Huben GK1 - leveraging the shroud đź‘Ť

weevil

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Dec 19, 2022
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Utah
Mentioned this in another thread but since it seems to be a reSOUNDing success, I figure it merits a thread, with the hope that others can follow on with a more professional approach and parts.

Background: The GK1 is a fabulous device as many of you know but it does make quite a bark. Oddly, Huben chose not to give it an active shroud and initially, not even a moderator option, which makes it PB pistol loud. I have found that Impulse Air mods work very well, first using IA1200 and then IA1350. Still, it’s substantially louder than my K1 rifles which benefit from full shroud, built in baffles and 2-section Huma Mod30s. The stock shroud on the GK1 is open at the base where it meets the air tube and the adapters that fix the shroud to the barrel do not have any capability to strip air back into the shroud. So, the full force of air from the shot is projected forward, into the moderator (or not). In the spirit of experimentation, I decided to “fix it” and make the shroud functional in terms of providing a reservoir to reduce pressure of the exiting air.

Procedure: This is relatively simple and not by any means conducted in a professional manner. It’s an experimental hack. The first step was to mod the NEAG moderator collar that I have as a spare after buying the nicer adapter from Zach at Ares. A basic stripping function was provided by drilling four holes (eventually 9/64in each) at an angle into the adapter so that they are exposed in front of the barrel to allow air to pass into channels indented in the exterior of the adapter. Basically a bunch of careful drilling and dremeling. I then cut 5 pieces of CF from a template and sanded them to press fit into the five (let’s call them apertures) in the base of the shroud. This took a couple hours of careful crafting. Thankfully, all 5 apertures are the same size but this step could be made much easier by having 3D printed plugs/inserts made that could be fitted from the inside. Anyway, I press fitted my pieces and then glassed them in from the inside. I then drilled 2 holes in the rear most sections at 7/64 to provide venting. I really should have taken more pics but I tend to get on a tear with these activities. Here is a pic of the shroud and adapter collar showing the mods:

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With the interior glassing, the shroud was deemed to be air tight and very solid so then it was just a matter of putting things back together. While the mod adapter collar is irreversibly modified, the shroud could be reverted by knocking out the pieces from the outside. The only other addition was a piece/plug of magic eraser foam (about 1 in long) fitted inside the shroud and around the barrel at the magazine end to disrupt a pressure wave.

Testing: Initial test involved dry firing with a sound meter 3ft away and at 45deg forward of the muzzle with no moderator. Having the unmodified Ares adapter, I could perform a comparison because the Ares adapter has no way to pass air into the shroud. An average of 10 shots with each adapter provided a difference of 4.7dB in favor of the active shroud. To put it into context, if you own a GK1, you’ll know that it is louder dry firing than it is with a projectile. I would say that the difference made by having the shroud active is about the same as dry vs. live firing.

This AM, I had a chance to do some real testing and configured the GK1 with my widescreen (grotesquely large) Holosun dot and IA1350. Shooting GTOs at 905fps/21fpe. Note that the GTOs (for reasons I don’t understand) are louder than lead pellets even at a lower power output. Anyway, here’s the rig and the “control”, Ares adapter:

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The same testing approach was used with the active mod collar (leveraging the shroud) and the control Ares collar. 10 shots with each taken from the same starting pressure (290bar) gave a 3.7dB average difference, again favoring the shroud. With the shroud in play, to the ear, there is a notable difference and I can say that the GK1 is now midway between its unshrouded state and my K1 rifle in terms of noise. There is no resonance from the shroud and the glassed CF inserts show no signs of movement or other deterioration.

Of course, another key test is to determine that the pistol still shoots accurately. For this I shot the GK1 with functional shroud into a duct seal target from supporting bags at 35y. I know from past experience that it makes <1/2in groups in this manner with GTOs. To be thorough, I wanted to make sure that it was accurate at both the top and bottom end pressures of my typical shot string, which has an ES<10. Therefore, I made 5 shots from 290bar to 270, then shot off target at a spinner then returned to the same testing target putting in another 5 shots from ~230bar down to 210. As usual, the accuracy was top notch and I can confidently state that the shroud has no negative effect:

3/4 inch sticker on the duct seal, previously damaged by a couple sighter shots on left that were removed (I’m a terrible cheapskate with stickers)

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Moving the sticker, you can see more clearly and yes, this is actually 10 pellets, mangled together!

