Favorite scope??

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Well that is a loaded question. Favorite scope is a nightforce. Favorite scope I put on an air rifle is the swfa ss fixed 12x42 mil quad reticle. Right now I am really loving the Vortex 2.5X10X32 FFP with the EBR-1 MOA/ MOA reticle. What I have found is living in So Cal the higher power magnification is pretty much useless because of mirage. Since I hunt 10-12X magnification is all I need. FYI the Vortex will parallax down to 10 yards.
 
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my favorite scope so far is my aeon 6-24x50 with FT reticule. Just under $300. Before that was my hawke SF30 because I got a brand new $300 cope for $135 at an auction, but the AO wheel started acting up and it's been sent back for repair/replacement. They are both crisp and clear out to 75yards at 12X and range accurately out to 40 or so yard at that mag. I can't speak to clicking for range as I use holdover.
 
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In the scope world parallax can mean two things, the focus of the object at a given distance and the angle of the object in comparison of the viewer's angle. When shooters talk about parallax adjustment they are talking about focusing the scope at the range you are trying to shoot. Parallax error is moving the angle of your eye in relation to the crosshairs and the object down range. Parallax error is the shooter's fault.

There are some things I think are important so in order to help you I'll present them to you so you may make your own mind up. First off a scope for hunting is way different than one for target shooting. In order to truly help you we need to know what the end use. There are two basic choices for type of scope. MIL (MRAD) and MOA. The difference is simple Both MRAD (also called mil-radian) and MOA are angular measurements based off a circle. They are fractions of a 360 degree circle. 1 Mil = 1/1000th of 3600 inches which is 3.6 inches or 100 yards Most MRAD/Mil scopes are .1mil per click. Mils happened in the military because of artillery. In WWI the powers that be decided that mils were the best way to figure the shot, and shortly after most countries, including the United States adopted the “Military Mil” which is rounded to 6400. This is why mils are included on the lensatic compass, to adjust for artillery. MOA on the other hand is 1 MOA = 1.047” @ 100 yards 2.094” @ 200 yards 5.235”@ 500 yards and so on. So with a MRAD turret you will get a base 10 system that will equal 3.6" per 10 clicks at 100 yards. Because it is a base 10 system it is easier to use. The MOA scope will most likely be on a base 4 because most scopes are set a .25 MOA per click so you will see 4 clicks per every 1 MOA which will equal 1.047" @100 yards. This means that you will move the reticle more per spin on the MRAD scope but at the cost of slightly less precision. (not true on all scopes, but let's stick with your price range) 

So what is important to me? First off the turret and reticle must match. It is a total PITA to have a mil-dot and MOA turret. I either want a MIL/MIL or MOA/MOA scope. There is no calculation for ranging and the drops will match. I must have target turrets that have a super positive click. The turrets must return to zero. I must have a thin reticle that has a lot of option for drop on the reticle for holdover. At least 150 yards. I use both MOA and MRAD and I like the MRAD because it's a base ten system. It is easy to count when spinning the turret. Plus the MRAD scope will usually have more range built into the scope. I want clear glass and parallax/focus that will go from 10 yards to infinity. So at your price range you gave I think you should buy a SWFA super sniper FIXED power scope. Get the 12X42 model with the MIL-Quad reticle.

Here's a good review of the SWFA SS


Here is an idea of a .25 cal EDgun shooting JSB @ 930 FPS with a SWFA SS Mil-quad



Here is the same gun with the Hawke 1/2 MIL 20X Keep in mind that the turret is .25 MOA so the reticle and turret are used independently 


Here is a .25 Vulcan with a MIL/MIL reticle also shooting at 930 the grey numbers are Mil Radians 


