Enhancing a Beechwood / Beech Gun Stock

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Star7 said:
It's wrecking the checkering that gives me pause. I've only checkered one stock and it went incredibly well until it didn't. I tried to not let people see that side of the stock. Stripping and sanding are quite an art around the checkering.
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It’s fine to strip the checkering. Just use lacquer thinner (to remove the stripper and finish) with a very soft brush to apply it. Then blow out the wet checking with air. Don’t wire brush it or even handle it when it’s wet. To soft. Then when it’s dry use blue painters tape and an exacto knife and cut in the edges. Now sand with the grain by hand up to the tape. Leave the tape on through the entire staining and finishing process. The tape can be removed a couple times to check out everything. To many times and it will loose its adhesive. If that happens re-tape. Remember, hand checkering is done after the stock is completely finished. So, if you want it to look correct, no finish (not even an oil finish) in the checkering. If using a heavy bodied stain, don’t apply it in the checkering either. A very thin stain can be applied in the checkering. Just blow it out with air when wet. Again, do not rub the checkering when it’s wet.
 
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My 1984 R1 has a Gowdy Beech stock.
Since Day 1 it has had about 100 coats of finger applied BLO and wipe down with a BLO impregnated silicone cloth after each shooting session.
Looks fine to me.
I know the OP put in a lot of work but his stock does not look good to me.

IMG_0109.jpeg
 
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thumper said:
I'm not sure what the BLO is supposed to do when it's applied over a factory varnish. :unsure:
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It can actually work on plain Varnish but I don't know about urethane which the Beeman stock most likely is.
Acetone will make oil finish gum up. Not so much to cured urethanes.
I have improved worn varnished or oiled stocks with Minwax Antique oil after a light scrubbing with fine steel wool. Works real well for me.
 
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Bear-of-Grayling said:
It’s fine to strip the checkering. Just use lacquer thinner (to remove the stripper and finish) with a very soft brush to apply it. Then blow out the wet checking with air. Don’t wire brush it or even handle it when it’s wet. To soft. Then when it’s dry use blue painters tape and an exacto knife and cut in the edges. Now sand with the grain by hand up to the tape. Leave the tape on through the entire staining and finishing process. The tape can be removed a couple times to check out everything. To many times and it will loose its adhesive. If that happens re-tape. Remember, hand checkering is done after the stock is completely finished. So, if you want it to look correct, no finish (not even an oil finish) in the checkering. If using a heavy bodied stain, don’t apply it in the checkering either. A very thin stain can be applied in the checkering. Just blow it out with air when wet. Again, do not rub the checkering when it’s wet.
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I don't worry about checkering at all. If it gets sanded a little no problem because I chase it all out with needle files I heated and curved the tips. Not hard to chase it out. if you remain focused. I slop stain on fast over the whole stock and wipe it down. Sometimes for beech I wipe it on with a rag just the right amount and don't wipe off. Don't sand past 220 if you want beech to take any stain. I don't tape anything. Just don't load up the checks with finish. After checkering a finished stock the checks are not left unfinished. I even use a wire brush on it when I strip. Even the checkers. Oh my!
The Tomahawk is obviously Walnut but see the checkers.
P1010059 - Copy.jpgP1010055.JPG20210815_200542.jpg
 
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Finally - Fuming Beach Stocks:

I have given up trying to refinish the Beech stocks on my BAM, QB & Weihrauch Airguns.
Refinishing beech stocks has always been a semi-nightmare: Blotched wood, 2 step poly being inconsistent or too dark (covering grain) and water based stain leaving a un-natural, mono toned look.

Going to build a fuming tent out of simple pine and thick, clear plastic sheeting. Industrial ammonia works best -$20 for 32 oz.
Using the industrial stuff requires pretty strict safety measures so not to gas yourself.

Because Beech has a high concentration on Tannins much like White Oak, placing a stock in a fuming tent for a few days seems to be a simple way to bring out the very nice grain we rarely see in beech stocks.

If my fuming process turns out as I expect (given the results w/white oak), I may sand down a few of my (Breech) Weihrauch stocks which I feel are too bulky (HW95 Lexus & newer HW80S SLK).

It’s just so easy to sand down HW35E (Walnut) stocks to make them fit my hands and the re-stain … refinish them to look way better (IMO) than their OEM version.

I’ve put this off for years, but buying materials next week to hopefully ….. unlock a new Beech stock refinishing process for me 🙂.
 
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SpiralGroove said:
Finally - Fuming Beach Stocks:

I have given up trying to refinish the Beech stocks on my BAM, QB & Weihrauch Airguns.
Refinishing beech stocks has always been a semi-nightmare: Blotched wood, 2 step poly being inconsistent or too dark (covering grain) and water based stain leaving a un-natural, mono toned look.

Going to build a fuming tent out of simple pine and thick, clear plastic sheeting. Industrial ammonia works best -$20 for 32 oz.
Using the industrial stuff requires pretty strict safety measures so not to gas yourself.

Because Beech has a high concentration on Tannins much like White Oak, placing a stock in a fuming tent for a few days seems to be a simple to bring out the very nice grain we rarely see in out beech stocks.

