Scope leveler...

Here's a step-by-step that I wrote up a few weeks ago.

The number of steps will initially make it seem more complicated than it actually is, but don't hesitate to ask questions if something isn't quite clear.
Your instructions are clear and this will align the reticle with the muzzle. But does this ensure that the scope tube is also aligned with the bore? If the bore is angled slightly differently from the scope tube, won't shots at various distances shift left-right of the vertical reticle? Is there a way to check and fix any bore-scope tube misalignment without shooting?
 
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Your instructions are clear and this will align the reticle with the muzzle. But does this ensure that the scope tube is also aligned with the bore? If the bore is angled slightly differently from the scope tube, won't shots at various distances shift left-right of the vertical reticle?
No, but the scope tube does not need to be precisely aligned with the bore. The erector tube does, since it is the thing we are looking through to aim.

In other words, if we didn't have a floating erector tube inside the scope body, and the ability to manipulate it via the turrets, we would need to be concerned with precisely aligning the scope tube with the bore.
 
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Hi all,
I would like to know your thoughts on this type of scope levelers...
Is it worth buying them?

Local shop near me uses those to install all scopes.
 
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IMO, if the scope isn't true... tube to reticle to turrets... you're screwed any way you go. Sure you might get the reticle plumb, but if it's not true to the turrets the minute you dial you introduce error. At that point you've only got whatever holdover you can see at a particular zoom level.

Spend more money and get a better scope.
 
Perhaps the "only" advantage of this method compared to other, let's say, more traditional methods (i.e. the use of plumb line, bubble level, mirror method, etc.) is the time savings.
It saves time in that it makes the bottom of your scope line up to the top of the rail, but as mentioned, neither of those is guaranteed to be level. But if both aren’t level… did you save time?

That is why people do the mirror method and such.
 
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I used one of those tools to put a scope back after checking some shorter rings a few minutes ago. I don't think there is a perfect method. Most, including the mirror, require the gun to be level. How accurate is your level? Setting the flat bottom of the scope turret area parallel to the picatinny rail depends on the gun and scope machining and possibly assembly. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check with another method but I suspect machining is more accurate than most levels. It is certainly a quick and easy method to at least get close.
 
It saves time in that it makes the bottom of your scope line up to the top of the rail, but as mentioned, neither of those is guaranteed to be level. But if both aren’t level… did you save time?

That is why people do the mirror method and such.
Maybe... But verify your results with the "tall target test"... these fudlore methods can be accurate... But doesn't prove they will be...
 
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No, but the scope tube does not need to be precisely aligned with the bore. The erector tube does, since it is the thing we are looking through to aim.

In other words, if we didn't have a floating erector tube inside the scope body, and the ability to manipulate it via the turrets, we would need to be concerned with precisely aligning the scope tube with the bore.
OK. But having the muzzle line up with the scope bell at a fixed distance (in the mirror) doesn't ensure that the erector tube is parallel to the bore, does it? Don't you still need to shoot at 2 (or more) distances to see if there is any x-axis shift with distance? If there is, should you shim the scope CW or CCW to the bore until the x-axis swing goes away?
 
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The easiest way is to shoot your apex which is usually around 25-36 yards....then shoot as close as your scope will allow. Let's say that's 10y. Zero the gun at the apex, then shoot on a vertical line at 10y. If you land on the vertical line at 10y...you're good. If you land to the right , then you will have to twist your scope in the rings to the left some and repeat your test.

Mike
Thanks for such useful information.
 
RScott
vertical plane,,, verticle reticle, alignment of gun bore with verticle reticle,,, THAT IS THE KEY,,, that is all there is,,, period
alignment in the same plane,,,, but not parallel
we are intersecting a verticle line to a horizontal bore hole

as to distance, we use 20 MOA rails or dial or just hold under /over,,, that depends on shooting distances or your usage
 
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The easiest way is to shoot your apex which is usually around 25-36 yards....then shoot as close as your scope will allow. Let's say that's 10y. Zero the gun at the apex, then shoot on a vertical line at 10y. If you land on the vertical line at 10y...you're good. If you land to the right , then you will have to twist your scope in the rings to the left some and repeat your test.

Mike
@thomasair so to be sure, you mean in the example above to rotate the scope CCW? as you sit behind the scope which would place the lower vertical reticle on the POI?
 
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OK. But having the muzzle line up with the scope bell at a fixed distance (in the mirror) doesn't ensure that the erector tube is parallel to the bore, does it? Don't you still need to shoot at 2 (or more) distances to see if there is any x-axis shift with distance? If there is, should you shim the scope CW or CCW to the bore until the x-axis swing goes away?
shim? perhaps rotate the vertical retical ccw or cw to bring the poi in agreement with poa ? I was just thinking about this as @thomasair mentioned it earlier in the thread.
 
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@thomasair so to be sure, you mean in the example above to rotate the scope CCW? as you sit behind the scope which would place the lower vertical reticle on the POI?
Yes...ccw from behind. The reason this method is better is because the distance doesn't matter....it's the amount of holdover or clicks away from zero that matter. Super short distances require a lot of holdover or clicks. Super short distances also have very little wind drift that could mess up your results.
 
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