Here is a .25 caliber @940 with a MOA/MOA scope the numbers in grey are MOA



As you can see choosing the right reticle for the intended use is one of the most important factors to consider.
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Just my 2 cents for all it's worth. I am a beginner like you with this sport. It is obvious that Keysesoze is a true source of knowledge. I have tagged his post. I have purchased a .22 Cricket Carbine and a 6-24 x 50 Aeon scope. I think both the rifle and scope will allow me to become proficient in shooting. I can have the rifle tuned to improve accuracy and the Aeon scope has placed well in the AOA benchrest competition. Once I feel confident in my abilities and learn more about windage, parallax, holdover, distance shots, I can make a more educated decision as to which direction I will take the sport, be it hunting or competitive shooting. I may choose to stay with these purchases or attempt to explore my options to improve my skills. I plan to shoot my cricket with the Aeon scope in a competion one day! With experience comes wisdom.
I beleive you are agonizing over making a mistake instead of savoring the process. I spent nearly six months going from AOA's wesite, to Wild West, to Top gun, to TopAirgun, Pyramid,…… you get the picture and enjoyed every minute. I loved to understand the differences in the guns. Eventually I had to "pull the trigger". Unforntunately, like me, the only way you will get experience is to start shooting. Although I really wanted the Bobcat and Hawke scope, I really didn't know I would like shooting ( think I have told you this before). I was buying my son a gun as well and wanted to keep my cost under 3k. I think you stated you have a Marauder already so go ahead and spend the money and get the Bobcat with the Hawke scope. That in itself will not make you a great shot, shooting will. If you are still unsure what to purchase, just stay there and let your mind explore the options. In the end, you will NOT make a mistake.
As a side note, instead of going all in you might want to consider taking a smaller step up and looking at the FX t12 400 (with the Hawke scope), or the FX Royals 400 or 500 which come with an FX scope for free. All of these options would deliver great accuracy to 100 yards. The Daystate Regal also is an excellent choice. These options would allow you to "move up" in your equipment, keep your costs down, and become a more proficient shooter. All of these rifles have done well in shooting competions. Most of the shooters on this forum have more than 1 rifle. I will be making my 3rd next month. Never thought I would own an air pistol but couldn't pass on a custom Falcon FN8. If you have friends that you would like to introduce to airguns what better way than to have several guns on hand. The good news is all of the Crickets, Daystate, Fx, and AA guns shoot great ( sounds like the Vulcan does well too)! There are very little complaints for a Hawke, Vortex, MTC, FX, or Aeon scope. So in the end, I think you will do well.
 
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"keysersoze"In the scope world parallax can mean two things, the focus of the object at a given distance and the angle of the object in comparison of the viewer's angle. When shooters talk about parallax adjustment they are talking about focusing the scope at the range you are trying to shoot. Parallax error is moving the angle of your eye in relation to the crosshairs and the object down range. Parallax error is the shooter's fault.

There are some things I think are important so in order to help you I'll present them to you so you may make your own mind up. First off a scope for hunting is way different than one for target shooting. In order to truly help you we need to know what the end use. There are two basic choices for type of scope. MIL (MRAD) and MOA. The difference is simple Both MRAD (also called mil-radian) and MOA are angular measurements based off a circle. They are fractions of a 360 degree circle. 1 Mil = 1/1000th of 3600 inches which is 3.6 inches or 100 yards Most MRAD/Mil scopes are .1mil per click. Mils happened in the military because of artillery. In WWI the powers that be decided that mils were the best way to figure the shot, and shortly after most countries, including the United States adopted the “Military Mil” which is rounded to 6400. This is why mils are included on the lensatic compass, to adjust for artillery. MOA on the other hand is 1 MOA = 1.047” @ 100 yards 2.094” @ 200 yards 5.235”@ 500 yards and so on. So with a MRAD turret you will get a base 10 system that will equal 3.6" per 10 clicks at 100 yards. Because it is a base 10 system it is easier to use. The MOA scope will most likely be on a base 4 because most scopes are set a .25 MOA per click so you will see 4 clicks per every 1 MOA which will equal 1.047" @100 yards. This means that you will move the reticle more per spin on the MRAD scope but at the cost of slightly less precision. (not true on all scopes, but let's stick with your price range) 

