressor's in novice hands in places like Florida with high dewpoints, have to have full rebuilds in less than two years due to corrosion. The rebuilder told me it was nothing more than people not letting their compressors cool down running with all valves open, he rebuilt hundreds of Bauer's ruined by novices with less than 2-4 years use and mostly under 20 hours runtime. Vast majority from Fl and south east US . Not being commercial operations, a hobby diver's compressor may sit months without being used, if shut down without cool down in a humid environment, it will have standing water in the cylinders, not may have, but WILL have. Rebuild time in short order that way. Not so much in drier climates, but still possible so it is best practice to let high pressure compressor run a cool down with all valves open. I was told to run mine a minimum of 1.5 minutes after every use with valves all wide open based on using mine indoors in an HVAC controlled environment just to be safe. 1.5 minutes is an eternity waiting for it....but I do. I'll listen to the professional who did it for a living for decades.
 
In relation to dive compressor's, according to a master diver and retired air compressor rebuilder, cool down running with no pressure(all relief valves open) reduces the temperature inside the compressor. Hot air holds more moisture, duh.... Moisture can build up in a split second in the heat inside while just shutting down compressor. You let it cool down running, less heat, the air inside holds less water. Tons of dive compressor's in novice hands in places like Florida with high dewpoints, have to have full rebuilds in less than two years due to corrosion. The rebuilder told me it was nothing more than people not letting their compressors cool down running with all valves open, he rebuilt hundreds of Bauer's ruined by novices with less than 2-4 years use and mostly under 20 hours runtime. Vast majority from Fl and south east US . Not being commercial operations, a hobby diver's compressor may sit months without being used, if shut down without cool down in a humid environment, it will have standing water in the cylinders, not may have, but WILL have. Rebuild time in short order that way. Not so much in drier climates, but still possible so it is best practice to let high pressure compressor run a cool down with all valves open. I was told to run mine a minimum of 1.5 minutes after every use with valves all wide open based on using mine indoors in an HVAC controlled environment just to be safe. 1.5 minutes is an eternity waiting for it....but I do. I'll listen to the professional who did it for a living for decades.
@karl_h Wow. I haven't heard this explanation, but I run mine for maybe 30 seconds to 1 minute with valves open. I run a dehumidifier when I run my compressor.
 
In relation to dive compressor's, according to a master diver and retired air compressor rebuilder, cool down running with no pressure(all relief valves open) reduces the temperature inside the compressor. Hot air holds more moisture, duh.... Moisture can build up in a split second in the heat inside while just shutting down compressor. You let it cool down running, less heat, the air inside holds less water. Tons of dive compressor's in novice hands in places like Florida with high dewpoints, have to have full rebuilds in less than two years due to corrosion. The rebuilder told me it was nothing more than people not letting their compressors cool down running with all valves open, he rebuilt hundreds of Bauer's ruined by novices with less than 2-4 years use and mostly under 20 hours runtime. Vast majority from Fl and south east US . Not being commercial operations, a hobby diver's compressor may sit months without being used, if shut down without cool down in a humid environment, it will have standing water in the cylinders, not may have, but WILL have. Rebuild time in short order that way. Not so much in drier climates, but still possible so it is best practice to let high pressure compressor run a cool down with all valves open. I was told to run mine a minimum of 1.5 minutes after every use with valves all wide open based on using mine indoors in an HVAC controlled environment just to be safe. 1.5 minutes is an eternity waiting for it....but I do. I'll listen to the professional who did it for a living for decades.
smart advice. Thank you for sharing
 
I have had my Alkin for a couple months, I also have three great white size tanks and three small tanks , Instead of filling all the tanks at once I have decided to fill one tank as needed , I go through a tank about every 30 days or so, Sometimes more sometimes less , Anyway It boils down to me using the compressor once a month instead of letting it set for three to four months , From what I have read this just works out better for the compressor , Little more work for me , But the 4500 $ price tag was a big one to swallow ,,,, I just want to keep it happy,,,,
Mike
 
Alkin owners We should start a thread!

How many hours do you have on your machine. Any maintenance done? Filters, oil, issues?

I have 4 hours on my w31. Working like a champ!

View attachment 271952
I really enjoy my W31 full auto vertical. company originally screwed up sending me a demo.... but i caught the mistake immediately and they corrected their problem and sent a new unit.
 
Very Important... Take the compressor off the pallet, those pallets are made for shipping purposes only (cheap wood). The vibration from the pallet will cause leaks and cracks on joints, there is also a sign on the compressor that says it should be removed from the pallet.
Frank, do you have a specific link for the moisture removal cartridge on a upright mariner W-31? I'm wanting to have materials on hand for an oil change and filter change etc... in the near future.
 
Frank, do you have a specific link for the moisture removal cartridge on an upright mariner W-31? I'm wanting to have materials on hand for an oil change and filter change etc... in the near future.
@cavedweller Not sure if you’re looking for a cheaper alternative, but the link in post #430 contains all of the above.
 
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