Snowpeak Pinty Bullpup

WILL74, I also had to fight with my P15 back then. After I recrowned the barrel & added a Huma reg the clouds broke up & the sun shined in! It has now been my tree rat getter for years. I probably should have given the factory reg more time to break in but being new to PCP's I just thought it was a defective reg? I also bought a .177 Bullshark last spring that is very similar & made by Snowpeak & shoots lights out.
I hear You.
I sent the barrel (.25 cal) back to Krale because I basically couldn't hit a wall from 20 yards. They switched it to another barrel which they claimed to produce coin sized groups. They did not mention the distance though. I believe it was 5 yards.

Then I was bit by the power craze and really started pulling stuff apart.
I also bought the Huma reg which is fantastic as always. I'm not sure if there was anything wrong with the original either.
I had a machinist make a plenum which helped a lot. He charged me 120 euros for it even when I had given him all the dimensions on paper. I think it was a bit steep but what can you do...

I enlarged the transfer port substancially and modified the valving system as much as I dare. I changed the valve return spring to a much lighter one and bought stiffer high quality hammer springs. I also got a good deal on a FX gen 1 Smooth Twist 600mm barrel and I machined the outer dimensions to match. The barrel o-ring groove only cost me 20 euros.

I got good accuracy and power. I believe the reg was set around 140 to 150bar at most. The longer barrel helps. With JSB Heavies it produced 58fpe.

Now I'm in the process of converting it to shoot slugs, probably from the original barrel. I already removed the choke area. I probably need a larger plenum to get required speed out of that 500mm barrel.
It's funny that right after I had my plenum made, Huma sells plenums for dimes. Maybe I'll try to install two in a row if they sell them individually.

While we're at it, the original barrel on mine is like Vulcan 3. It needs something like.253 or .254.
Anything smaller than that will fall through.

It's a useful platform to get to know pcp technology. I have stripped almost every thread on it and I have yelled and cried. I think the trigger is very tuneable.
I'm very satisfied with the over travel stop I made on mine.
 
Looks like you have a nice little powerhouse on your hands. Just wondering what your power restrictions are in Finland? Do you need a special licence?
Well we're lucky that way. Restrictions took place around 2017 I guess, and they listened to Finnish Air Rifle (hard core) enthusiasts.

There's only one limiting factor and it's caliber specific.
.25 cal is the largest without any license. Anything larger than that requires a type of firearms license wich I cannot have anymore. Ever.
So there's absolutely no power limit and I believe it's not that common practice, not in Europe anyway.

As a matter of fact, them hard core enthusiasts speculated that it would be allowed to have a .257
It's clearly stated that the smallest part of the barrel (rifling?) must not exceed 6,35mm (.25), but I have no idea if anyone has done it. Now there would be abundant power!
 
If only I could have one for that price.
There's a company, Milidonis.gr, supposedly in Greece, selling P15 and other Artemis spare parts ridiculously cheap. That would work for us europeans I guess.
I would get .177 pellet probe and probe collar to try and install on a .22 or .25 version along with a suitable.177 barrel. Then there's magazines...

I noticed the valve is caliber specific so there could be plenty of power to be had.
Enough for them knockout 10.3's to pop.
 
I was in the basement working on a tune for my Pinty Bullpup. Stock it was shooting the 14.3 crossmans at 910 fps. To hot for me so I turned the reg down a little more then a 1/4 turn & clipped 2 coils off the hammer spring. Much better now. Anyone with a Pinty rifle,can you put a light on your manometer & see if it glows? They must all have luminescent paint on them. Mine glows a nice bright green. Not sure I need that feature but someone might.
 
I was in the basement working on a tune for my Pinty Bullpup. Stock it was shooting the 14.3 crossmans at 910 fps. To hot for me so I turned the reg down a little more then a 1/4 turn & clipped 2 coils off the hammer spring. Much better now. Anyone with a Pinty rifle,can you put a light on your manometer & see if it glows? They must all have luminescent paint on them. Mine glows a nice bright green. Not sure I need that feature but someone might.
Specs show regulators set @ 2600psi - 179.2bar and manometer luminate
Did you have to disassemble to adj. the reg ?
I believe one Spanish video stated it can be adj. by removing the manometer ?
 