So what is important to me? First off the turret and reticle must match. It is a total PITA to have a mil-dot and MOA turret. I either want a MIL/MIL or MOA/MOA scope. There is no calculation for ranging and the drops will match. I must have target turrets that have a super positive click. The turrets must return to zero. I must have a thin reticle that has a lot of option for drop on the reticle for holdover. At least 150 yards. I use both MOA and MRAD and I like the MRAD because it's a base ten system. It is easy to count when spinning the turret. Plus the MRAD scope will usually have more range built into the scope. I want clear glass and parallax/focus that will go from 10 yards to infinity. So at your price range you gave I think you should buy a SWFA super sniper FIXED power scope. Get the 12X42 model with the MIL-Quad reticle.

Here's a good review of the SWFA SS

Here is an idea of a .25 cal EDgun shooting JSB @ 930 FPS with a SWFA SS Mil-quad



Here is the same gun with the Hawke 1/2 MIL 20X Keep in mind that the turret is .25 MOA so the reticle and turret are used independently 


Here is a .25 Vulcan with a MIL/MIL reticle also shooting at 930 the grey numbers are Mil Radians 


Here is a .25 caliber @940 with a MOA/MOA scope the numbers in grey are MOA



As you can see choosing the right reticle for the intended use is one of the most important factors to consider.
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Nice contribution. I bookmarked this topic for future reference. Thanks
 
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My favourite scopes, for airguns, are:

Falcon 4-14x44 First Focal Plane, Mil turrets and Mil B20 Reticle, for longer distances. Great specification for the money. I now own five Falcon scopes, though had to return one that I bought cheap second hand, but have experienced no actual problems with those bought new; and neither have the others I know who also use them for centrefire. Turret tracking works. Sold all the Hawke Sidewinders after I started using a Falcon scope.

For short distance airgun shooting to max 50 yards, on a light rifle, I use a simple Hawke 4x32 with simple cross hairs….which although has inaccurate turret movements as is invariably the case with that make…this one has never lost a stabilised zero. Such small, light, good exit pupil size, low magnification scopes are often overlooked by airgun shooters. Tracking squirrels etc at short range is far easier with a low mag scope.

I could rant for ever and a day about scopes, or more specifically the “BRAND names/manufacturers”.


Missing from the above posts is a fundamental factor about scopes, which is whether they are Second Focal Plane (SFP) or First Focal Plane (FFP).In brief practical terms, if the reticle is to the rear of the scope then it is a SFP scope and if the reticle is to the front then it is FFP. The significant difference between the two positions for shooters is that a reticle on a SFP scope will stay the same size regardless of the magnification setting, and with a FFP scope the reticle will change size according to the magnification setting. Most people, used to SFP scopes, will think why on earth would I want the reticle to change size…which can be harder to see? If shooting at short distances, quick squirrels etc, or at night then I would agree. I want an easily seen bold crosshair. However, one feature of a FFP scope’s reticle is that it changes size according to the magnification setting and therefore allows the shooter to quickly range targets and shots; because the target remains proportional to the reticle…..regardless of magnification.On a SFP scope, using the Mil reticle system invariably included in them, to range you have to set/calibrate the magnification to your chosen setting which, unless you like to make life complicated, means setting magnification at either 10x or 20x (or another mag setting, depending upon the range you want to calibrate the mildots to).

In Ted’s ranging video (SFP scope, mixed turret/reticle) he had to first calibrate/fix his magnification setting. If the magnification changes, his ranging ability is off/gone.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9X3SLslalJE

In this video, Ted ranges easily with a FFP scope (MOA Turrets and MOA dot reticle; not the MILDOT/MRAD system)


A fixed 45 magnification, in fact as high as you can get away with in regard to control of focus, for target shooting/precise ranging sounds good to me. For fixed targets, such as benchrest, so many advantages, including value for money, than using a SFP high variable mag scope.

