I bought a Teslong NGT100 boroscope months ago and just got around to using it today. The head is about 5mm in diameter and easily fits into a 22 caliber or larger barrel. I have some mirror heads for it but I haven't used them yet. I often get frustrated with things like this and it happened today. The app demanded the model and it was not in any of the packaging. But eventually I got on line and figured it out. I looked at the barrels of my most accurate PCPs both of which have given me a 200 on the 30 yard challenge. I looked at my P35-22 and my Caiman X, also in 22 caliber. The first several pictures are the P35, the final few are the Caiman. The barrel on the Caiman is hammer forged, I think, and there seemed to be tiny copper flakes in the barrel. The P35 barrel seemed to have thread like lead deposits in some areas with some rectangular chunks near the crown. The Caiman had some much larger lead deposits about as deep as the rifling back near the throat. I gave both barrels at least 50 strokes with JB's bore paste on a patch. That cleaned up the P35 better than the Caiman. Too windy to see if I made a difference, I'm not expecting I did.
Finally used my boroscope
- Thread starter JimD
- Start date
Me too. If anything by appearance of the rifling I like the SPA barrel better. They both shoot very well, however.
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For me they were always kind of a Pandora's box...guess I lived all these years without and will continue without. Always could feel the inside of my barrels through the years to know if I had issues or not by what my patch was doing, real evident with a pull through system.
Not saying their garbage, just not for me
Not saying their garbage, just not for me
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I have the same usb camera for year, but accidentally I was using one other much worst app up to recently.
Great camera.
Great camera.
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Bore scopes don't lie .... if fouling is there & focus is clear you absolutely can find location/s and scrub it out !!
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Scott, further scrubbing with JB's is on the agenda for this morning (as we get a big storm). If that doesn't get it I think I have some coarse material I can use. The barrel shoots well and I get a lot less lead out of it during a normal cleaning but it seems to have some rough spots.
Mike, I'm sure you're right, I don't spell well. I am an engineer.
The bore scope I'm using is available on Aliexpress for less than $40.
Mike, I'm sure you're right, I don't spell well. I am an engineer.
The bore scope I'm using is available on Aliexpress for less than $40.
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Here are a couple of the worst areas after several hundred passes with JB's. They still don't look great but the deposits on top of the lands seem to be pretty well removed.
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I think it's mostly lead but I'm not sure what the orange patches are. Rust? There were some in other areas of the bore that cleaned up completely.
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I also looked at a SPA 25 caliber barrel and it looked a lot like the 22. Nothing looked odd to me.
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JB IS NOT abrasive enough to remove lead fouling !!!
Use a Bronze brush and any marketed lead softening/ removal solvent.
Patches alone wont do it either
Use a Bronze brush and any marketed lead softening/ removal solvent.
Patches alone wont do it either
Here is where I get myself in trouble. What I'm about to say may horrify many but its worked for me in black powder guns, Scheutzen rifles, rimfire rifles and airguns. I use a few stands of No. 4 steel wool wrapped around an appropriately fitted patch to remove serious lead fouling. It may take several passes and sometimes adding JB is necessary.
I had to do this last month to a seriously leaded 700 cm liner in a new Panthera. In this case, cleaning was done with the liner removed from the rifle to avoid damage to the breech o-ring and to assure that cleaning materials and fouling do not contaminate the transfer port or the valve.
JackHughs
I had to do this last month to a seriously leaded 700 cm liner in a new Panthera. In this case, cleaning was done with the liner removed from the rifle to avoid damage to the breech o-ring and to assure that cleaning materials and fouling do not contaminate the transfer port or the valve.
JackHughs
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I did a little research by Google after Scott's comment. I also looked for my old PB cleaning stuff. I couldn't find a brass brush so I ordered a few. I found some Kroil which I used to like for this. I saw several comments about steel wool or a similar product made of brass. I'm going to see how it goes with a brush first after soaking the barrel with Kroil. I need more slugs for the Caiman so I have a few more days to work on the cleaning before I get the projectiles to use in it.
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Geez, several hundred passes!! wtf? What's up with that? Wouldn't you think that is excessive?
More cleaning, something wrong.Be funny if it shoot worse. just kidding,but your are tripping
More cleaning, something wrong.Be funny if it shoot worse. just kidding,but your are trippingUpvote 0
Still waiting on some bronze brushes but I decided to look at my oldest P35. A 25 caliber. It may not have had more shots than the 22 but both have had more than the Caiman (mainly because I've had them longer). First I looked at it as it was. Had deposits. Then I cleaned it with Ballistol. Cleaned up completely.
So why do my 3 SPA barrels fail to lead up but my one CZ barrel leads up a lot? All have seen thousands of projectiles pass through with the CZ seeing the least. I think the CZ barrel is good because it is accurate but it seems odd that the "China barrels" seem better in this way.
So why do my 3 SPA barrels fail to lead up but my one CZ barrel leads up a lot? All have seen thousands of projectiles pass through with the CZ seeing the least. I think the CZ barrel is good because it is accurate but it seems odd that the "China barrels" seem better in this way.
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There are a variety of possible reasons. My recommendation would be as follows...before scrubbing out the leading, advance the borescope to the leaded areas and make a mark on the flex neck to note those locations. Then after you get it removed, push some pellets through and feel for increased resistance. It will almost certainly occur at those locations.
If the change in resistance is not very noticeable, try a slug or a different pellet. Typical pellets just don't have much surface area in contact with the bore but a few examples that do are the JSB Monster Redesign, H&N Rabbit Magnum, and heavy Seneca pellets.
The increased resistance could be a slight constriction in the bore, or surface roughness, or counterintuitively could even be from being overpolished.
In this case, being a CZ barrel suggests it is hammer forged. Hammer forging tends to produce a very good surface finish (not too rough, not too smooth) but it imparts a lot of stresses in the material so most likely it is a tight spot or very minutely out of round.
If the change in resistance is not very noticeable, try a slug or a different pellet. Typical pellets just don't have much surface area in contact with the bore but a few examples that do are the JSB Monster Redesign, H&N Rabbit Magnum, and heavy Seneca pellets.
The increased resistance could be a slight constriction in the bore, or surface roughness, or counterintuitively could even be from being overpolished.
In this case, being a CZ barrel suggests it is hammer forged. Hammer forging tends to produce a very good surface finish (not too rough, not too smooth) but it imparts a lot of stresses in the material so most likely it is a tight spot or very minutely out of round.
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PB shooters have been using pure copper strands wrapped around a brush for fast removal of lead for a century or more. It is the fastest way bar none, and it won't harm real steel barrels. You get the copper strands from pot scrubbers that are pure copper, be careful, lots of pot scrubbers are actually steel that is coated in copper, bad juju. Make sure the package says pure copper, and since companies lie all the time, put a magnet on it to see. There is no faster way, it is amazing. I spent years shooting silhouette with hard cast lead, thousands of rounds a month in practice. I used this on high dollar revolvers without hesitation.
this is what it looks like:
this is what it looks like:
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The copper pot scrubber is my backup plan. I believe they may be sold as "Chore Boy". There is an Ace hardware not too far away that is supposed to have them in stock. I will try the bronze bore brush first. If it seems to need help I will get some of the copper scrubbers. I think the copper will be more gentile, however. Bronze is copper alloyed with tin to make it harder and stronger. But I think the brush will get down in the grooves better. Bronze should not damage steel.
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