IMG_0643.jpeg
 
I have the IA1200 as well as the cheapest Weihrauch silencer (for the HW100). The Weihrauch works much better, subjectively speaking. My ears ring with the IA1200 and the Weihrauch is much nicer, somewhere between a thud and a clank. This is on a .25 cal GK1, and the only thing I've done on the Weihrauch is widen the two baffles inside to 7.50mm. The IA1200 is shorter and nicer looking, of course.
 
They do have that metallic ring and at some point, it becomes a matter of taste. I also found that the Altaros mod (also long) works well. I’m keen to try some others with the shroud helping out. The IAs don’t quieten nearly as well my shrouded Pantheras and M3, compared to a Tanto. The IAs seem to work best with an unshrouded direct blast. So it is possible that the Tanto or a Huma30 will work better on a shrouded GK1. I’ll test them this weekend. No doubt though that the shroud helps and it might be even more effective at higher power.
 
Bernie - at this point, I am not keen to poke it again for fear of upsetting it because it is shooting so well. It really is just a matter of sealing those openings in the shroud and drilling/dremeling passages in the adapter to allow air to pass back. Regarding the former, making some carbon plates was simply the easiest option for me but there are other ways to do it. I was more concerned about drilling the adapter, because it was done manually with a hand drill, but it’s not too tricky. It would be great if someone could machine an appropriate adapter. The upshot is that this mod really quietens things down. Here’s a little clip shooting a spinner at 45y. It’s no louder than opening a can of soda and obviously, the sound you hear is inside a room!
 
That adaptor is a tricky bit of machine work and the design needs to change because of that. Let me explain. The adapter must bottom on the barrel face to maintain barrel alignment. (This compensates for barrel to adaptor loose thread clearances) Yet it must also clamp the shroud to the receiver. It must also extend beyond the shroud so that the face can be used as a register for the rear face of the moderator, also to maintain barrel to moderator bore alignment. The first two functions conflict with each other. When tightening the adaptor with the 7mm hex wrench, it is almost impossible to clamp to both the barrel face and the shroud at the same time. It will be either one or the other, but not both.. Unfortunately the default is clamping to the shroud and the shroud surface is not square to the bore. This creates a cant issue at the adapter face for the shroud. Compounding this is the fact that the adaptor does not protrude beyond the end of the shroud, which means that the moderator is now also seating against the shroud, not the barrel.

A better design must be two different parts, one that maintains barrel alignment through to the moderator and another to clamp the shroud. One part cannot do both, let alone weevil's requirement to bleed air into the shroud.. This function can also be easily handled with a two piece design.
 
That adaptor is a tricky bit of machine work and the design needs to change because of that. Let me explain. The adapter must bottom on the barrel face to maintain barrel alignment. (This compensates for barrel to adaptor loose thread clearances) Yet it must also clamp the shroud to the receiver. It must also extend beyond the shroud so that the face can be used as a register for the rear face of the moderator, also to maintain barrel to moderator bore alignment. The first two functions conflict with each other. When tightening the adaptor with the 7mm hex wrench, it is almost impossible to clamp to both the barrel face and the shroud at the same time. It will be either one or the other, but not both.. Unfortunately the default is clamping to the shroud and the shroud surface is not square to the bore. This creates a cant issue at the adapter face for the shroud. Compounding this is the fact that the adaptor does not protrude beyond the end of the shroud, which means that the moderator is now also seating against the shroud, not the barrel.

A better design must be two different parts, one that maintains barrel alignment through to the moderator and another to clamp the shroud. One part cannot do both, let alone weevil's requirement to bleed air into the shroud.. This function can also be easily handled with a two piece design.
I cannot complain about the accuracy. Hit my 1in spinner 6/6 at 45y in a snowstorm just now. Our powdery Utah snow is a great assistant in reading the wind and I always do better in biathlon when it’s snowing!