For the sake of simplicity and timeliness I use centimetres and metres with MRAD, inches with MOA.

I am somewhat puzzled by the idea of having a mildot (say…base 10) scope with fixed magnification of 12 (base …12), as such would make life unnecessarily complicated in terms of always introducing an extra step of maths for ranging. Magnification multiples of 10 I understand with MRAD.

I remember Bullet Drop Compensators and mildot reticles on airgun scopes coming to the fore in the early 1990’s, as a cheap marketing gimmick. In my opinion, any company that produces scopes in mixed MIL/MOA systems should be shot into outer space…..having no credibility…..especially when it comes to use on centre-fire rifles and even longer distances. Would they buy a car that gave speed in MPH and fuel economy figures in gallons per kilometre? Would they set their speedometer etc to Km when the signs along the road were in miles? Software can patch up the gap in manufacturers scope “system”, but surely it is better to be honest and design decent products from the start.

Turret design is another problem. More than one “leading” airgun scope manufacturer have terrible target turrets, in which you don’t know which revolution you’re on, though that often doesn’t actually matter with them because the tracking doesn’t work….as is the case with most airgun scopes.

There is no perfect scope, not even a S&B PMII, so the reality is that …. The decision to buy any scope must be a balance between cost and benefits. A $500 scope may have above average lenses, and may be fully coated (fully coated with what?!), but unless the complete package works properly and balanced then what is the point in it? Each high magnification scope is, in my experience, slightly different so you have to practise and learn the focussing/parallax distances/light issues with it. I’ve had different issues with a S&B PMII than with a Falcon or Hawke. ​I can't agree that certain scopes must be good because companies supposedly have few scope returns. A few of the common brands of airgun scopes produce a lot of junk at the lower end; with some exceptions. Many problems are to do with their manufacturer, the standard/quality of parts/manufacture of what is often a complex item for comparatively little money, many problems are with the users….though would the users have so many problems if the manufacturers had decent manuals!?

I suggest the following videos as a BASIS for learning about scopes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytOLj8hYqAg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5to0loGVzU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgB22aXbbeI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53LTp4prwkY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wBr_brpSYk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX3hLSI59ko
 
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"A Mil-radian has nothing to do with the metric system."

I was aware of that fact. However, I find that it is easier to work with the system of measurement that blends more numerically closer (for quick and easy maths) to each angular system. I would not convert 1 mil to 9.14cm for 100 yards, but just use .9 mil at 91.14 metres. Neither would I want to trip up on maths with either the .047 of a MOA at 100 yards, the extra element of MOA at "109" yards/100metres, or the 8.86 yards short of 100 metres. (My mind is starting to numb at the conversions/maths now)

I noted that you also see matching reticle and turret systems as a necessity. If we got even that alone changed, we would be well on the way to improving most shooters potential to hit targets.
 
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I appreciate what all of you have posted and I think it is extremely important and informative. I am just a beginner at this sport and I think it is way too much information for a Newbie. I have read the posts twice but until I have the scopes in hand, I don't think I will be able to apply what all of you have given at this time. Meaning you have to have Algerbra before you take Geometry. I, most certainly, will be coming back to these posts when I can fully understand and appreciate the wisdom given.

To help Pshooter out and other guy just starting out, would you reccomend buying the best scope/gun money can buy (so to speak) or ease into it buying a $200-300 dollar scope and an entry or mid-level gun? If you were back in our shoes again, what would all of you do?
 
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My favorite scope is my March tactical 2.5-25x42 MML. Compact, very light and outstanding optics with milbased reticle and turrets. 10 y to inf parallax. One turn on the elevation gives 10 mils. 

Another favorite is the clearidge 3-9x32 mildot. Weights like nothing and has superp optics and low light capabillities concidering its size 
 
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