The Grease cup on the GX CS4 is crap.......

It's not designed to take grease continually. It will of course if the gasket is removed and then that excess grease needs to be removed if it happens. My compressors gasket decided to slip into the cup and allow all the grease to be sucked down onto the crank. I contacted their customer service and was told to remove that excess grease out of there and make sure not to allow it to happen again or it can cause problems.
I had some thin rubber so I used the grease cup as a template and made my own with a tiny hole in it just like the factory one (too bad these aren't available)
The problem is the gasket was so ripped that it wouldn't stop the grease from entering when the pump is running.
How it's supposed to work is there is always some suction happening as the machine runs but the grease is supposed to be limited by that faulty gasket. After every 4 hour cycle, you are supposed to turn the screw one revolution to put some pressure onto the gasket and that tiny hole allowing a small amount of that grease to have enough pressure to make it through the tiny hole.
I made a new limiter the same as you did but still had problems with it slipping into the grease cup. I found that a Dash #021 Buna 70 X-Ring fits the bottom of the grease cup perfectly so I used o-ring glue to attach the x ring to the top of the 1/32" thick buna 40 disk that i made. This has fixed the problem for me.
 
I made a new limiter the same as you did but still had problems with it slipping into the grease cup. I found that a Dash #021 Buna 70 X-Ring fits the bottom of the grease cup perfectly so I used o-ring glue to attach the x ring to the top of the 1/32" thick buna 40 disk that i made. This has fixed the problem for me.
That is a great idea. You used the o-ring as sort of a frame or stabilizer for the rubber disc to help keep it from folding up and getting twisted inside the cup. Could you use a regular round o-ring instead of the X ?
Thx
Ray
 
I would like to know what glue he used.
O-ring glue = super glue
That is a great idea. You used the o-ring as sort of a frame or stabilizer for the rubber disc to help keep it from folding up and getting twisted inside the cup. Could you use a regular round o-ring instead of the X ?
Thx
Ray
Due to the clearance between the cup and the body you would have to have an o-ring with a very small cross section which would make it hard to work with and with a larger cross section it would tend to roll to the inside of the cup (creating the same problem as the original limiter has). With the x-ring it has a valley in the center that the end of the grease cup seats into which keeps the ring from rolling. Not saying it couldn't be done, I just found the x-ring easier to work with.
 
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I am still not sure what grease is actually recommended by the manufacturer as the manufacturer hasn't ever put out a user manual or actual specs that can be downloaded by customers. (ARG!)

However, I did buy the Haynes silicone grease recommended at blog.roninsgrips.com.

When I checked my grease pot at less than 1 hour of compressor usage (actual compressor usage, not just when the cooling fan was running and compressor was off) the "flow limiter was all wadded up and the grease pot was only about 1/4 full at the top of the plunger.

I didn't have any replacement grease at the time, so I simply replaced the "flow limiter" (flimsy plastic disc) turned the knob until it felt pressure against it and stopped.

After about another hour of usage I pulled the plunger assembly and checked again. The flimsy plastic "flow limiter" was all wadded up again.

After seeing the aluminum flow limiting disc made by another AGN member, I decided to make my own out of stiffer plastic. I used the plastic lid from a large can of Walmart Lemonade mix. Using the bottom of the plunger assembly as a guide, I cut a disc from this plastic and punched a small hole (much smaller than the aluminum disc aforementioned) and placed that in the bottom of the grease well. Then I filled the grease plunger assembly with the Hayne grease and tightened it down into the grease pot.

Once it was securely tightened, I turned the knob clockwise until I felt some pressure and turned it one more full turn while the compressor was running without load.

I noticed NO difference in the sound of the compressor. Removed the plunger assembly and disc to check if there was grease flow past the new plastic flow limiter and found that there was. So I replaced the new plastic disc and plunger assembly and stopped worrying.

All my best!

Kerry
 
I am still not sure what grease is actually recommended by the manufacturer as the manufacturer hasn't ever put out a user manual or actual specs that can be downloaded by customers. (ARG!)

However, I did buy the Haynes silicone grease recommended at blog.roninsgrips.com.

When I checked my grease pot at less than 1 hour of compressor usage (actual compressor usage, not just when the cooling fan was running and compressor was off) the "flow limiter was all wadded up and the grease pot was only about 1/4 full at the top of the plunger.

I didn't have any replacement grease at the time, so I simply replaced the "flow limiter" (flimsy plastic disc) turned the knob until it felt pressure against it and stopped.

After about another hour of usage I pulled the plunger assembly and checked again. The flimsy plastic "flow limiter" was all wadded up again.

After seeing the aluminum flow limiting disc made by another AGN member, I decided to make my own out of stiffer plastic. I used the plastic lid from a large can of Walmart Lemonade mix. Using the bottom of the plunger assembly as a guide, I cut a disc from this plastic and punched a small hole (much smaller than the aluminum disc aforementioned) and placed that in the bottom of the grease well. Then I filled the grease plunger assembly with the Hayne grease and tightened it down into the grease pot.

