That seems a tiny bit over kill, I've got a 032 with a 3 fan pc radiator and it works fine, next I'm going to try distilled water and water wetter and see if there is a difference but right now I'm not having any issues with heat.
Upvote 0
Tuxing Compressors
- Thread starter Kenney1124
- Start date
Price check. Direct from Tuxing, the TXEDM042 is $550 right now. The TXEDT032, same compressor with the integrated liquid cooling system is $799. Still a little bit more expensive then the cost of the 42 + $200, but a complete working out of the box solution. But damn, you will not get any thermal issues with this radiator for sure!
Upvote 0
I’m considering buying one - looks like $430 direct from Tuxing, $500 from Amazon. Mixed reviews on Amazon. How are your compressors holding up?
Upvote 0
Hit and miss. Typical chinese assemble and shipping problems. If you are mechanical probably fine. After my last rebuild txedt32 working well enough. Tuxing has been sending the wrong parts for the rebuild. Looks like they are focused on supporting the 1500 scuba compressor.
Upvote 0
The barbed ports you hook your tubing to for the cooling water supply and return are the smallest orifices the cooling water has to pass through. It's not a very intricate cooling system
Upvote 0
You could have done pretty well just by replacing the pump with one that will overcome more head pressure and have the return water drop into the reservoir. That drop Will cool it off significantly. I've got one of those Canvas Bag camping showers hanging above my cooling water reservoir and I pump my return water into it and it sprinkles out of the camping shower back into the bucket, keeping everything nice and cool. I also run a pump for each head. They're just those little pond pumps, a little bigger than the one it came with.
What is water wetter? I'm assuming it's a surfactant of some sort? I use concentrated surfactant that I think it's meant for ponds or something like that. It's also meant to be mixed with weed killer so it penetrates the leaves better.. I add a couple squirts of it in the water to break the surface tension. I also run an upgraded water pump that can handle a little bit more head pressure to each head and pipe the return lines so that dump into a shower bag that's suspended above the water reservoir so that it sprinkles back down and cools off along the way. The pumps are aquarium grade and quite affordable. There's really not much to the cooling system. There's nothing inside those water jackets. The smallest orifice the water passes through are those barbed ports you hook it up to
Upvote 0
I see you used Fernco boots for the radiator to PVC connections. What exactly are the PVC connections you have used to thread the smaller diameter nipples in to? Just got my Tuxing today and need to start getting it together.
Upvote 0
I see you used Fernco boots for the radiator to PVC connections. What exactly are the PVC connections you have used to thread the smaller diameter nipples in to? Just got my Tuxing today and need to start getting it together. First time posting on this forum>>>> Things are a tad goofy for an old fart used to the Network 54 Yellow.
Upvote 0
I did a pretty neat cooling install using a small radiator and fans meant for computers. Very compact and self-contained. Give me a couple of days, I’ll post pics and a parts list.
Matt
Matt
Upvote 0
A little off topic from the cooling stuff, i have a 42 that take quite a bit of time to fill up a 2.5l tank. At first it wouldnt fill past 2k, found a leak in the line where it screws into filter. They put an o-ring instead of the gasket and the oring was crushed out. Replaced it with gasket and now can fill to 3k, but from 3000 to 3500 almost wont make it. Keeps tripping breaker on the unit. Any ideas on what it can be. There are no leaks when i dead head the compressor. And i can dead head the tank and no leaks from there either. This is a new unit. Just got it on thursday.
Upvote 0
House voltage ok to the unit? Low voltage from outlet would cause amperage in compressor to rise above internal breakers rating. Just one possible
Upvote 0
Yes. Mine is set at around 5,100 psi. Just turn in the adjustable PRV it came with. Tighten it about one full rotation and set the pressure stop at whatever pressure. When the compressor shuts off, back the PRV off until it starts to bleed out. Then tighten it back until it stops bleeding. Done.
Beware, this will probably void the warranty and put more stress on the seals and rings.. the danger is in the vessel you're filling. There's nowhere else in the system that can have a catastrophic failure. ..probably burst a line
Upvote 0
here's my setup:
Parts list (not listed is a few odds 'n ends like screws, seals-all for the tank, etc.)
I've also made some 3d parts for mounting the radiator, pump, etc - Pump mount uses one of the chassis feet bolts, printed of TPU. the rest straight PLA
I still need to finalize a mounting solution for the power supply.
I essentially stole the power from the 110v outlet on the back of the unit, ran it through the second switch up top, and then feed the power supply, which is hard wired to supply the fans and circulator pump.
while it hasn't been particularly warm out by any means, the compressor tops out at ~105f on a 6.8l top up, gets to about 118f if I run it for 1/2 hour filling multiple tanks. The water in the system never gets remotely warm.....I've got 1 gallon of distilled water with a bottle of water wetter in it in the system
I also moved the filter towers outward ~ 1", it gets them out from under the top so you can remove them (stupid original design), incorporated quick disconnects up top as per another thread here, and added a 1/4" spacer & longer bolts between the towers - that way i can get a strap wrench on the towers - I was just LOVING wrenching off the top, only to have the cylinder stuck hard on the bottom with nothing to grab onto.....
Matt
View attachment tuxing parts.zip
Parts list (not listed is a few odds 'n ends like screws, seals-all for the tank, etc.)
| part | link | count | price |
| switches | 1 | 8.5 | |
| pump | 1 | 20 | |
| radiator | 1 | 53 | |
| fans | 1 | 10 | |
| guards | 1 | 6.5 | |
| tube | 1 | 15 | |
| tank | https://www.walmart.com/ip/5L-Plastic-Fuel-Oil-Tank-Kit-for-Car-Truck-Air-Diesel-Parking-Heater/ 15283301869?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=102498292&adid=22222222222000000000&wmlspartner =wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=s&wl2=c&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=15283301869_10002517649&wl14= 5L%20Plastic%20Air%20Parking%20Heater%20Fuel%20Tank%202%20Hole%20Oil%20Storage&veh=sem&msclkid= 2ed17999833d1b8fa7601e6cb1227c46&gclsrc=ds | 1 | 18 |
| tank fittings | |||
| power supply | 1 | 10 | |
| aluminium angle 1/2 x 1/2 | lowes | 10 | |
| Total | 151 |
I've also made some 3d parts for mounting the radiator, pump, etc - Pump mount uses one of the chassis feet bolts, printed of TPU. the rest straight PLA
I still need to finalize a mounting solution for the power supply.
I essentially stole the power from the 110v outlet on the back of the unit, ran it through the second switch up top, and then feed the power supply, which is hard wired to supply the fans and circulator pump.
while it hasn't been particularly warm out by any means, the compressor tops out at ~105f on a 6.8l top up, gets to about 118f if I run it for 1/2 hour filling multiple tanks. The water in the system never gets remotely warm.....I've got 1 gallon of distilled water with a bottle of water wetter in it in the system
I also moved the filter towers outward ~ 1", it gets them out from under the top so you can remove them (stupid original design), incorporated quick disconnects up top as per another thread here, and added a 1/4" spacer & longer bolts between the towers - that way i can get a strap wrench on the towers - I was just LOVING wrenching off the top, only to have the cylinder stuck hard on the bottom with nothing to grab onto.....
Matt
View attachment tuxing parts.zip
Last edited:
Upvote 0
I changed it out only a few tanks ago, at 10 hrs. The old was fairly grungy…..I’m using seco synthetic, which is clear to begin with. I did a first change at 1 hour, to get the worst crap out from initial break-in, then again at 5 hrs. I’ll let it go for another 10 this time.
Matt
Matt
Upvote 0