FX Tuning styles of Impact M4

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Floridaman2005 said:
For example, I have a 22 caliber compact with a 500 mm barrel and I now get around 125 full power shots that are extremely accurate at any distance. I spent a lot of time properly tuning my gun and testing out all of the different variables that you can change.
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125 full power shots from a compact?
I doubt that very much, what's that i can smell 🐂💩
 
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Daystate22 said:
125 full power shots from a compact?
I doubt that very much, what's that i can smell 🐂💩
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Absolutely true. Shooting 860 fps at 80/120 reg pressures. Get a fork and a knife so you can have a nice big plate of that 🐂 💩

Have you never seen AEAC’s video on Impact tuning? Or his tuning charts? I normally wouldn’t even respond to people like you who are only here to be dicks, but it’s possible to get 130-150 shots on 300cc if you’re not overpowering the gun and shoooting pellets efficiently.

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Itsme Nobody said:
High reg pressure just does things faster, and lower hammer tension and lowered valve just works together. I just noticed that doing the option 2, made my grouping super tight. Shot from tripod tho. POI is because didnt want to zero my scope for 25m.

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I’m just of the school of not running any higher of a reg pressure than needed to acquire the velocity I want. I’m a pellet shooter so there is no circumstance I would run 150 bar operating reg pressure or anywhere close to max hammer so I wouldn’t start there.
 
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Floridaman2005 said:
You can get tight groups using either option, but that doesn’t mean the gun will be accurate at all distances. You still haven’t mentioned what caliber your gun is and what your barrel length is.

Do you have a chronograph? Do you know exactly what speed your gun is shooting at? If you don’t have a chronograph and you are just turning knobs and dials blindly, you will occasionally be accurate. The problem is that you will not be consistent and you will definitely not be efficient on air.

For example, I have a 22 caliber compact with a 500 mm barrel and I now get around 125 full power shots that are extremely accurate at any distance. I spent a lot of time properly tuning my gun and testing out all of the different variables that you can change.

What caliber is your gun? How long is the barrel and what speed and ammo are you shooting?
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Yes I have a chrono xD And either way, or whatever the projectile weight is, does it matter if you get the optimal velocity? You have 500mm barrel and you toss your pellets 860fps, or someone with 800mm and doing the same MUCH more efficient, but same speeds, so how does it change anything what gear you use? The way you tune your gun is anyways the same, but theres options how to do it. I dont even want to start conversation about "you shoot pellets with 800mm?" its just an example.
 
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Trucker3573 said:
I’m just of the school of not running any higher of a reg pressure than needed to acquire the velocity I want. I’m a pellet shooter so there is no circumstance I would run 150 bar operating reg pressure or anywhere close to max hammer so I wouldn’t start there.
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I hear ya, im just wondering do people only tune it by raising the reg pressure until velocties reached or run with higher pressures and lowering hammer and tightening valve to avoid wasting the air.
 
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Itsme Nobody said:
Yes I have a chrono xD And either way, or whatever the projectile weight is, does it matter if you get the optimal velocity? You have 500mm barrel and you toss your pellets 860fps, or someone with 800mm and doing the same MUCH more efficient, but same speeds, so how does it change anything what gear you use? The way you tune your gun is anyways the same, but theres options how to do it. I dont even want to start conversation about "you shoot pellets with 800mm?" its just an example.
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Does it matter if you get optimal velocity? I again don’t know what you are asking. Why would you want anything other than optimal velocity?

I tuned my gun to shoot the pellets I want to shoot at the speeds I want to shoot. How else are you coming up with your “tune”?

My gun shoots my pellets exactly how I want them to shoot. I have a 500mm gun because that’s the length I want to carry. It’s not that complicated. My gun shoots optimally for the ammo that I shoot at the velocity that I tuned it to.

Why would you buy an $1,800 and not tune it optimally? I’m confused on this entire thing. In my opinion there is only one way to tune a gun properly and that’s working from the bottom up slowly and testing and fine tuning and being as efficient as possible. If you aren’t doing that, what are you trying to achieve?
 
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Floridaman2005 said:
I’m confused on this entire thing. In my opinion there is only one way to tune a gun properly and that’s working from the bottom up slowly and testing and fine tuning and being as efficient as possible.
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So, you just ansvered the question basically first time in this whole exchange. You saying you are confused, but ending up to reply the question right in the next sentence. So that is exactly option 1, correct me if im wrong.

I can repeat the topic of the conversation, its the first comment in the first page. Do you prefer using only one way to tune your gun or is there alternative way of doing the same thing? And what are good and bad effects of the options you see there. Is it really that bad using higher reg pressure and less hammer and less valve? Isnt it even better for the regulator so it doesent need to work so hard if you run lets say 120bar?
 
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Itsme Nobody said:
So, you just ansvered the question basically first time in this whole exchange. You saying you are confused, but ending up to reply the question right in the next sentence. So that is exactly option 1, correct me if im wrong.

