FX FX AMP regulator question

Does anyone know the size and thread type of the adjustment screw in the AMP regulator? I’d like to polish the mating portion of the screw to reduce any creep. I’m trying to make a jig that the adjustment screw would go into ( kinda like a bolt and screw) that would allow me to polish the head better.
Anyone know the screw size and thread type.?
Simply using a leather strop with some green diamond embedded works wonders on the brass and the Deron, then finish on a plain strop
 
Simply using a leather strop with some green diamond embedded works wonders on the brass and the Deron, then finish on a plain strop
Yup! Haven’t polished the delrin yet!

Btw- just watched a new couple of threads from Ernest Rowe about titanium piston, replacing the brass piston with “PEEK” plastic (it’s a relatively new temp resistant chemistry) replacing the delrin.

I bought a leather “wheel” for my grinder like the one “Shooting with Phil” suggests. The issue is holding the adjustment screw while using the leather wheel. It gets hot quickly and is so small it is hard to handle in my stubby fingers!
My “jig” will be a bolt attached to a connector with the same threads as the adjustment screw, which will go into the other end of the connector. Biggest issue is finding a 5mm, 0.5 thread bolt and connector. Lots of places have 5mm, 0.8 thread.
 
Yup! Haven’t polished the delrin yet!

Btw- just watched a new couple of threads from Ernest Rowe about titanium piston, replacing the brass piston with “PEEK” plastic (it’s a relatively new temp resistant chemistry) replacing the delrin.

I bought a leather “wheel” for my grinder like the one “Shooting with Phil” suggests. The issue is holding the adjustment screw while using the leather wheel. It gets hot quickly and is so small it is hard to handle in my stubby fingers!
My “jig” will be a bolt attached to a connector with the same threads as the adjustment screw, which will go into the other end of the connector. Biggest issue is finding a 5mm, 0.5 thread bolt and connector. Lots of places have 5mm, 0.8 thread.
That's why you do it by hand. It's the Delrin that wears a hole, depression BUT...honeslty I'm not sure it matters, just seals better. The brass won't wear, the Ti IMHO is a gimmick and a certified beech to machine.
 
That's why you do it by hand. It's the Delrin that wears a hole, depression BUT...honeslty I'm not sure it matters, just seals better. The brass won't wear, the Ti IMHO is a gimmick and a certified beech to machine.
Sorry, I’m confused. I was aware the delrin deforms some but are you saying the brass adjustment screw is not the problem and causes the creep? Cuz I’ve been polishing the screw not the delrin. I’ll polish the delrin as soon as I hear back from you.
I agree about the Ti part but the PEEK plastic does have potential, chemistry-wise! This polymer is much more expensive (I think there is only one producer-in Houston). It has v high melt point and better physical properties to Delrin.
 
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Sorry, I’m confused. I was aware the delrin deforms some but are you saying the brass adjustment screw is not the problem and causes the creep? Cuz I’ve been polishing the screw not the delrin. I’ll polish the delrin as soon as I hear back from you.
I agree about the Ti part but the PEEK plastic does have potential, chemistry-wise! This polymer is much more expensive (I think there is only one producer-in Houston). It has v high melt point and better physical properties to Delrin.
You have to do both, both need a slight dome. I helped a guy with his M3, the delrin was concave, luckily I had some spares laying around, hey it's FX you need spare parts. I sharpen things, kitchen knives, scissors, Katanas....I thought I try the little reg part on my 12" strop, worked like a champ, the untreated side put a heck of a finish on it. In a previous life I made things smooth/flat/shiny or round and shiny. A simple figure eight, rotate it every so often. Today's pro tip, put the adjuster in upside down in the top of the body that holds it, makes it easier to hold. The brass pistons with the delrin are cool BUT I got a few where the delrin was out a bit too far, about 1mm or so too much needs to be .5mm or slightly less above the brass, I'd say .2mm or .010".
 
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Get yourself a loupe and check both. The delrin will be it 90% of the time, but the brass can also have defects from the factory etc.
Got one……30/60, just never looked at the Delrin on the piston before. Dumb me!!!
The brass looks great. Especially made sure the very tip, where the hole is, was a “flat” surface without scratches. I don’t get much creep, 3-4 bar but that sure makes first shot’s noisy and fast!
 
