Squirrel hunting preparation advice

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puddleglum

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Apr 26, 2022
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WI, United States
Hello all,

I am settled in at the farm here, and got out to do some deer hunting last fall and I actually got one, which was a nice change of pace, usually I don't see any deer. While I was out there, I saw a lot of fox squirrels. I had seen one or two in the past but was under the impression there were not many. I want to get back there in the fall looking for Stewie, as all squirrels are named, indicating their final destination, but will need a little practice and knowledge before then. My Taipan Short in .25 cal is zipping 25 grain JSBs along at just under 900 fps. I haven't warmed up to the scope that is on there, and I think I am going to put my Westhunter FFP IR 3-12x on it.

What do you experienced squirrel hunters use for a zero? I know shots can vary from quite close to as far as one can responsibly take a shot. Do you zero closer and hold over for longer shots? Zero in the middle and hold over/under as needed?

Do any of you use shooting sticks, or just field positions, sit against/lean on trees, etc?

Any advice on how to get my hold over right when shooting up into the trees? Things you do to practice?

Other advice to a beginner squirrel hunter would be appreciated.

Thank you,
-pg
 
I try to setup a trajectory with a one inch kill zone out to about 40 yards then I don't have to worry much about hold over except at very close range, yeah I've shot under them at less then five yards. Shooting up into trees you don't have to worry about holding under until you reach your highest point in your trajectory, gravity doesn't have as much effect when shooting up. The high scope mounts on most PCP's make getting a good trajectory without sacrificing close range.
 
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I have my PCP's zeroed @ 20yds @ sea level but pest for ground squirrels @:4500ft elevation so my POI changes but I use a ballistic app to compensate for yardages and I use a laser rangefinder and pre scan distances including inclines and declines which my laser rangefinder has built in (it's my golf laser rangefinder). It doesn't matter what distance you have your scope zeroed @ as long as you know your hold overs/unders or click values which the ballistic apps do for you on the reticle.
 
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puddleglum said:
Hello all,

I am settled in at the farm here, and got out to do some deer hunting last fall and I actually got one, which was a nice change of pace, usually I don't see any deer. While I was out there, I saw a lot of fox squirrels. I had seen one or two in the past but was under the impression there were not many. I want to get back there in the fall looking for Stewie, as all squirrels are named, indicating their final destination, but will need a little practice and knowledge before then. My Taipan Short in .25 cal is zipping 25 grain JSBs along at just under 900 fps. I haven't warmed up to the scope that is on there, and I think I am going to put my Westhunter FFP IR 3-12x on it.

What do you experienced squirrel hunters use for a zero? I know shots can vary from quite close to as far as one can responsibly take a shot. Do you zero closer and hold over for longer shots? Zero in the middle and hold over/under as needed?

Do any of you use shooting sticks, or just field positions, sit against/lean on trees, etc?

Any advice on how to get my hold over right when shooting up into the trees? Things you do to practice?

Other advice to a beginner squirrel hunter would be appreciated.

Thank you,
-pg
Click to expand...

@puddleglum The no holdunder zero depends upon your gun/ammo/tune/scope/ring combination. The best advice I’ve received for eliminating holdunder is to zero within 35-40 yards. BUT your desired range is a key factor. I like to hunt squirrels within 30 yards. I think my longest shot on one may have been around 52-55 yards. As for shooting at upward angles, the best advice that I received was to practice by shooting at pinecones in the trees. I encounter a lot more squirrels at less than 10 yard as opposed to long shots because there are so many branches In the way. That’s for gray squirrels that move a lot. I find fox squirrels easier to hunt because they present a larger target and their default defense mechanism is similar to a rabbit’s, they tend to stand still.

i’ve used Trigger sticks bipod and no shooting rest besides my elbow on my knee, laying on my back, or leaning against a tree. It’s easier to move through undergrowth without shooting sticks.
 
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A 40 yard zero distance is great for small game hunting. It gives you a "flat" range of 1" between 15 and 45 yards. Anything over that and it's best to consult the Chairgun App for holdover. Here's the charts for reference, based on the info you gave.
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1000007822.jpg
 
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I would highly recommend a Balistic range finder that also takes angle into account. This takes the guess work out of it in the field. Zero to whatever your heart desires. I have a more closed off shooting area so I zero at 25yards. However a good ballistic range finder that tells you what to dial on the fly is going to make you so much more successful. Especially shooting pellets as they have more of an arc compared to slugs. This is where your ballistic co efficient comes in but we don’t need to get into all that. Get a good ballistic range finder and I always use a rest myself. I’ve got three tripods and a monopod each for different situations, and each with different weights. I do like the idea of those Primos trigger sticks as well. I don’t have those, and would still recommend a bog death grip first if you are looking for a good starter tripod. Does anyone who has the Primos know if you pull the trigger and then the legs come down till they hit the ground? Or does it just open up the bipod or tripod?
 