I can repeat the topic of the conversation, its the first comment in the first page. Do you prefer using only one way to tune your gun or is there alternative way of doing the same thing? And what are good and bad effects of the options you see there. Is it really that bad using higher reg pressure and less hammer and less valve? Isnt it even better for the regulator so it doesent need to work so hard if you run lets say 120bar?
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There must be some sort of language barrier that’s preventing you from fully understanding. What I’m describing to you and what the video from Utah Airgun’s shows is not starting with the hammer cranked all the way up you start with a low hammer and slowly work your way up until you reach peak velocity And then from there you have to determine if the velocity is stable and if that velocity is the velocity that you want and if it’s not then you have to increase your regulator from there. I would never suggest going into a tune with the hammer all the way cranked up to five, which is what you are insinuating from your first option.

I am not going to go through the entire tuning process again and explain this to you any differently than I already have. You STILL haven’t stated what caliber gun you’re using what barrel length you’re using or what grain ammo you’re using. There is no universal answer to this and maybe that’s what you are expecting. Tuning is a process not a formula. It sounds like you just need to do more research and stop asking questions that don’t make sense.

Velocity is not something that you just arbitrarily aim for. You have to explain details about your gun before I can give you any better answers than I already have. Pellets and slugs perform completely differently and will require different tunes. I can’t just tell you what pressure to set your regulator on without knowing anything else about your gun.

I’ve tried explaining to you multiple times that you need to tell us more about your gun. You’re just not understanding.

I shoot 15.89 grain 22 caliber pellets out of my 500 mm barrel. I shoot 50 yards and in and use mine to hunt iguanas. My tune will not work in anyone else’s gun unless they want to shoot exactly the same way that I am shooting your gun will depend entirely on what you are doing with it. I’ve already asked you this and you never respond.

You have to answer these basic questions before you can be helped. I’ve already told you that. If you are shooting a 25 caliber slug and you are trying to be accurate out to 100 yards then that will determine where you start the tuning process I’ve already told you How to do it.
 
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Floridaman2005 said:
There must be some sort of language barrier that’s preventing you from fully understanding. What I’m describing to you and what the video from Utah Airgun’s shows is not starting with the hammer cranked all the way up you start with a low hammer and slowly work your way up until you reach peak velocity And then from there you have to determine if the velocity is stable and if that velocity is the velocity that you want and if it’s not then you have to increase your regulator from there. I would never suggest going into a tune with the hammer all the way cranked up to five, which is what you are insinuating from your first option.

I am not going to go through the entire tuning process again and explain this to you any differently than I already have. You STILL haven’t stated what caliber gun you’re using what barrel length you’re using or what grain ammo you’re using. There is no universal answer to this and maybe that’s what you are expecting. Tuning is a process not a formula. It sounds like you just need to do more research and stop asking questions that don’t make sense.

Velocity is not something that you just arbitrarily aim for. You have to explain details about your gun before I can give you any better answers than I already have. Pellets and slugs perform completely differently and will require different tunes. I can’t just tell you what pressure to set your regulator on without knowing anything else about your gun.

I’ve tried explaining to you multiple times that you need to tell us more about your gun. You’re just not understanding.

I shoot 15.89 grain 22 caliber pellets out of my 500 mm barrel. I shoot 50 yards and in and use mine to hunt iguanas. My tune will not work in anyone else’s gun unless they want to shoot exactly the same way that I am shooting your gun will depend entirely on what you are doing with it. I’ve already asked you this and you never respond.

You have to answer these basic questions before you can be helped. I’ve already told you that. If you are shooting a 25 caliber slug and you are trying to be accurate out to 100 yards then that will determine where you start the tuning process I’ve already told you How to do it.
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I dont know what to say anymore, but maybe it would help if you read the whole conversation from the start.
 
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Itsme Nobody said:
If you read the topic and understood it, Im not looking for advice. Thank you.
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You are a weird dude. Nobody can understand what you are asking. You asked the pros and cons of tuning 2 different ways. One of which isn’t even a way to tune at all…you have no idea what to ask and how to ask it. That’s the real problem.
 
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Floridaman2005 said:
You are a weird dude. Nobody can understand what you are asking. You asked the pros and cons of tuning 2 different ways. One of which isn’t even a way to tune at all…you have no idea what to ask and how to ask it. That’s the real problem.
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Whoa, okay.. :) I bet this is more like ego thing to you now, but whatever. Im pretty sure SOMEBODY will understand, even you say NOBODY will. Thank you, have a nice day. I mean this conversation seems to be a bit off already. You can still check the original message in the beginning.
 
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Itsme Nobody said:
1. Start from low reg and valve open fully, full hammer, find the target velocity by increasing reg pressure, close valve until speed drops. DONE
2. Start 150bar on reg, macro down to target speed, close valve until speed drops. DONE

PRO's and CON's

GO!
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They are both still bad methods.