My adapter came from NEAG and unlike the one from Zach, it doesn’t have the 7mm hex cutout and is tightened via holes in the UNF threading. I hope that you can get your alignment issues addressed.

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I cannot complain about the accuracy. Hit my 1in spinner 6/6 at 45y in a snowstorm just now. Our powdery Utah snow is a great assistant in reading the wind and I always do better in biathlon when it’s snowing!

My adapter came from NEAG and unlike the one from Zach, it doesn’t have the 7mm hex cutout and is tightened via holes in the UNF threading. I hope that you can get your alignment issues addressed.

View attachment 423018
I sent this complaint and my information directly to Huben air guns in Spain. I expect an answer sometime this week. I will keep everyone here informed. Otherwise if no joy, I see myself making one or two of my own two piece design.
 
This a bit of a follow-up to my last entry here. I sent 2 test gauges, a new moderator and an offset spacer to the Huben dealer in Spain via DHL. It arrived and for some reason was not delivered. It sat at the a DHL drop off point waiting for pick up that never occurred. It was then sent back to me. Emails were exchanged and a UPS label was delivered to me by Wolftiek this morning. The package is again on its way back to Barcelona.
 
Weevil, thank you for your clever active shroud idea.
I took another path in porting the barrel adapter. To connect the roughly 4mm gap between the barrel's muzzle and the end of the adapter's threaded bore, I used a Dremmel and small carbide bit to carve 3 channels into the adapter's inside threads, which connects that gap to the inside of the barrel shroud. It achieves a result similar to yours, just from the inside.
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I thought about cutting 4 channels and may try that on another adapter.
To dampen resonance, I wrapped adhesive felt around the front & rear of the barrel.
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Since the bottom of the shroud actually contacts most of the air tank, I did not seal up its bottom openings. During shooting, there is some air that vents past the shroud/tank union.
Now the Shadow suppressor is about as quiet as the Weihrauch, prior to porting the adapter. And, it's still shooting the same tight groups as before.
20241015_133237.jpg

Thanks again weevil, for your innovation.
 
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Just for the sake of those hesitant to take power tools to their GKs (like me); I've found the little Huma Mini 30 (mm outside diameter) moderator using just the 40mm long section (without the two other 20mm long sections) to be very effective at taming the muzzle bark, while extending the overall length of the pistol only about 1.5".

GK Gilmore.jpg


And of course the Mini 30 can be lengthened another 20-40mm by screwing on the other included 20mm sections for additional bark moderation (as I also use it on my .177 Brocock Wolverine rifle).

.
 
Great experiment. I have a 3d printer, lathe and mill, I think I can machine and adapter to do the same thing and print the plugs. Another way would be to replace the shroud with a CF or aluminum tube with an integrated moderator. If using a red dot sight a larger diameter offset shroud can be used. Not saying it would look nicer, but it would be quieter.

I have a .177 that should be delivered tomorrow. I'm going to print up some moderators designs from a expert on this forum. If it backyard friendly then I may stop, else I will experiment more.
 
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Great experiment. I have a 3d printer, lathe and mill, I think I can machine and adapter to do the same thing and print the plugs. Another way would be to replace the shroud with a CF or aluminum tube with an integrated moderator. If using a red dot sight a larger diameter offset shroud can be used. Not saying it would look nicer, but it would be quieter.

I have a .177 that should be delivered tomorrow. I'm going to print up some moderators designs from an expert on this forum. If it backyard friendly then I may stop, else I will experiment more.
Did you decide to print/machine anything?
 
Just for the sake of those hesitant to take power tools to their GKs (like me); I've found the little Huma Mini 30 (mm outside diameter) moderator using just the 40mm long section (without the two other 20mm long sections) to be very effective at taming the muzzle bark, while extending the overall length of the pistol only about 1.5".

View attachment 504799

And of course the Mini 30 can be lengthened another 20-40mm by screwing on the other included 20mm sections for additional bark moderation (as I also use it on my .177 Brocock Wolverine rifle).

.
And it’s a SHOOTER!
 
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