RWS Did I damage my gun.

Here's that breech chock idea.

Just quick throw together for example sake ..lol

Breech wide open but can't close unless you remove the wood clock block .

Hateful McNasty said:

A fitted block of wood that fit between the tube and breech block when opened (90°). To just chock and prevent that happening would work good ..

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That is exactly how I do it on the springer. I use a much thinner wedge but the same idea.

For the 97 I've got a 1" round piece of hardwood about 1.5" long with a taper at one end. You stuff it in there one way to clean it. Turn it around the other way to replace the breech seal. I stuff it under the cocking lever to keep the pressure off the breech seal in storage.

It's a far out and groovy airgun accessory I made from a tornillo mesquite limb. But a piece of 3/4" schedule 40 pvc would work dandy too.

Still comes down to don't let it slip out of your hand decocking .. after a good cleaning that slick oiled gun can slip ..

I think just load a pellet and fire it after a cleaning to blow out the barrel of left over residue in it .. first shot after cleaning tends to be just off the mark sometimes anyway.

Hateful McNasty said:

Still comes down to don't let it slip out of your hand decocking .. after a good cleaning that slick oiled gun can slip ..

I think just load a pellet and fire it after a cleaning to blow out the barrel of left over residue in it .. first shot after cleaning tends to be just off the mark sometimes anyway.

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I don't cock them at all. But yeah, if you have them back very far there's going to be tension.

I suppose I have "de-cocked" a rifle but I can't remember ever doing it. If I cock it I shoot it.

I did have a Hatsan that snapped up cocking it. Had one of those composite barrels with a liner in it. It shot way high but I pulled down hard on the barrel and it fixed it. It shoots straight to this day. It didn't require much pressure at all.

None of my hatsans can just be decocked . It's dry fire or shoot a pellet.

Hateful McNasty said:

None of my hatsans can just be decocked . It's dry fire or shoot a pellet.

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I'm sorry I mentioned the Hatsan. I forgot that it affected you.

Whenever the brand is mentioned we both get a bit emotional. We should avoid any discussion of them whenever we can. It's a trigger we can refuse to pull.

Bedrock Bob said:

I'm sorry I mentioned the Hatsan. I forgot that it affected you.

Whenever the brand is mentioned we both get a bit emotional. We should avoid any discussion of them whenever we can. It's a trigger we can refuse to pull.

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Look up at GTA forums at nced's little bender . Pretty simple to make and does the job ..

One in here he posted of

The old trap shooters with a plain barrel gun would just go looking for a tree with a healthy crotch low enough to the ground. Insert barrel in to the crotch and push or pull to bend the barrel. Most trap shooters prefer their pattern be 70-100 percent high.

Here's another

Ricklin said:

The old trap shooters with a plain barrel gun would just go looking for a tree with a healthy crotch low enough to the ground. Insert barrel in to the crotch and push or pull to bend the barrel. Most trap shooters prefer their pattern be 70-100 percent high.

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Yaaaa buddy . I bent one or two barrels using a tree .. but that was in anger and disgust of the guns performance

Next best thing to the tree I guess

Here is a bending jig for a Diana 34.



Just clamp it all in a vice and go slow. It beats the he!! out of a forked tree or a trailer hitch.

Yeah, sticking the barrel into the hitch receiver and spanking it on the side of the rifle stock will be a sure way to read another new thread on "How do I repair a broken stock"? HaHaHa

I shall note that shotguns are not exactly precision weapons, and shotgun barrels tend to be pretty thin and relatively soft. If I were to lose my grip on a 50 dollar Chinese springer I'd likely be looking for a tree with a handy fork in it. A 500 dollar gun...not so much.

JDR said:

So you put the pressure in the middle of the barrel with it supported on both ends rather than clamp the receiver side and bend the top of the barrel.

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I put a fulcrum poit at the pivot block. And put the jig on the other side.

Search for "barrel bending" and you'll get details. I've posted my trials and tribulations as well as several others. I'd link to my post but im not sure how. Use the search function.

Good luck!

JDR said:

So you put the pressure in the middle of the barrel with it supported on both ends rather than clamp the receiver side and bend the top of the barrel.

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That all depends are where it is bent? Without having your rifle in my possession or you supplying detailed pictures then it is going to be hard to help you?

My guess your barrel is bent at the block? Here is a link to help you when a barrel is slammed shut........

i think WoodWelder is right it is bent at the block
so you need to send it out and hope or take the barrel off and do some measuring and the breech block is all you have for a flat place to work from
now i have a 350 so i can measure whatever you need to compare
the bending is one thing the amount is a fact that you need to correct this is another
but after saying that how the hell are you going to be able to hold the breech block and bend it down to it's correct position, bend it sideways
big vice protected jaws and a lot of side force
the vice could not move and use a string boob line as a stopping point
will it work maybe but you are in trouble
i checked both Knibbs and Chambers, Chambers list them no stock over a 100 buck and with shipping i would guess somewhere above 150 +
Waffencenter Gotha could get one but the price would take the fun out of it
know what Mike Ellingsworth has done over the years he might be someone to turn to he has a You Tube channel MR.Steppingstone
good luck if you need some measurement message me
Mike