Huben Any issues or problems with Huben gk1 please share your experience

No issues here I have a Gen 1

<deleted> it was a scope problem

JDGriz said:

The barrel shroud base is not fully parallel to the bore axis and tightening the barrel nut (or moderator adapter) bends the barrel to the side, a little bit (about 1-2mm, to be precise). In other words, shroud seating in the receiver make is sit pointing slightly to the side. This is on my specific V3 in .25. It is still quite accurate and has been so far, but there was/is a definite jump to the side (recoil to the right in my case), at high powers. Not sure if it was this way originally, or maybe something got crushed a bit, along the way.
I only found this out because a scope mounted on the shroud, which was optically centered, produced a POI of about 20 moa to the left.

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I did a write-up on this barrel nut to shroud interface, as it actually can kick the long moderator enough to the side to create a clipping issue. My fix was to lightly sand the face of the hole flat using a disk of wet dry paper and the barrel nut wrapped with tape so it fit centered tight in the shroud while sanding. It's in post 32 above.

Airgun-hobbyist said:

I did a write-up on this barrel nut to shroud interface, as it actually can kick the long moderator enough to the side to create a clipping issue. My fix was to lightly sand the face of the hole flat using a disk of wet dry paper and the barrel nut wrapped with tape so it fit centered tight in the shroud while sanding. It's in post 32 above.

Huben - Any issues or problems with Huben gk1 please share your experience

As a follow-up to this, I finally was able to contact the Huben factory yesterday of this issue and I have received an acknowledgement. We will see what, if anything this brings.. I received a reply from the factory> > > see below: Dear Steve, Thanks for choosing Huben GK1! Thank you very...

www.airgunnation.com

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<deleted> it was a scope problem

FLgunner said:

So far the only issue I've had is with slugs that don't fit tight enough in the magazine. I have not had any jams because if I can't spin the magazines a couple complete revolutions without a slug getting hung up, I empty the magazine and don't even try to shoot them. The .254 slugs from NSA do work and actually group pretty decent at 20 yards. I did change the loading gate to one of the flip up models to make loading easier. Other than that, no issues thus far...

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Try AVS 254 42grain flat base.

Having now disassembled and re- assembled the pistol several times I must say that one of the methods to degas is actually a terrible idea: don't remove the back end, and fire the gun, and catch the striker with a rug. One - the seer will not reset and you can't push the striker back in, without also reaching inside from the bottom and pressing on the rear side of the seer assembly with a hex key or screwdriver, while also pressing the trigger etc. And two - pushing the other two parts (valve bits), which sit in front of the striker, past the seer, might also damage the sealing surface as it grinds past the seer. Only use the screw beneath the loading gate for degassing.

Edit: the barrel is fine, except that the bore is not 100% concentric to the outside, a little bit. This is why it has a flat 90 deg flat crown, which then turns into a 45 deg chamfer further outwards. Original issues turned out to be a scope problem.

JDGriz said:

Having now disassembled and re- assembled the pistol several times I must say that one of the methods to degas is actually a terrible idea: don't remove the back end, and fire the gun, and catch the striker with a rug. One - the seer will not reset and you can't push the striker back in, without also reaching inside from the bottom and pressing on the rear side of the seer assembly with a hex key or screwdriver, while also pressing the trigger etc. And two - pushing the other two parts (valve bits), which sit in front of the striker, past the seer, might also damage the sealing surface as it grinds past the seer. Only use the screw beneath the loading gate for degassing.

As to the the barrel issue - seriously, this is a terrible barrel, at least mine is. I think I'm going to time it so that it shoots upwards and shorten the back end a tiny bit to preserve the clearance to the mag.

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You are suposed to reassemble the back plate, without spring but with the rubber spring guide/bumper. This way nothing shoots out and the gun degasses slowly. This works very well for degassing and is the easiest, lowest risk way to degass.

Sergey1972 said:

You are suposed to reassemble the back plate, without spring but with the rubber spring guide/bumper. This way nothing shoots out and the gun degasses slowly. This works very well for degassing and is the easiest, lowest risk way to degass.

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yeah, this is how kelly showed me how to do it. reassemble the back plate without the bumper and fire it, it won't close the valve and it all drains out.

wimpanzee said:

yeah, this is how kelly showed me how to do it. reassemble the back plate without the bumper and fire it, it won't close the valve and it all drains out.

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The bumper is necessary. It keeps the hammer from hitting the back plate, metal to metal. Lack of spring keeps valve from closing fully.

Sergey1972 said:

The bumper is necessary. It keeps the hammer from hitting the back plate, metal to metal. Lack of spring keeps valve from closing fully.

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sorry, yes i meant remove the spring not the bumper. you do want the bumper in there when degassing it!

Sergey1972 said:

You are suposed to reassemble the back plate, without spring but with the rubber spring guide/bumper. This way nothing shoots out and the gun degasses slowly. This works very well for degassing and is the easiest, lowest risk way to degass.

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Yes, this makes more sense.

i had a new issue with my gk1 this weekend. it started hissing, then stopped, then started again...until it was empty. it sounded like a failing oring, and it was!
It was the oring under the brass return housing, oring #26 on the standard parts diagram. Swapped it out with the spare one supplied with the gun, and it seems to be holding air.
Mine is a v1, so i have had it for a little while.

Had my gk 1 .25 shorty v3 dry fire after the last shot start dumping air down to the last 2 hash marks on the gauge. The valve closed and the mag reset.
Clicked the safety down. Filled the gun no problem. Weird.