FX Impact m3 .22 compact settings

I am in Palm City but work down in Jupiter. I agree it’s a lot of air to lose over the course of 2 magazines. Something just seems off and I know I’ll figure it out. I just feel like I’m playing ping pong with the settings. I’m not giving up 😂
Gotcha, if it gets to be too much I can take it off your hands sometime this week or next and see what I can do for ya. I normally tune my teams FX guns.
 
being a new member here but a member turbocoupe 88 who is NM-FXM4 has a couple videos on you tube
he has these fx impacts m3-m4s figured out, he tuned my gun today after his mods its crazy accurate and in a 15 20 shot string.
no more that 3-4 fps spread don't care if the gun sits a week 1st shot to last. I've heard all the negative there is no fix blah blah blah.
take a look at the video i posted in. what did you do air gun related today.
tell ya what he is like a kid in a candy store waiting for this new leopard.
he said i can't wait to take it apart, he is nuts.
So what does he do? Does he have a video tutorial on how he tunes or anything?
 
Gotcha, if it gets to be too much I can take it off your hands sometime this week or next and see what I can do for ya. I normally tune my teams FX guns.
You know…one thing that I’ve always been curious about and wondered if it could possibly be affecting things is my valve adjuster makes contact with the barrel shroud at about 3 1/3 lines so I am unable to take my valve adjuster fully out to 4 likes. I’ve spoken to a few people on the industry who said this is normal and shouldn’t have an effect on anything for what I’m doing. I can confirm that the valve adjuster doesn’t really affect my fps until I get closer to 3 lines or so, but just something I’ve thought about.

I appreciate the offer to help me out and check the tune. If I really can’t make any progress on it I may take you up on that.
 
You know…one thing that I’ve always been curious about and wondered if it could possibly be affecting things is my valve adjuster makes contact with the barrel shroud at about 3 1/3 lines so I am unable to take my valve adjuster fully out to 4 likes. I’ve spoken to a few people on the industry who said this is normal and shouldn’t have an effect on anything for what I’m doing. I can confirm that the valve adjuster doesn’t really affect my fps until I get closer to 3 lines or so, but just something I’ve thought about.

I appreciate the offer to help me out and check the tune. If I really can’t make any progress on it I may take you up on that.
Who ever told you it's normal is lying, i completely forgot about that.

Anytime i've tuned a compact m3 I have to loosen the shroud to increase the valve adjuster. Then tighen the shroud against the valve without moving the valve. But this is for higher power set ups.

You can try it and see if it helps.

You can get this piece to help remedy that issue.
 
Who ever told you it's normal is lying, i completely forgot about that.

Anytime i've tuned a compact m3 I have to loosen the shroud to increase the valve adjuster. Then tighen the shroud against the valve without moving the valve. But this is for higher power set ups.

You can try it and see if it helps.

You can get this piece to help remedy that issue.
Well, one of them was Patrick S at Palm Beach Airguns. And then he suggested I called Newman at Cape Fear Airguns who was heavily involved in FX (forgot his position) and they both told me that was normal and the compacts did that. There is a forum on here that also has dozens of people saying the same thing, so I assume it is normal. I can solve it with a piece of carbon fiber tubing but from what I understand it’s totally normal for the 500mm.

Installing that piece would require disassembly of the barrel shroud. Is that simple to do?
 
Well, one of them was Patrick S at Palm Beach Airguns. And then he suggested I called Newman at Cape Fear Airguns who was heavily involved in FX (forgot his position) and they both told me that was normal and the compacts did that. There is a forum on here that also has dozens of people saying the same thing, so I assume it is normal. I can solve it with a piece of carbon fiber tubing but from what I understand it’s totally normal for the 500mm.

Installing that piece would require disassembly of the barrel shroud. Is that simple to do?
Gotcha, in thay instance, yes it is normal. But they really should've gone with the same conical shape on the compact as they did with the 600mm/700mm.

I believe you need to use a heat gun to remove that small piece along with needle pliers.
 
Gotcha, in thay instance, yes it is normal. But they really should've gone with the same conical shape on the compact as they did with the 600mm/700mm.