You can get at the reg by either end of the cylinder. To degass there is a small set screw at the very end of the cylinder. Just break it free & give it a few minutes to air out. You have to put a pipe or even a screwdriver shaft in the fill port hole & unscrew the whole assembly. You then need a ft long extension & socket & same length screwdriver. I remove the air tube so I can have the reg & mark it in case I want to return to factory settings. It's very easy after you do it once. Nothing on Spa guns is ever loctited so easy peasy. Screw on reg goes cw to decrease & ccw to increase.
 
anyone receive their bullpup yet i am eager to hear about it?
I received mine on Thursday. Didn’t get a chance to throw a scope on it and zero til Saturday. Put a 4x14x40 FFP Primary Arms scope with UTG 30 mm high rings on. I’ve got a Snowpeak p-15 and like the p-15 this bull pup has a butt ton of MOA in the pic rail. I ran out of elevation adjustment and am hitting 4 MOA high at 50 yards. That tells me there is probably close to 40 MOA in this particular rail. Maybe this is normal- maybe I just got a bad apple. Would probably be “zeroed” at about 85 yards the way it sits right now even with shims in the front ring. Not a deal breaker-I got a fix for that.
Pellets and accuracy:
Only tried JSB 18’s and Norma 17.6 so far. Accuracy isn’t stellar Compared to other rifles I have but on par with the P15 at about 1 1/4” @ 50 yards. Haven’t put a chronograph on it yet, but I would say it’s pushing the JSB in the high 800’s to maybe 900.
Ergonomics:
I will say it feels LIGHT when compared to other guns even the P-15 - but my P-15 has a laminate stock which I‘m sure adds a pound or two. The QM23(?) bull pup feels much lighter than the advertised 5.5 lbs. It shoulders well.
Action/Trigger:
Action was a little stiff but is smoothing out nicely. Trigger is fairly light at what I would guess is about 2.5 to 3 lbs. Report is negligible considering there is no moderator only the internal baffles and the back ported shroud. Magazines are a little funky in that you have to load the first pellet tail first, then flip the mag over and load the rest head first. If I remember right the Barra mags are the same way. Kind of a pita but you get used to it.
More on the “Elevation Issue”:
I have ordered some Westhunter adjustable rings and plan on raising the front ring up slightly so I can get on target at 50 yards with my crosshairs rather than holding under 4 MOA. I have tried shimming the rings already. The adjustable rings just make more sense.

All in all it punches WAY above its price point. Thinking about a second one for the grandkids as it’s so light and maneuverable.
 
that sounds sweet, i’m seeing mixed reports on if the bullpup is regulated, can you tell if it is or have any external adjustment options
Having not shot it over a chronograph yet, I‘m not sure. I am assuming it does have a regulator, but you know what assume (ing) does right? When this weather moderates I will run a shot string from 250 BAR and see how it performs. Just too darn cold these next few days. the only external adjustment is the hammer spring. They have cut out the back of the stock for easy access. No need to remove the action. IF it is regulated, the rifle will need to be degassed and adjusted thru one end of the air tube. There is no external regulator adjustment.
 
You can get at the reg by either end of the cylinder. To degass there is a small set screw at the very end of the cylinder. Just break it free & give it a few minutes to air out. You have to put a pipe or even a screwdriver shaft in the fill port hole & unscrew the whole assembly. You then need a ft long extension & socket & same length screwdriver. I remove the air tube so I can have the reg & mark it in case I want to return to factory settings. It's very easy after you do it once. Nothing on Spa guns is ever loctited so easy peasy. Screw on reg goes cw to decrease & ccw to increase.
When you say small set screw at the end of the cylinder, do you mean at the stock end? I see 2 screws at the stock end, the bottom one of which someone has told me is the hammer spring adjustment, which is silver. There is a black screw head above that but I do't think that is the one you are talking about