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Teep said:
I try to setup a trajectory with a one inch kill zone out to about 40 yards then I don't have to worry much about hold over except at very close range, yeah I've shot under them at less then five yards. Shooting up into trees you don't have to worry about holding under until you reach your highest point in your trajectory, gravity doesn't have as much effect when shooting up. The high scope mounts on most PCP's make getting a good trajectory without sacrificing close range.
Click to expand...
I follow the same method.
 
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I zero for no hold under. What that means depends on the pellet, the velocity, and how high the scope is. For most of my guns the zero is at 30 yards but you could also call it 35 yards because it is right there too. That means I can hold without holdover from about 20 to 40 yards. That's most of my shots.

When shooting up into trees you treat it like the horizontal distance. My range finder gives me both. If the actual distance to a squirrel is 37 yards but the distance to the base of the tree it's in is 30, hold for 30. If you are shooting straight up, hold a little under. But that's only for vertical shots.

A 25 grain 25 caliber at 900 fps will knock them flat if you hit it decently. It's really more than you need but if it's accurate it will work great. I usually use 6X to be able it find them quickly.
 
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Chain mail Coif, Pith helmet if you prefer staying light, Doughboy if you're okay with the extra weight. For limb defense, I prefer the Articulated Steel Greaves. DO NOT look them in the eye. the whole horse story with christopher reeves is just a cover for Squirrel Strike. Now, you might think you look ridiculous, but the game warden will respect you, and you'll remain whole.
 
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RabbitofCaerbannog said:
Chain mail Coif, Pith helmet if you prefer staying light, Doughboy if you're okay with the extra weight. For limb defense, I prefer the Articulated Steel Greaves. DO NOT look them in the eye. the whole horse story with christopher reeves is just a cover for Squirrel Strike. Now, you might think you look ridiculous, but the game warden will respect you, but you'll remain whole.
Click to expand...
I think you must be thinking of rabbit hunting: "HE CAN LEAP ABOUT.... LOOK AT THE BONES!"
 
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puddleglum said:
I think you must be thinking of rabbit hunting: "HE CAN LEAP ABOUT.... LOOK AT THE BONES!"
Click to expand...

They never listen to him. He told them.
If you recall, bors had the coif and Templar helmet... Still lost his head! The rabbit teeth are too significant, but the squirrel... Hes not "too beaucoup"
 
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Honestly, the way I get them the most when I'm actually out hunting and not just luring them to a "table of one" type ambush pont. take your time, if you see some active dreys or cavities closely examine every little "ditch" or "nook" whatever you call it between significant branches and the trunk. If you can spot a walnut or pecan or food source tree, just wait it out. They will be moving to and fro for Hours. If you spot movement, but, can't immediately spot just wait. Their tails get them killed often. When calling, I personally use the distress and kuks just as much as each other. They both will get heads popping up almost instantly, but if you wait it out and continue calling they will work your way. One of my favorite activities for sure.
 
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Jman4183 said:
I would highly recommend a Balistic range finder that also takes angle into account. This takes the guess work out of it in the field. Zero to whatever your heart desires. I have a more closed off shooting area so I zero at 25yards. However a good ballistic range finder that tells you what to dial on the fly is going to make you so much more successful. Especially shooting pellets as they have more of an arc compared to slugs. This is where your ballistic co efficient comes in but we don’t need to get into all that. Get a good ballistic range finder and I always use a rest myself. I’ve got three tripods and a monopod each for different situations, and each with different weights. I do like the idea of those Primos trigger sticks as well. I don’t have those, and would still recommend a bog death grip first if you are looking for a good starter tripod. Does anyone who has the Primos know if you pull the trigger and then the legs come down till they hit the ground? Or does it just open up the bipod or tripod?
Click to expand...
The Trigger Sticks only releases the legs to drop, not open the tripod/ bipod. It's more for adjusting the height or tilt once you're set up. I find them no where near as steady as a BOG, but they are more convenient if you want to carry them collapsed.
 
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