Once it was securely tightened, I turned the knob clockwise until I felt some pressure and turned it one more full turn while the compressor was running without load.

I noticed NO difference in the sound of the compressor. Removed the plunger assembly and disc to check if there was grease flow past the new plastic flow limiter and found that there was. So I replaced the new plastic disc and plunger assembly and stopped worrying.

All my best!

Kerry
Glad this worked for you. I had wondered if a thin plastic piece would work like the other posters aluminum disc. I was thinking either plastic from a milk jug or maybe the top off a pringles chip can. How thick was your plastic and how big of a hole did you put in the center?
Thx
Ray
 
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Glad this worked for you. I had wondered if a thin plastic piece would work like the other posters aluminum disc. I was thinking either plastic from a milk jug or maybe the top off a pringles chip can. How thick was your plastic and how big of a hole did you put in the center?
Thx
Ray
I first thought about using an old tire inner tube to make it, but I didn't have any available.

BTW, what I think is happening with the original flimsy "flow limiter" plastic disc is that it is getting folded up by the bottom of the plunger assembly as it tightens down at the bottom of the grease pot.

Anyway, I don't know the exact thickness of the plastic lid I used, but I think the lid from a Pringles can would be pretty close to what I used and work just fine.

Just make sure to MARK the dimensions using the threaded end of the plunger assemble and don't try to cut around it as I found that the metal (aluminum?) can easily be shaved when using an X-Acto knife. Ended up using scissors for the cut. It doesn't have to be ultra precise, but the close the better... I guess. Also used the same plastic lid to make a small "spatula" to force the grease into the plunger assembly, along with tapping it on a hard surface to seat the grease.

All my best!

Kerry
 
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My method is to empty the grease cup completely. Then with the grease cup reinstalled, screw the feed screw all the way clockwise so that it is completely extended. At this point I back it off one full turn, remove the grease cup from the compressor and fill that tiny space that’s now exposed in the cup to level. I then reinstall the grease cup and with the pump running tighten the feed one full turn.

This results in it feeding one turn worth of grease but no more.
 
I am still not sure what grease is actually recommended by the manufacturer as the manufacturer hasn't ever put out a user manual or actual specs that can be downloaded by customers. (ARG!)

However, I did buy the Haynes silicone grease recommended at blog.roninsgrips.com.

When I checked my grease pot at less than 1 hour of compressor usage (actual compressor usage, not just when the cooling fan was running and compressor was off) the "flow limiter was all wadded up and the grease pot was only about 1/4 full at the top of the plunger.

I didn't have any replacement grease at the time, so I simply replaced the "flow limiter" (flimsy plastic disc) turned the knob until it felt pressure against it and stopped.

After about another hour of usage I pulled the plunger assembly and checked again. The flimsy plastic "flow limiter" was all wadded up again.

After seeing the aluminum flow limiting disc made by another AGN member, I decided to make my own out of stiffer plastic. I used the plastic lid from a large can of Walmart Lemonade mix. Using the bottom of the plunger assembly as a guide, I cut a disc from this plastic and punched a small hole (much smaller than the aluminum disc aforementioned) and placed that in the bottom of the grease well. Then I filled the grease plunger assembly with the Hayne grease and tightened it down into the grease pot.

Once it was securely tightened, I turned the knob clockwise until I felt some pressure and turned it one more full turn while the compressor was running without load.

I noticed NO difference in the sound of the compressor. Removed the plunger assembly and disc to check if there was grease flow past the new plastic flow limiter and found that there was. So I replaced the new plastic disc and plunger assembly and stopped worrying.

All my best!

Kerry
I am still not sure what grease is actually recommended by the manufacturer as the manufacturer hasn't ever put out a user manual or actual specs that can be downloaded by customers. (ARG!)

However, I did buy the Haynes silicone grease recommended at blog.roninsgrips.com.

When I checked my grease pot at less than 1 hour of compressor usage (actual compressor usage, not just when the cooling fan was running and compressor was off) the "flow limiter was all wadded up and the grease pot was only about 1/4 full at the top of the plunger.

I didn't have any replacement grease at the time, so I simply replaced the "flow limiter" (flimsy plastic disc) turned the knob until it felt pressure against it and stopped.

After about another hour of usage I pulled the plunger assembly and checked again. The flimsy plastic "flow limiter" was all wadded up again.

After seeing the aluminum flow limiting disc made by another AGN member, I decided to make my own out of stiffer plastic. I used the plastic lid from a large can of Walmart Lemonade mix. Using the bottom of the plunger assembly as a guide, I cut a disc from this plastic and punched a small hole (much smaller than the aluminum disc aforementioned) and placed that in the bottom of the grease well. Then I filled the grease plunger assembly with the Hayne grease and tightened it down into the grease pot.

Once it was securely tightened, I turned the knob clockwise until I felt some pressure and turned it one more full turn while the compressor was running without load.

