I've got limited experience...I put a TbT kit into my HW35 without difficulty. New rifle. Cleaned it, deburred it, lubricated it with Krytox, even polished the piston. Nick has some great videos and it really wasn't difficult. But after reassembly, the rifle simply wouldn't cock. The latch wouldn't engage the trigger assembly. Took it apart, redid everything and...no change. Put the original spring assembly in and...no problem. Tried it again....the same thing. E-mailed Nick and he responded quickly and asked me to measure the depth of the piston, which I did and it was the same as in his video. I did e-mail him a photo of the measurement and a video of the rifle with me trying to cock it, but no reply. Looks like he had shoulder surgery, so no worries. My question is this: what is the most common reason for this scenario? I assume it is that the compressed spring is too long to allow engagement and I just need to remove a coil or two. But I don't want to do that unless absolutely necessary. The rifle shoots great with just the cleaning and lubing with Krytox. Suggestions? Cheers! Rick Here is the rifle from today...
HW/Weihrauch A simple question for the springer tuners
- Thread starter RCope
- Start date
Something is too long. You have a spacer down in the piston or the guides are touching. The spring is bunched up. Something is a little too long.
Tear it down. Make sure there isn't a spacer down in the piston. Take the tophat off and see if it will cock.
Is it a full power kit? Mine came with "power spacers". If you use them things will be too long and it won't cock. It also came with a slip washer under the tophat. Take that out and see if it cocks...
Tear it down. Make sure there isn't a spacer down in the piston. Take the tophat off and see if it will cock.
Is it a full power kit? Mine came with "power spacers". If you use them things will be too long and it won't cock. It also came with a slip washer under the tophat. Take that out and see if it cocks...
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I know you said you measured and the measurements match what Nick has on his video.
1. I would double check your piston ...there may or may not be a slip/thrust washer stuck up there.
2. If you are using any washers, try removing them.
As already mentioned. on post #2 (sorry repeating same suggestions)
I had the same problem with Nic's Kit for one of my TX200 (strange that my other TX didn't have a problem). I ended up removing about 2 mm from the top of his spring guide. (last resort) cos you really need that slip/thrust washer to help with the torque/recoil.
1. I would double check your piston ...there may or may not be a slip/thrust washer stuck up there.
2. If you are using any washers, try removing them.
As already mentioned. on post #2 (sorry repeating same suggestions)
I had the same problem with Nic's Kit for one of my TX200 (strange that my other TX didn't have a problem). I ended up removing about 2 mm from the top of his spring guide. (last resort) cos you really need that slip/thrust washer to help with the torque/recoil.
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The kit comes with a washer but that was installed when the measurement was made. Although this is a new rifle with a new kit, my thought is that it is too long, as you stated. I did assemble the rifle without the washer (which is apparently used due to the spring rotation, it is a thin delrin washer that the original does not have.) The rifle still did not latch with or without the washer...I am a *certified* HW35 mechanic ;-). I've taken this thing apart and put it back together a lot!
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If you take the top hat off and try it that will narrow it down some. If it still won't cock its (probably) the spring bunching. If it will its (probably) the guides that need shortening or flanges too thick.
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I've installed tune kits into 2 dozen or so springers, mostly HW's. If what you describe was happening , it was the spacing.
It could be other things but as all I changed was the spring/spacing it was pretty clear what needed to happen to fix it
It could be other things but as all I changed was the spring/spacing it was pretty clear what needed to happen to fix it
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I've always wondered exactly how close the parts were together in there.
My tinbum kit says if you use the "power washers" with a full power kit it might not cock.
I am assuming the ends of the guides butt together before the spring bunches. But that is just an assumption. I think it's safe to say the guides come pretty close together at full cock.
If you eliminated the top hat and stacked spacers under the spring equal to the dimension of the tophat flange it would tell you definitively if the guides were touching or the spring was bunching.
My tinbum kit says if you use the "power washers" with a full power kit it might not cock.
I am assuming the ends of the guides butt together before the spring bunches. But that is just an assumption. I think it's safe to say the guides come pretty close together at full cock.
If you eliminated the top hat and stacked spacers under the spring equal to the dimension of the tophat flange it would tell you definitively if the guides were touching or the spring was bunching.
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I really want to take everything apart and clamp the spring assembly to see if it is more than the stock assembly. But, even though I have a bunch of different clamps and a bench clamp (woodworker) I don't think I have any thing with that amount of travel. I am happy with the rifle right now, but the TbT kits have smoothed out a couple of my other rifles, I don't want to think I wasted my money, though. Maybe I'll try to get in touch with Nick again, if this is a problem with me and my rifle, I'm sure I'm not alone. Cheers!
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I'm not familiar with the TBT kits. I'm assuming there's a top hat and rear spring guide. If they're too long they will butt against each other before the piston latches to the trigger. You can check this by removing the spring, and sliding the top hat and the rear guide on the piston latch rod in prop orientation. The rear guide flange should touch the piston skirt.
If it stands free from the piston, reassemble the rifle without the spring and see if it latches. If if doesn't, you need to trim the either the top hat or rear guide.
If it does latch without the spring, the spring is coil binding (too long)
If it stands free from the piston, reassemble the rifle without the spring and see if it latches. If if doesn't, you need to trim the either the top hat or rear guide.
If it does latch without the spring, the spring is coil binding (too long)
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3 reasons gun won’t fully cock. PENDING TRIGGER WORKS. As you said it does.
1. spring bound
2. guide top hat bound
3. guide washer or base TO THICK NOT ALLOWING CLEARANCE FOR THE REAR PISTON BODDY TO COCK to engage the rod.
1. spring bound
2. guide top hat bound
3. guide washer or base TO THICK NOT ALLOWING CLEARANCE FOR THE REAR PISTON BODDY TO COCK to engage the rod.
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All good info above
You don't have to clamp the springs to see how long they are, just count the coils and X that by the wire diameter, that will = the bound length.
You don't have to clamp the springs to see how long they are, just count the coils and X that by the wire diameter, that will = the bound length.
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Same exact thing happened to me on my TX200. The original top hat was stuck inside the piston. After some persuading it came out. Seems like maybe an extra washer or something to me. Good luck.
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If you confirm there is nothing in the inside of the piston like a stuck washer and tophat, Just measure the original spring top hat etc and then compare to the stack height of what you put in, if the new stuff is more reduce the stack height by taking out a washer etc as others have said. I have purchased kits (not tinbum) that bound if I used all the washers, I usually start with none of them and work up.
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