1, you don’t go full hammer off the rip and find target velocity and close valve til speed drops. That’s not how tuning works. Using that method you would be over hammering the snot out of the gun, and then try to adjust for that by closing the valve? There’s nothing more to say other than the fact that that is an incredibly misguided representation of tuning.

2. You don’t just arbitrarily pick a reg pressure and then macro down to target speed and then close the valve til speed drops. By doing that you will not be at the knee of the tuning curve and you will have very bad consistency issues. This will not be a consistent and accurate tune.

These are both incorrect methods of tuning. I can go back to the beginning but nothing has changed. These are very poor representations of the tuning process.

Your gun will not be efficient on air, you will have no idea why a tune works if it does magically work, and there is more to tuning that finding target velocity.

If you care about tuning, you will tune the way all the videos on YouTube and I and others have explained to you.

Ask better questions.

Ego is hearing adequate explanations and ignoring them completely. I asked you a dozen times more information about your gun, which you never answered. I tried to follow up with every single message you sent. Ego? If only you knew what that really was.
 
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Itsme Nobody said:
1. Start from low reg and valve open fully, full hammer, find the target velocity by increasing reg pressure, close valve until speed drops. DONE
2. Start 150bar on reg, macro down to target speed, close valve until speed drops. DONE

PRO's and CON's

GO!
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Both of these methods are dumb. But if you take “full hammer” out of #1, it’s close. If you want to understand how a gun works and responds to adjustments, you have to start low with the reg and hammer. Then take notes. Dont worry about the valve until all is said and done. I have one slug tune that the valve is wide open. Why? Because my hammer and reg setting for that projectile and barrel must be perfect.
 
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So hammer at 8 (half way) would be optimal with right amount of regulator pressure if you shoot your projectile right velocity, lets say 280m/s? Are you doing something wrong if you end up having hammer 16 and regulator lowest as you can to spit out your projectile same velocity (280m/s) than previous setting with hammer on 8?

Why everyone teaches to start full hammer, or why you see so many tunes using max hammer then if its not good?
 
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Itsme Nobody said:
So hammer at 8 (half way) would be optimal with right amount of regulator pressure if you shoot your projectile right velocity, lets say 280m/s? Are you doing something wrong if you end up having hammer 16 and regulator lowest as you can to spit out your projectile same velocity (280m/s) than previous setting with hammer on 8?

Why everyone teaches to start full hammer, or why you see so many tunes using max hammer then if its not good?
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i usually sit back but there seems to be some confusion between high power tune and low power tune gun settings here
depending on what caliber barrel length and along with what projectile pellet or slug and weight also long-range short range,huntig , plinking?

example target speed 920 shooting 30g slugs
reg 125 power wheel max on 16 micro at 3 valve adjuster 5 lines
start shooting raise your micro adjustment a few clicks at a time you will see your speed increase each round of shots
as you raise the micro adjustment tighter (more spring) there will come a point where you will see your speed flatten out (end of the rainbow)
what do i mean, micro is at 4 your speed is 980 you go 3 more clicks on the micro shoot the gun you will notice it did not pick up much
maybe 2or 3 feet per second 983, at this time go 2 more clicks on the micro shoot it,, you lost 8 feet per second 975
at this point in time your max speed is 980 anymore hammer adjustment is wasting air out the barrel and the gun is loud.
you now found your max speed for that reg pressure, roll the micro back a few clicks back to 980 and leave the micro alone.
target speed is 920 roll the power wheel 2 clicks back shoot the gun at least 8 shots to settle in
your now at 960 example one more click back on the power wheel 952, done
at this time start closing the valve adjuster until you see your speed coming down. (don't care about numbers on the power wheel)
now only turn maybe 1/8 turns closing the valve and shooting at least 5 rounds each adjustment
few more turns al of a sudden the gun is getting quiet you're getting close
now micro adjustments on the valve until you acquire your target speed, you're done.
now you have to find what speed you slugs like and by using the valve adjuster you can raise or lower your speed in 5-10 feet per second increment's
also if you want to record accurate setting measure the micro adjuster with calipers along with the valve adjuster from the back of the knob to the bod of the gun this will give you exact measurements vs 2-1/2 2-1/4 lines im out
 
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Itsme Nobody said:
So hammer at 8 (half way) would be optimal with right amount of regulator pressure if you shoot your projectile right velocity, lets say 280m/s? Are you doing something wrong if you end up having hammer 16 and regulator lowest as you can to spit out your projectile same velocity (280m/s) than previous setting with hammer on 8?

Why everyone teaches to start full hammer, or why you see so many tunes using max hammer then if its not good?
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The answer to your last paragraph is laziness. It’s trying to get where you think you need to go as fast as possible. The problem is you learn nothing along the way. What you learn along the way by working your way up is more than likely a place you will need to return to because your accuracy was better. And it’s in your notes.

If you go straight to 950fps and it took 140b because some Billy Bob said it’s the best, only to find out it’s not. It is nice to have the data about how your gun did at 125-135b on your way up.
 
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