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You have to do both, both need a slight dome. I helped a guy with his M3, the delrin was concave, luckily I had some spares laying around, hey it's FX you need spare parts. I sharpen things, kitchen knives, scissors, Katanas....I thought I try the little reg part on my 12" strop, worked like a champ, the untreated side put a heck of a finish on it. In a previous life I made things smooth/flat/shiny or round and shiny. A simple figure eight, rotate it every so often. Today's pro tip, put the adjuster in upside down in the top of the body that holds it, makes it easier to hold. The brass pistons with the delrin are cool BUT I got a few where the delrin was out a bit too far, about 1mm or so too much needs to be .5mm or slightly less above the brass, I'd say .2mm or .010".
Thanks for the clarity!!! And the tips! You are a real benefit to the forum!!!
 
Sorry, I’m confused. I was aware the delrin deforms some but are you saying the brass adjustment screw is not the problem and causes the creep? Cuz I’ve been polishing the screw not the delrin. I’ll polish the delrin as soon as I hear back from you.
I agree about the Ti part but the PEEK plastic does have potential, chemistry-wise! This polymer is much more expensive (I think there is only one producer-in Houston). It has v high melt point and better physical properties to Delrin.
PEEK has been used for many years to make valve poppets in AGs, chiefly because it has very high compressive strength and therefore makes valves easier to knock open (with less hammer). It’s readily available on eBay if you want a stick. Since it has the same hardness as brass, it will need a harder material to mate with in the reg. I like to use it in the striking face of my hammers to remove the ping on impact. Just added a stub of it to this one:
IMG_0899.jpeg


And a poppet I made last week:

IMG_0893.jpeg
 
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He did it do Bhaur. I’d imagine there are pros and cons!
Yes there are a bit of cones for AMP regulator. It becomes difficult to make such piston with really square surface to avoid creep.

Now for last one and a half year, I make brass pistons with delrin inside the cavity.

I share my comments which I shared with Ernest yesterday in response to his question.



"My experience with peek poppet is great. It opens very quickly and if machined well, it seal even at 50 bars.

On the other hand since AMP regulator has dome like shape of regulator adjuster, I came back to delrin seat. But my delrin seat is also into a metal cavity just like you have made your peek piston. Keeping the delrin seat into the metal cavity does not let the delrin extrude under high pressure. Also delrin seals very well with the dome shape adjuster. Since we often re tune Impact for various projectiles, the delrin takes its shape much quicker being softer than peek.
But when peek piston works good it also does its job.

I am making and experimenting on these pistons for years and this is my conclusion."
 
Thanks for the clarity!!! And the tips! You are a real benefit to the forum!!!
If you ask questions here you find the tidbits, you also have to not be afraid to screw something up, hopefully not beyond repair. I've learned a lot from the more experienced people here and I'm also not afraid to try something, worse case, spend money to fix it. I'm one of the 'new kids' here, only really been into airguns for 3 years and only because I was forced into it. Splatting ground squirrels with a PB and a dog on the property didn't like it so had to get into airguns and down the rabbit hole I go.
 
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If you ask questions here you find the tidbits, you also have to not be afraid to screw something up, hopefully not beyond repair. I've learned a lot from the more experienced people here and I'm also not afraid to try something, worse case, spend money to fix it. I'm one of the 'new kids' here, only really been into airguns for 3 years and only because I was forced into it. Splatting ground squirrels with a PB and a dog on the property didn't like it so had to get into airguns and down the rabbit hole I go.
My journey is similar, about 3 years with my Maverick. Tried to do it with cheap, then really good break barrels but found these to be quite tough to shoot accurately. Hold, pellet choice, many variables. Enter the PCP era! Cheaper first (Avenger) then FX.
 
My journey is similar, about 3 years with my Maverick. Tried to do it with cheap, then really good break barrels but found these to be quite tough to shoot accurately. Hold, pellet choice, many variables. Enter the PCP era! Cheaper first (Avenger) then FX.
Well I started off with a break barrel, cheap, turned out the barrel was bent so I straightened it, have it shooting fairly well but not at the distance I needed, 50 to 125 yards, so, a Sapsan, that was better but had some issues, then a Maverick VP, the usual FX quality control issues, fixed it, then a pre destroyed Maverick that I turned into a .22 compact, let's call it a learning experience. I finally have my Mavericks working fine, my Sapsan is as good as it's going to get. Have a Raptor works well except for a darn leak I can't find, not fast so when shooting it, so it doesn't matter. Also have a Tequila Pistol, another learning curve, mostly my fault of being brain dead, it's pretty darn accurate at 25 yards, more accurate than I am. Oh and an OLD Daisy 717 that just shoots, need to fix the sights on it. Did a trigger job on it a long time ago, a sweet shooter.
 
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