I just watched Utah Airguns video on scope mounting to get the correct eye relief position. As part of the video they set the scope at max power for the shortest eye relief. Then mounted the scope in the position for the shooters eye. They said less than max power the eye relief is more forgiving and harder to get the correct mounting location. That all makes sense to me. But my question is should I buy a scope more powerful that I plan to shoot at so when dialing the power down to the power I want I have a more forgiving eye relief.
Eye relief
- Thread starter marquette
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Yes, it would be in your best interests to buy something with both smaller minimum and higher maximum magnification level than you'd normally use. But it isn't necessarily for the reasons that you are thinking. It would be because it allows for a clearer reticle and image just off of minimum magnification, and especially with a FFP scope. So a 2-12 scope would do well using it from 3-12 during hunting. I've got scopes from.2.5-20, 2-12, and 1-8 and use them just off minimum powers for hunting and quick target acquisition. Then, while on the bench, I crank up the power to comfortable max magnification watch how bad (or calm) that I can rest the cross hairs on target.
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One of the reasons we set a variable power scope to max magnification is because not only do you get a more exact eyebox, you also reduce your parallax error.
low magnification = easier target acquisition. The higher you set the magnification the more you will experience your wobbly hold During aiming.
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cave dweller: Are you saying that using high magnification makes the eye box smaller forcing more precise head placement on the stock thus lessening parralax error?
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Short answer is YES.
Also I prefer my anchor point on jaw bone instead of a cheek weld, less pulsing from blood vessels. That means higher scope mount.
Also I prefer my anchor point on jaw bone instead of a cheek weld, less pulsing from blood vessels. That means higher scope mount.
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Parallax error is multiplied with increased magnification. The likelihood of a shooter dialing it all out quickly is very low, especially if the rifle is not fully supported and decoupled from the shooters body. To minimize the error, I have found it’s best practice to use the minimum amount of magnification needed to comfortably take the shot. Use the max magnification to quickly focus the objective and establish eye placement, then dial back magnification to the lowest comfortable level to make the shot. This will allow you to quickly dial out the majority of the error and then mitigate the effects of whatever error is still left in the system.
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In theory, it the aim point shouldn't move when zooming or focusing parallax, but should just get more in focus to the eye. If the scope is built with any exacting and precise tolerance, then everything should stay aligned, especially when dialing in to correct parallax or zooming up magnification.
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Since I’m more of a visual person, I suggest you go to YouTube and watch several videos about this. It was very helpful to me in the beginning. Or perhaps @steve123 might want to elaborate about the more technical aspects.
i believe this is the Utah Air video you are referring to
Note.... setting your scope up or the initial mounting of your scope is a different thing than when you actually begin to use your scope in the field. By having the scope on max magnification when your setting your eye relief and scope height you will also greatly minimize future eyebox difficulties once you head out to actually use your airgun.
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I don't worry about those kinds of things, I just pick the scope I think I might like based on mag range, features, and how I'll use it. Heck I don't even have levels on my rifles, but neverthelless enjoy goods times and do well in comps on occasion.
For you I suggest instead to buy the best quality you can afford and learn to live with any compromises that might come up. Adjustable cheek piece and butt help alot for optimal eye alignment. It might take a few times to get the scope placed exactly where you want it. Seems like half the time I need a do over next time I get a rifle out to shoot it when I had set the scope up while in the shop.
I'd concern myself more with setting a scope up for the position you'll use most often. Below are some considerations.
Someone shooting off hand will be setting their scope up to be back more towards the eye.
One gun I have I can set up for purely Benchrest, and I have a one piece rest I use, so the scope is set back towards the eye as far as it can be even to the point of putting both rings on the front of the scope tube. Which would make the eye relief too far back for the other positions I use.
That same gun can also be set up for other types of shooting so I mount the scope differently for them. One type is UFT, so I set up the scope eye relief for sitting on a bucket and sticks, which means it's mounted away from my eye more than from a bench off bipod and rear bag since I'm leaned forward a bit.
Lastly I have rifles set up for prone off the bipod and those scopes are mounted forward even more for proper eye relief than when sitting on bucket and shooting off sticks.
For you I suggest instead to buy the best quality you can afford and learn to live with any compromises that might come up. Adjustable cheek piece and butt help alot for optimal eye alignment. It might take a few times to get the scope placed exactly where you want it. Seems like half the time I need a do over next time I get a rifle out to shoot it when I had set the scope up while in the shop.
I'd concern myself more with setting a scope up for the position you'll use most often. Below are some considerations.
Someone shooting off hand will be setting their scope up to be back more towards the eye.
One gun I have I can set up for purely Benchrest, and I have a one piece rest I use, so the scope is set back towards the eye as far as it can be even to the point of putting both rings on the front of the scope tube. Which would make the eye relief too far back for the other positions I use.
That same gun can also be set up for other types of shooting so I mount the scope differently for them. One type is UFT, so I set up the scope eye relief for sitting on a bucket and sticks, which means it's mounted away from my eye more than from a bench off bipod and rear bag since I'm leaned forward a bit.
Lastly I have rifles set up for prone off the bipod and those scopes are mounted forward even more for proper eye relief than when sitting on bucket and shooting off sticks.
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Thanks Steve. Your experience helped clarify some things. I don't use a tripod enough. Had yet to purchase one I felt confident in. Be Well Brothers, Bandito.
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Cave dweller: I took your advice and spent about 2 hours last night watching videos on eye relief. I learned a lot that answered almost all of my questions. One video from a PRS shooter was very helpful as he explained head position in various shooting positions such as bench,prone, bi-pod, barricades or offhand. Bench being the most forward position and highest magnification in most cases. Other positions usually use lower magnification and the head moves back along with the extended eye relief to suit the position. What I found interesting is he was mounting a $4000 Razor scope on a high power chassis gun. It was 36x and he preferred it at 20-25 magnication at prone because the optics weren’t as good at 36x. I’ve seen that same comment from AGN members about buying more power than you need to dial back into the sweet magnification range. I can understand that on a $500 scope but I was surprised to see it on a $4000 scope. But I suppose it depends on your expectations and level of competition. I’ve only ever looked through one really high level Nightforce scope that belonged to a sniper instructor. At 500 yards I felt like I could hit a knot on a tree like at 15 yds with my Hawke scope.
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High end optics - let say TIER1 glass, high power in a range x50 shall see a single 308 hole or a group @ 500 in an average grey day just before the rain soaked the black paper ring. I think @ 800 shall be still visible if no halo or mirage.
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