I believe you need to use a heat gun to remove that small piece along with needle pliers.
Yes I agree they SHOULD have gone with the conical endcap. But I’be been told that’s normal and it’s unnecessary on the 500mm because if you are plan on hammering the snot out of the compact, you should just get a 600/700mm barrel. I may get back on the phone with them today and see if I can get some additional information and advice on things. Even in AEAC master tuning guide video (forgot his name) he states the valve hits the shroud and it’s normal and just to tune from 1/4 turn off the shroud. I guess I need to figure out exactly how much speed to take off with the hammer and how much speed to take off with the valve. I’m guessing 30ish fps from hammer and another 30ish from the valve for peak efficiency and performance. Take the gun to 910-915 fps, drop back on hammer to 880ish, pull in the valve adjuster to 850-860 fps (which is where I’ve heard the hades are happy). From what I’m understanding this is ideal??
 
Yes I agree they SHOULD have gone with the conical endcap. But I’be been told that’s normal and it’s unnecessary on the 500mm because if you are plan on hammering the snot out of the compact, you should just get a 600/700mm barrel. I may get back on the phone with them today and see if I can get some additional information and advice on things. Even in AEAC master tuning guide video (forgot his name) he states the valve hits the shroud and it’s normal and just to tune from 1/4 turn off the shroud. I guess I need to figure out exactly how much speed to take off with the hammer and how much speed to take off with the valve. I’m guessing 30ish fps from hammer and another 30ish from the valve for peak efficiency and performance. Take the gun to 910-915 fps, drop back on hammer to 880ish, pull in the valve adjuster to 850-860 fps (which is where I’ve heard the hades are happy). From what I’m understanding this is ideal??
Those pellets are happy from 800-920. It just depends on your barrel and your tune.
 
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Those pellets are happy from 800-920. It just depends on your barrel and your tune.
I figured out a lot of good information over the last few days and have been very successful tuning. The biggest piece of the puzzle that I was missing was learning about harmonics.

I saw a video on tuning that made so much sense and changed my perception of tuning. I found max velocity (at 80/120 regs) and put the power wheel on 16 at max velocity and shot a 3 shot group (around 900 fps). The. I dropped power wheel to 15 and shot 3 shot group. Then 14, 13, 12, 11, 10…all the way down to the low 800s, noting group size for each power level. Found that at power level 11 (850-860 fps) the groups got VERY tight. From there I played a little with the micro-wheel to fine tune the groups even further. Once I was completely satisfied with the groups, I started playing with the valve to see if it could get even tighter.

The results were fantastic; though the SD and ES weren’t the best. But my groups and consistently were wonderful. I guess at the end of the day that’s really what I care about. I want to hit iguanas in the off switch. By tuning this way, the gun is extremely efficient, getting way over 100 shots on a 250bar fill. It is as accurate as I’ve ever seen and makes me totally confident in.

Had one of these pellets stray just a tad (could have been the pellet) but still incredibly happy with the result. This is 10 shots at 25 yards. Of course 25 yards is only the beginning, but I’ll have to wait for the weekend to find a place to shoot out to 50+. The top groups were 5 shots each and were basically in the same hole.

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I figured out a lot of good information over the last few days and have been very successful tuning. The biggest piece of the puzzle that I was missing was learning about harmonics.

I saw a video on tuning that made so much sense and changed my perception of tuning. I found max velocity (at 80/120 regs) and put the power wheel on 16 at max velocity and shot a 3 shot group (around 900 fps). The. I dropped power wheel to 15 and shot 3 shot group. Then 14, 13, 12, 11, 10…all the way down to the low 800s, noting group size for each power level. Found that at power level 11 (850-860 fps) the groups got VERY tight. From there I played a little with the micro-wheel to fine tune the groups even further. Once I was completely satisfied with the groups, I started playing with the valve to see if it could get even tighter.

The results were fantastic; though the SD and ES weren’t the best. But my groups and consistently were wonderful. I guess at the end of the day that’s really what I care about. I want to hit iguanas in the off switch. By tuning this way, the gun is extremely efficient, getting way over 100 shots on a 250bar fill. It is as accurate as I’ve ever seen and makes me totally confident in.

Had one of these pellets stray just a tad (could have been the pellet) but still incredibly happy with the result. This is 10 shots at 25 yards. Of course 25 yards is only the beginning, but I’ll have to wait for the weekend to find a place to shoot out to 50+. The top groups were 5 shots each and were basically in the same hole.

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Hell yeah bud! Good on you for figuring it out! Funny you say that about the speed as 95% of 900fps puts you at 855fps! Enjoy your gun and those groups are great!
 
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