Scba tank warning

I wrapped this thing up in a yoga mat for grip and put a big wrench on the flats on the valve. It was still pretty difficult to take off the valve.
Shouldn't be, unless someone seriously screwed up. The seal comes from the O-ring being trapped between two pieces of metal, not excessive torque.

I can drain my SCBA tank and remove my valve with one hand. Easy peasy. And add a dab of silicone oil or grease when I re-install it.
 
Yes....

But resealing and opening can be difficult and in my opinion, that's when damage happens.

I remember a SCBA being held in a vice and you could hear the 'crunch' of the fibers. Destroyed the tank.
Actually, removing a tank valve is easy, if you know how. First drain the tank of all gas. I then raise the forks of my forklift to waist high. I then lay the bottle on a fork so the valve is forward of the fork end and wrap the bottle and fork tightly with a cargo strap. This secures the bottle without any damage to the bottle. I then use a very large crescent adjustable type wrench or a very large pipe wrench depending on the valve style and turn. If you don't happen to have a forklift, any tree or lamp post works just as well. On a second note, those short tubes are used to prevent condensate water from being inadvertently breathed and they are usually just pressed in and can be simply pulled out with pliers. Removing those tubes also allows you to turn the bottle upside down and then by just cracking the valve open can easily drain any condensate in the bottle without emptying all the air first.
 
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Typically, a sharp blow with a mallet and wrench is all it takes, it’s usually Just the stiction of the large o-ring that needs to be broken loose.
A rubber mallet is your friend. I warm the neck of the bottle with a hair dryer for about 10 - 15 minutes . Then a careful tap or two from the mallet and you're home free. I have removed many SCBA valves this way and when I replace the valve (with a new o-ring) , I tighten hand tight , then use the rubber mallet again to set the valve and o-ring. Works like a charm , no heavy equipment needed.
 
You're right, CF doesn't share the same characteristics of metal. Metal work fatigues where CF doesn't. When a tank liner is wrapped there's uneven tension as the tow unwinds from it's spool. The tighter ones will be loaded closer to failure than the rest. Remember, a tow can have 3k to 12k strands and that tow will only be about the width of a kite string or just a little larger. I've tested thousands of CF uni directional tensiles and they all popped and ping way before failure and they're only about.040 thick and.500 wide. They also would take between 5k and 8k lbs of load before breaking.

Oh, I forgot to say I cut that straw piece off of my scba tank valves so I can blow out any collected water.
What's that straw piece even for on an air tank? Usually they are fill limits for tanks that hold liquids, to leave room for expansion in the heat. Not that liquids expand, but the air expands and if there's not enough space, the prv/t&p will blow. ..or to leave enough room to add compressed air/gas with which to expel the liquid when needed.

I don't understand what purpose it serves in an air tank. Are these tanks used to hold fire extinguishing agents also? ..like either/or. I would assume they wouldn't use the same valve if they did. ..unless firefighters are above and beyond suffering any consequences of human error

Oh wait. These tanks are used upside down with regulators. The tube probably serves as a condensation trap, not letting any liquid enter the regulator, or at least minimizing it. I think at the pressure we require, it wouldn't matter whether there's a dip tube or not, so yea, I'm with you. I'll be cutting mine down too. All this to say, thanks for the tip. 😁
 
Typically, a sharp blow with a mallet and wrench is all it takes, it’s usually Just the stiction of the large o-ring that needs to be broken loose.
"Stiction." That's an awesome word!
I was having a helluva time with mine. I was trying to be kind to the aluminum valve body, so I used a Spud Wrench on the only 2 flats it fit on, and I still managed to mar the valve at the blast disk port.

Then the old lesson I've learned time and time again, when I get to the same stage of the problem of trying to loosen overtightened fittings and fasteners. That is to try to tighten it first. Even if it doesn't budge, it still seems to work against the stiction of the fitment. After I tightened it, it came loose without anymore issues..
 
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What's that straw piece even for on an air tank? Usually they are fill limits for tanks that hold liquids, to leave room for expansion in the heat. Not that liquids expand, but the air expands and if there's not enough space, the prv/t&p will blow. ..or to leave enough room to add compressed air/gas with which to expel the liquid when needed.

I don't understand what purpose it serves in an air tank. Are these tanks used to hold fire extinguishing agents also? ..like either/or. I would assume they wouldn't use the same valve if they did. ..unless firefighters are above and beyond suffering any consequences of human error

Oh wait. These tanks are used upside down with regulators. The tube probably serves as a condensation trap, not letting any liquid enter the regulator, or at least minimizing it. I think at the pressure we require, it wouldn't matter whether there's a dip tube or not, so yea, I'm with you. I'll be cutting mine down too. All this to say, thanks for the tip. 😁
In CO2 tanks a 'siphon tube' is inserted into the valve to pull the liquid CO2 from the bottom of the tank. Since these tanks are used upside down, it would probably have the opposite effect. To keep the firefighter from breathing in any possible moisture?
 
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In CO2 tanks a 'siphon tube' is inserted into the valve to pull the liquid CO2 from the bottom of the tank. Since these tanks are used upside down, it would probably have the opposite effect. To keep the firefighter from breathing in any possible moisture?
You're probably talking about a dip tube to goes to the very bottom, like in a can of spray paint, right? The tube in these things only goes a couple inches, like in a propane valve. But yeah the reason is probably is still the same, to keep them from breathing moisture.
 
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