I noticed NO difference in the sound of the compressor. Removed the plunger assembly and disc to check if there was grease flow past the new plastic flow limiter and found that there was. So I replaced the new plastic disc and plunger assembly and stopped worrying.

All my best!

Kerry
This is the type Omega recommends. The pumps are the same as the GX.

IMG_1655.png
 
I've got 8 hrs on my new CS 4 compressor now....when I got up to 4 hours I turned the grease knob a full turn according to the instructions, I didn't notice any difference in the sound or anything. Today when I hit 8 hrs. I tried to turn it another full turn and it would not make but a half turn and stopped. I removed the grease cup assembly and the rubber washer in the bottom and cleaned out all the grease.....I don't think this factory grease cup actually works as the rubber washer was deformed and blocking the small hole in the bottom where the grease is supposed to go. I got a plastic syringe and put some of the grease in the syringe and installed the dead head on the fill line and turned the compressor on... while the compressor was running I injected some grease in the hole and could hear a difference in the sound of the pump when I shot the grease in. The thing is, GX does not say anywhere how much grease this compressor is supposed to use every four hrs. of use. I gave it a few cc's until I could hear a difference in the sound, as doing it that way I know for certain it got some grease in it as I don't want to rely on that janky grease cup set up as I don't think it works as they say it does....
Has anyone else that uses one of these hear a difference in the pump when turning that grease knob....????
Too much grease causes it to bog down. I called GX place in Texas, he said to clean out grease dont add any more, and let run for 4 hours to burn off the excess gresse. After a while. Compressor sounded normal not slowed down. They dont need much grease he said. Hope this helps!
 
It's not designed to take grease continually. It will of course if the gasket is removed and then that excess grease needs to be removed if it happens. My compressors gasket decided to slip into the cup and allow all the grease to be sucked down onto the crank. I contacted their customer service and was told to remove that excess grease out of there and make sure not to allow it to happen again or it can cause problems.
I had some thin rubber so I used the grease cup as a template and made my own with a tiny hole in it just like the factory one (too bad these aren't available)
The problem is the gasket was so ripped that it wouldn't stop the grease from entering when the pump is running.
How it's supposed to work is there is always some suction happening as the machine runs but the grease is supposed to be limited by that faulty gasket. After every 4 hour cycle, you are supposed to turn the screw one revolution to put some pressure onto the gasket and that tiny hole allowing a small amount of that grease to have enough pressure to make it through the tiny hole.
how do I know if I have turned the grease knob too much or too soon. I think I may ahve put too much grease in. how do I remove excess?
 
how do I know if I have turned the grease knob too much or too soon. I think I may ahve put too much grease in. how do I remove excess?
It’s been about a year since this happened to me, so my memory isn’t perfect, but my compressor started to sound different, then I had a lower bearing on the crankshaft start squealing so I disassembled the unit and cleaned it out. I remember that getting at the lower bearings wasn’t too tough. There’s a removable port on the side of the compressor to access them and the noisy bearing was dry as a bone. Those particular bearings are not lubricated by the grease pot and do not require high temperature grease, food grade grease.

Getting into the compressor pistons and cylinders is tougher. They’re set up like Russian nesting dolls and you have to remove the cooling system and a few wires to get in there. It’s not too tough though. I’d say it’s about the same level of difficulty as working on a chainsaw or a small engine and it’s much cleaner. You’ve got to have a few basic tools and a little mechanical aptitude, but it’s something that most people would be capable of.
 
I think I’ve been reading about this greasing issue on every brand that uses the grease cup for four or five years.
A couple years ago I had an Omega Air Charger. It had the typical grease cup that’s in hundreds of posts on AGN.
If I still had it I would calculate the displacement of the recommended grease shot and then at the prescribed interval I would use a hypodermic with graduations and squirt it into the grease hole. Problems over and assured grease at the proper time and proper volume is being applied.
 
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I think someone in a previous post calculated the amount of Grease injected per turn of the knob. Get the area of the circle of the plunger and multiply by the thread pitch. That said it is not a great system for even distribution of the grease. I fail to see how suction of Grease into the large piston is going to evenly distribute the grease to every piston in the fourth stage compressor. It's a crap shoot!
 
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I think someone in a previous post calculated the amount of Grease injected per turn of the knob. Get the area of the circle of the plunger and multiply by the thread pitch. That said it is not a great system for even distribution of the grease. I fail to see how suction of Grease into the large piston is going to evenly distribute the grease to every piston in the fourth stage compressor. It's a crap shoot!
But that’s the design, and believe it or not it works… most of the time.
 
I think someone in a previous post calculated the amount of Grease injected per turn of the knob. Get the area of the circle of the plunger and multiply by the thread pitch. That said it is not a great system for even distribution of the grease. I fail to see how suction of Grease into the large piston is going to evenly distribute the grease to every piston in the fourth stage compressor. It's a crap shoot!
You don't even have to do that. Just remove the entire thing, (it unscrews), set the piston flush with the end of the cylinder and then back it off 1.5 turns and fill the empty space with grease.