If my fuming process turns out as I expect (given the results w/white oak), I may sand down a few of my (Breech) Weihrauch stocks (aka Walnut) which I feel are too bulky (HW95 Lexus & newer HW80S SLK).

It’s just so easy to sand down HW35E (Walnut) stocks to make them fit my hands and the re-stain … refinish them to look way better (IMO) than their OEM version.

I’ve put this off for years, but buying materials next week to hopefully ….. unlock the Beech stock refinishing process 🙂.
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Can’t wait to see The results Kirk.
 
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SpiralGroove said:
Finally - Fuming Beach Stocks:

I have given up trying to refinish the Beech stocks on my BAM, QB & Weihrauch Airguns.
Refinishing beech stocks has always been a semi-nightmare: Blotched wood, 2 step poly being inconsistent or too dark (covering grain) and water based stain leaving a un-natural, mono toned look.

Going to build a fuming tent out of simple pine and thick, clear plastic sheeting. Industrial ammonia works best -$20 for 32 oz.
Using the industrial stuff requires pretty strict safety measures so not to gas yourself.

Because Beech has a high concentration on Tannins much like White Oak, placing a stock in a fuming tent for a few days seems to be a simple to bring out the very nice grain we rarely see in out beech stocks.

If my fuming process turns out as I expect (given the results w/white oak), I may sand down a few of my (Breech) Weihrauch stocks (aka Walnut) which I feel are too bulky (HW95 Lexus & newer HW80S SLK).

It’s just so easy to sand down HW35E (Walnut) stocks to make them fit my hands and the re-stain … refinish them to look way better (IMO) than their OEM version.

I’ve put this off for years, but buying materials next week to hopefully ….. unlock the Beech stock refinishing process 🙂.
Click to expand...
Vinegar , steel wool, or rusty nails. in a Jar ,with breather hole to actvate for a week. Iron oxide bleaching will net you the same results then use dye. Not stain. Has to be sprayed not oiled.
 
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Hey A.G.R.,
What‘s nice about the fuming process, is it penetrates deep into the wood … so its basic color/nature is altered/darkened. It’s not just a surface changing process. You can further sand the wood and not worry about ruining the look of the wood coloration.

- I’m not sure this applies to Iron Oxide Bleaching?

Again, this is a new adventure for me that won’t cost more than a $50.
 
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c_m_shooter said:
Has anyone tried the process used on flame maple guitars? Dye first with black, then sand most of that off leaving enough to highlight some grain. Then top that with some color and layers of clear.
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Yes, did something similar on my (Wilkinson) Fender Telecaster kit with Ash body. The Siena Sunbust looks like the ones on the $1,800 production models. I coated it with Urathane poly. It doesn’t have a glass, buffed finish, but looks very nice.

I tried something similar on a Beeman R9 stock, but was unsatisfied with the results.
I used General water based stain which come in nice colors.
That was my last straw …… hence Fuming.
 
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From the two Beeman (Goudy) stocks I have sanded, definitely water based.
It seemed the pistol grip, end of butt sock and forearm end received heavier stain to give the stock’s lines more contour/shape ….. they might have clear coated with a stain embedded too?

Obviously, Beeman partnered with someone who knew what they were doing🚀.
 
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SpiralGroove said:
Finally - Fuming Beach Stocks:

I have given up trying to refinish the Beech stocks on my BAM, QB & Weihrauch Airguns.
Refinishing beech stocks has always been a semi-nightmare: Blotched wood, 2 step poly being inconsistent or too dark (covering grain) and water based stain leaving a un-natural, mono toned look.

Going to build a fuming tent out of simple pine and thick, clear plastic sheeting. Industrial ammonia works best -$20 for 32 oz.
Using the industrial stuff requires pretty strict safety measures so not to gas yourself.

Because Beech has a high concentration on Tannins much like White Oak, placing a stock in a fuming tent for a few days seems to be a simple way to bring out the very nice grain we rarely see in beech stocks.

If my fuming process turns out as I expect (given the results w/white oak), I may sand down a few of my (Breech) Weihrauch stocks (aka Walnut) which I feel are too bulky (HW95 Lexus & newer HW80S SLK).

It’s just so easy to sand down HW35E (Walnut) stocks to make them fit my hands and the re-stain … refinish them to look way better (IMO) than their OEM version.

I’ve put this off for years, but buying materials next week to hopefully ….. unlock the Beech stock refinishing process 🙂.
Click to expand...
Be sure and monitor the progress…having fumed quite a bit of white oak, it’s easy to go overboard, and that color doesn’t wipe off. Good luck. Would love to see some photos of your results. John
 
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JohnTaylor said:
Be sure and monitor the progress…having steamed quite a bit of white oak, it’s easy to go overboard, and that color doesn’t wipe off. Good luck. Would love to see some photos of your results. John
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What does overboard look like…… very dark.
I plan to start with a smaller, Beeman QB79 stock.
 
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SpiralGroove said:
What does overboard look like…… very dark.
I plan to start with a smaller, Beeman QB79 stock.
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Yes VERY dark…not black, but certainly not the look I was expecting. I used the same method..industrial ammonia, a pie plate, and a tent, and a method to hang the pieces from an inconspicuous spot. I just monitored the time more closely….it took less time than I expected. Good luck. John
 
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